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Converting a SBF to 9/16" head studs? anyone done it?

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7.1K views 23 replies 20 participants last post by  Seidle Motorsports  
#1 ·
I've got a little 8.2" deck 349 SBF with a billet impeller Precision Turbo 94mm turbo. I'm running a lot of compression (10.5:1) and I run VP Fuels C-16. I've been experimenting with reverse cooling (heads first, then the block) for extra detonation protection and it would seem to be working, but I have less than 20 passes on the car at this point, so the jury is still out.

However, back on topic, I was considering trying to convert my engine to 9/16" head studs. I currently have ARP 1/2" studs, which is the norm for any performance SBF, but I've noticed the guys who run Yates heads or Brodix Neals run 9/16" diameter studs. I run a TFS R head with an R302 block and wonder could I go to a 9/16" stud?

I run SCE Pro Copper head gaskets and I never "blow" a head gasket, but always seem to "lift" the head and wind up with a water leak (into the cylinder). Lately I see where the gasket has leaked between cylinders (carbon on the gasket). I think this may be due to the studs stretching.

My block is O-ringed and my heads have a receiver groove per SCE's specifications, but with 35+ psi of boost, I'm thinking the added strength of a 9/16" stud might be the answer I'm searching for.

I guess the first thing I need to find out is if there is enough material in the head (or block for that matter) to install a 9/16" stud. The other potential issue is interference with my rocker stands. I have Harland Sharp shaft mount rockers and with a 12 point ARP on the 1/2" studs, I still have to use a 3/8" drive 12 point deep well socket with a 1/2" drive adapter to torque the heads in order to clear the rocker stands.

Anyway, enough rambling about the combo. Has anybody installed 9/16" studs in a SBF with anything other than a yates or Brodix Neal head?
 
#10 ·
anyone have any info on someone who does the extra studs per cylinder, im having same issue ...lifting the head thinking more studs will fix the problem.
thought of going to 9/16 stud but worried about block cracking on the eds where there isnt a lot of meat around the stud.
im using dart compacted block has same issue on r351 block
 
#13 ·
yes roush great guys to deal with also. pm ben mens on here he will hook u up
 
#12 ·
I started out the same route you did scott..The coppers were what i was told to use & that was a big mistake...You switch to the cometics & i promise you won't regret it...I have 2 or 3 friends running turbo's had the same problem also & cometics fixed their problems.....
 
#15 ·
I have pondered on the same issue , Scott .. I still havent found a real good reason for the 9/16 stud.. I have seen alot of guys running them and also have seen their gaskets and the carbon tracking between the cylinders is still there... IMPO I would highly recommend to switch to Cometics .. I know some will tell you they arent sold on them yet .. But the MLS is a smarter choice on a SBF esp. when you have aluminum components..

The head lift is very common that is why the copper sucks in a sbf .. I switched to Cometics and every , And I mean every problem I had with the copper gaskets went away when I put the Cometics on it .... Tune is more critical also with the MLS ... The coppers are a krutch for a bad tune and is the weak link..
 
#16 ·
I have 9/16 in mine using high ports. I torque 145 molly or 175 with oil. You can hone the inside of stock dowel pin to clear the 9/16 stud. My heads were notched for the bigger nut/washer but there is plenty of room between the valvetrain. ARP sells these studs individually so close to SBF lengths they work. The Ford Big block studs are too long.
 
#19 ·
I'm still using cometics but i don't know why some claim better than coppers. You have to use a 51 wire and groove both the head and block for copper to work right. Cometics have there limit especially on big blocks. I like the flat out copper it has a viton coating all over. True with coppers you have no fuseable link. Whats good about the cometic they are like a rubberband if the head moves but your still losing seal.
 
#22 ·
my engine builder made me use the copper head gaskets when i didn't want to and i had nothing but problems even tryed the titan and it was a little better but the problem was still there i pull the motor had him redo the deck and heads straight with no grooves
and went with the fel pro mls, solved my problem never had an issue not i time i've had to worry about water in my cylinder when before it was all the freaking time, never used cometics but know people that can't get them to stop seaping water out the corners.
fel pro mls never heard anybody with that issue
 
#23 ·
That's because Fel Pro had a thicker sticky coating. I thought fel pro quit making that gasket. Problem with Fel pro you could not custom order thickness. The flat out copper gaskets have the viton coating. Cometics need a real slick surface get some tubes of ford/IH diesel gray slicone and some copper coat:eek: Fill the block about an inch from top(hard blok) don't pressurize cooling system and get a big puke tank:smt082