If the holes are blind you do not need sealer.

You don't want the stud screwed in tight because it can cock. you want it backed off just a little so when you torque it , it will pull up straight.

 

Hand tight then back it off a 1/8 a round

 

red locktite,double nut,put then in tight......thats how i was told by my builder after i followed arps instructions and the leaked water!!!

 

This would only be for a hole going into water, right? You don't want to bottom/tighten a stud going into a blind hole.

 

Silicone on them studs, run in be hand will never leak.........[/QUOTE]

EXACTLY^^^ I had to tear down a motor last fall that the builder had loctited the studs in they were a **** to remove. Had to double nut every single one.

I have bowtie block with blind holes on new build so I just thread them in with a little wd40 on the threads (so they dont rust in)

On everything else I've ever done its been brake clean the threads on both the block and studs (VERY IMPORTANT STEP) Then apply rtv to the threads of the studs, thread in hand tight only then slightly back off. Let set up, razor blade off the excess from the deck surface (if there is any)

 

If using silicone or Teflon thread sealant, be SURE to torque the nuts before the sealant cures, or it can compromise the sealant when you torque them later. There is clearance between the threads of the stud and the block. You want the threads in full tension before the sealant cures. A MUCH better process for proper torque. If you use non hardening sealant then it doesn't matter.

 

Ok. So run them in by hand with some thread sealer. What is usually preferred? Liquid Teflon, red RTV, TheRiteStuff (sp)...?

 

Why not follow ARP's instructions?

 

DO NOT use silicone with bolts. It is the slipperiest shit known to man, it will skew the torque readings and WILL pull threads.

 

X2!
If the threaded holes in the block go into the water jacket, use a good quality THREAD SEALER. I use some stuff that NAPA sells in a small tin can. Apply it sparingly on the stud threads, then install them per ARP instructions - finger tight.

 

You guys are going to kill me for the newb questions

naw...we wont kill ya outright...

we prefer to maim newbs & let em suffer

 

I had always used Permatex #2 non-hardening sealer on SBC head bolts & had never had an issue. Used that on head studs & for some reason they seeped a little coolant & the Teflon sealer that replaced it sealed it up.

 

This is from Dart's instructions for their Aluminum Chevy race blocks:

Head Gasket & Cylinder Head Installation: You must use sealer on the head stud threads. Use silicone around all
coolant holes and head studs on both sides of gasket. Pack the counterbore around the head stud with silicone leaving a
small amount sticking up around the stud. This exact procedure should seal all coolant leaks.


http://www.dartheads.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/2011/09/Aluminum-Chevy-Small-Block.pdf

 

Depends on blind or open to water hole for me. I use some arp lube or anti seize on the threads in a blind hole and pipe dope from Lowe's on one's with them going into water. The nice part about the pipe dope is it won't set like rtv until warmed. So it has a long working time.

 

Acdelco head stud sealant for water, engine oil for blind, hand tight.

 

 

Rodent4 thats the best ive heard so far, itll work everytime.

 

Put red lock tight on stud & screw into block till stud is hand tight. Lots of ARP ultra lube on inside & bottom of nut, Or top of washer before torqueing them down.

 

I use GE tub + tile silicone in the caulking gun, have for 40 years . Stuff your trying to seal has to be clean ---Trevor

 

Stock block will need sealer ,its an open hole the stud stops at the shoulder

Aftermarket block just run em down by hand dry

 

It appears I have been sent incorrect head studs for the heads. Good news is that gives you guys a couple more days to debate this out some more before I pick a post and go.

 

while you wait , go get some of those gm tablets you put in the radiator .

 

ultimate and proper cure to head stud leakage is to BUY A LEGIT RACE ENGINE BLOCK..

because ALL of these have BLIND head bolt threads.....

SIMPLE....

 

Class rules prohibit aftermarket blocks.

 

the very best is quite time consuming and costly..
but we HAVE machined each bolt hole at the deck for a tight fitting o ring.. and this seals it all up well..

has the block been o ringed for the rest of gasket piston bore...???

what exact block...?
what boresize to be ran...?

 

we have even used epoxy..and "set" the studs with a dummy head torques down before it hardens......

or else if you do not pull up with torque on studs, and it dries first.. it will in fact crack the sealant / epoxy and will leak.

I have done the previously mentioned o ring deal on quite a few blocks...