Compression on the tighter end of the scale, rebound on the looser side to start...assuming your referring to rear shock settings.

Be prepared to tighten the front shock rebound as the car will like to wheel stand more on radials.

 

I'll update everyone on what I find that works after testing this Sunday. If I find what works lol

There's lots of good info in this thread (the basic idea)as i look around in here if you can read between the lines and see the gray area in the info for instance post #2 rebound needs to be set on the loose side, of course this depends on your valving and it's bleed characteristic. The other part of that post has become standard depending a lot on conditions (track, weather) and front to back weight percentages but over all is spot on info (tighten front dampening, limit travel). 68bird's post #35 can't be under estimated as a damn good hint and he's halled ass on what your switching too. The general idea is here looks like. Good luck with it on the track!

 

Thanks for the reply. Yes talking about rear shock settings.

 

How much ft travel you guys running

 

I run full front end travel, and use the front shock to control the rate of extension on the front.

Now in the rear I still use a leaf spring, so I don't know if my setup would equate to a ladder bar or not. But in my particular setup the rear rebound side is dramatically tighter than the compression side. The more power I throw at it early, the tighter I make the rebound side of the shock. On a stock valving I ran out of rebound adjustment on QA1 doubles. Sent them in and had them revalved and got about half of that adjustment back afterwards. I will try these shocks with the new combo, but will probably end up with either a Menscer or a Santhuff X shock out back.

 

I run 3" travel and control the wheelie with the Santhuff front shocks.

 

Thanks for your opinions guy. Geeze the more I read the more different opinions I get. 50% are saying tight on compression loose on extintion, wile the other 50% say the opposite. I know ladder bars separate not squat so still 100% sure.

 

It all depends on where your I/C is in relation to your C/G. If the car squats during launch you'll want tight compression, if the rear suspension extends during launch you'll want a tighter extension.

 

From my understanding the radial cars love to separate on the launch whereas slick cars love to compress on the launch. With that being said, I would think you would want very tight extension to slow the separation down.

 

From my understanding the radial cars love to separate on the launch whereas slick cars love to compress on the launch. With that being said, I would think you would want very tight extension to slow the separation down.

That is exactly the case with leaf springs anyway.

 

Where are your ladder bars set now? Angle on bottom bar?

That new Hyperformance wing looks good on there too man!

 

Tim Rigby's vette squatted and we went a 1.12 or .13 60' on a 275 with a true 23* sbc on the 275.

 

That's cant be true, 275 cars don't squat.

Guys, same rule applies that I mentioned earlier, if you're going to tighten one side of the shock to hit the tire harder you have to tighten the compression if the car squats and tighten the extension if the car separates. This is a pretty basic statement for a basic question that the OP asked. Yes there is plenty of fine tuning and every car responds differently to change but that is the basic knowledge of what to do.

 

Give us a call at the shop 910 491 2798. We would be happy to discuss your combo and options.

 

Thanks for offering your time Mark I'll give you a call tomorrow.

 

I know enough to know ladder bar suspension separates not squats. And we're talking just later bars with radials here. Ladder bars are in the bottom hole right now I don't know the exact * but the are down maybe 2-4*. Worked great with the 29, 1.26 60's with the back tires. With the ft end about 12" off the ground.

 

Are you planning on leaving the ride height as it is now (as it was with the slick) when you get the new tire on?

 

Pickup point looks low in the picture, I could be seeing it wrong. Also looks like you have a another hole located above the current being used.

Nice car, good luck with the new tires.

 

Yea pick up point is in the very bottom hole.

 

You have a (faster reacting, hole above) option

 

I see you skinny

 

I'd give mark a call!

 

I'm going to. I'm just trying to get a good starting point going into testing Sunday at hardensbrug. Trying to understand and get as much good information as I can wile weeding through the bad info. I know it all takes some tweaking.

 

Yep. Unless I'm told and given a good explanation on why I wo want to change it. First time out on this type of tire

 

I get it, reason I asked is because as I'm sure you're aware when/ if you lower the car it changes the height of the pick up point. Most lower their cars a little for the little tire for the sake of appearance. In your case this would lower your pickup point even further however you have an optional hole to fix this. The thing is with this tire to keep in mind is it's like a stone, no sidewall to wind. With a low pickup point you're asking a sidewall you no longer have to do a lot.

Also with the front end a foot in the air your suspension has little to do with applying the tire to the track, not to mention the stone will make events happen much faster as well as sooner being there is no sidewall to wind. Just my two cents.

 

whos CF wing is that ??? carry on...

 

http://hyperformanceracing.com/product.asp?pid=CFFC6768S

 

Hypreformance motosports

 

I see what your saying (I think). The car is/was already as low as it would go with these shocks/springs if I were to change It at all it would be to raise it, which would make the bottom bar have less of a angle

 

You're also automatically lowering the car 1/2" due to the tire diameter change. I might be wrong but I don't think 2-4* down is where you'll want to be for best results.

 

message sent to Harper 68.

 

Send me the message too. I'm always learning. I've been low teen 60's on the 275's with ladder bars and QA1's, best being a 1.11 60'. I'm still trying to learn how to go 1.0x 60's. I have the HP.

 

That's badass!
Can you tell us a little more?

Was that with double adjustable qa1 shocks on the front and back?
Also were the qa1 revalved?

 

keep us informed on how ya make out. I too could use as much help as I can get. I will also be changing to the pro's this season

 

I'll update everyone on what I find that works after testing this Sunday. If I find what works lol

 

Maybe on a fly paper track will a car work if it squats on 275's....just my experience...the trick is being able to still 60 within a couple hundreths of your best when it's july and the track temp is 120*

 

200 ft wheel stands, are not the hot ticket, they're hard on oil pans.