Not that I have seen. I think it's a liability issue for them.

 

I bet you can trick it by rigging a circuit that will imitate the drive by wire signal.

With a little imagination, you can probably rig it so you can flip a switch which will bypass the throttle circuit and use the "cruise" circuit. By using relays for control, you can then use the Holley to disconnect the cruise signal and have it reset back to the normal throttle input.

However, this would be slightly crude in that you could only have a throttle opening that is set "manually" and it would not compensate for inclines or other variations. However, you could probably rig a little rotary switch (varying ohms?) that would allow you to change it with only your fingertips.

 

I can see why it would be a liability issue for Holley. I figured if it's been done, some tech wiz created his own setup. Once I get it running, we'll add this to the list of "shit to figure out".

 

There are many retrofit cruise setups for vehicles that will tap into the pedal wiring, so I dont see why there would be any issue fitting cruise control in that manner. It would have nothing to do with the actual ecu being used, as all it will see is the two voltages it thinks are from the pedal.

It would of course need bake, clutch, speed inputs as required.

 

I'm assuming you're referring to something like this?

 

Yep...

Although you'd need a system that can take the relevant signals for vehicle speed, clutch/brake switches as necessary. As it wouldnt be able to receive data from the OBD port unless you've done a piggyback install with the OEM ecu still in place.
So it might take a little mix/match of control box options if there are different units.

 

This one should work
http://www.thecruisecontrolstore.com/250-1882-universal-cruise-for-drive-by-wire-etc-hotrod-classic-cars/

 

Interested to see if you can make this work. I want it too...

Andrew

 

Jus' sayin I don't get all the hype going to drive by wire. There are just some things......brakes and steering are two, that I think should have a direct connection to "what you are doing"

all this to eliminate 12" of control cable/ linkage

 

far from it.

Having control over the blade gives access to a far wider range of control over the engine.

Whether for driveability, controlling power/torque, launch, traction control, idle control, anti-lag, safety etc etc.

And when you nail your foot to the floor....WOT doesnt always produce the most power/torque at every rpm, so with dyno time you can map the blade so it opens to produce the most power and torque when your foot goes flat down.

If you look at OEM pedal vs blade maps, they are often far from simple ! Although not so many aftermarket ecu's offer that level of control.
If all you're going to do is simply mirror the pedal 1:1, then you're right, there's probably no point at all changing.


And of course it makes cruise control easier lol.

 

DBW serves more than just eliminating cable. Also eliminates IAC, and allows it to control traction as well. Also can change rate of opening and I'm sure a myriad of other benefits as well.

 

^^You are right of course, I always think more in terms of a street rig, where optimum HP is not always "whut"

 

OEM loves to magnify early tps vs pps to make the vehicle appear to have more bottom end than they do. The ones I see are easily 50% tps at 25% pps and under some conditions 60-70% at the same pps. I prefer 1:1 at all times.

 

True...on the other hand I have a little 5.3L and am using two 87mm DBW throttle bodies. I have the Dominator and I slow the pedal% vs. TPS way down for much easier low RPM/low speed drivability...

Andrew

 

Even with normal mechanical throttles...often the camwheel that operates it will not be a plain semi-circle. There will be some sort of variable pattern to it so it will open at different rates for different pedal movements. Usually slower at lower blade positions and faster up top.

DBW just gives you the freedom to do almost anything with the blade though ( ecu permitting )