I copied this from another thread I replied to.

Re: Internal engine rust
I run out the methanol.
Put gas in the fuel cell mixed with 2 cycle oil (heavy) and as the engine is about to run out of the mix, I squirt gas and REALLY heavy 2 cycle oil into the hat and let it die.

Then, I put plastic over the hat opening and, duct tape it so it's completely sealed off.
My car has side exit exhaust, I put plastic over the openings, duct tape so sealed off.
Duct tape over the valve cover breather's, done deal.....

No air flow, no condensation.

Jim

 

Perfectly normal for a fogged motor to smoke until fogging oil consumed.

 

Yeah i hear ya there on the smoking. Just looked like this stuff reacted with the carbon, race gas, or something. I just had the plugs hand tight, maybe better to make sure they are sealed tight next time. I know its more of a slime than oil per say, but i am thinking this stuff just got too hard and stuck some rings. I am wondering if stuck rings could make a piston slap fairly loud though? Both breathers were pumping smoke and oil out as well. In hindsight i should of shot some wd-40 down first before starting.

 

WD-40 is not what I would use It IS NOT a lubricant. Simple good motor oil or 2 stroke oil.

 

Try Yamaha stor-rite fogging oil its designed for harsh environments and areas. Works well for storage.

 

What about running normal fuel (gas) in a mechanical injection setup to rid the fuel system of methanol?

 

No methanol. Would have been a mix of sunoco 112 and whatever else i topped it off with at the track, cant remeber exactly. I like the motor oil and yamaha lube suggestions.

 

Spraying it through the spark plug holes is not the way to fog an engine. It has to be running and you fog it until it almost stalls then throw a big rag over the carb to stall it. That way it coats the intake, valves and cylinders. Been doing it for years on the boat engines. Never had a problem.

 

this is correct

 

Here's a thread that was started over in the NA section.
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=267659

 

I run E85 and use the Stabil fog. The engine will actually run on the fog stuff.

What I do is turn the pump off and wait till it starts to run out of fuel. Just as it starts to die I start spraying down all 4 barrels. The engine will continue to run until you stop spraying. Plus are always coated with a nice oil film.

I don't see how the plugs would have got any fog oil on them since you obviously had them out to spray in the holes ? Directions say to fog through the carb as the engine dies then remove plug and spray cylinder. I've found my routine works OK and is very simple. I do it any time the engine will be dormant more than a day.

 

I pull the plugs and carburetor and spray straight down the ports while spinning the engine over with the starter until it starts shooting mist out the plug holes. Amsoil fog. no problems. I wasn't aware of the proper procedure, but I will stick to what I been doing.

 

The phosphorous and bromine lead scavengers in leaded fuel make deposits that look like rust. Those big orange-red ladybug wing looking bubbles on sparkplugs, in exhaust ports & headers and in combustion chambers, are from that fuel additive. Looks ugly but is relatively harmless, it will go away when you run the engine the next time.

This qoute was from yeti in the rust prevention thread. This is probably the crap i saw on the plugs.

 

When tetraethyl lead (TEL) burns, one of the products is lead oxide (PbO), which melts at 1630°F. This would form deposits on the valves, combustion chambers, piston tops, and cylinder walls, so they have to get rid of it somehow. They add 1,2-dibromoethane along with the TEL to turn the PbO into lead bromide (PbBr2), which melts at a much lower 699.1°F, so it doesn't deposit to nearly the extent that PbO does. None of these compounds are brown/orange/red.

Having said all that, it's possible there are unintended side products that are brown/orange/red, but it doesn't seem like there should be much of them.

 

The red, orange, yellow, brown, and sometimes green, colors you see on spark plug ceramic when you read plugs are the oxides of lead (TEL) or manganese (MMT), lead oxide, lead dioxide, lead trioxide, etc. This is what colors the nasty bubbly ladybug wing looking deposits that form when an engine sits after running highly leaded fuel. The compound of bromine and lead, of which the deposits are formed, melts at a low enough temperature the next time you run the engine they melt and blow away. It truly is no big deal.