You still need zinc so the Brad Penn you were running would be fine. You will got alot of different opinions. I run the Valvoline vr1 racing oil. Lucas is good oil also. Some guys run Schaefer's oil. It all depends on your preference. Plenty of good options. Pick to one that you're most comfortable with and you should be fine. The main thing is not to have your tuneup and idle too rich. That will milk the oil regardless of what brand you run. Make sure your idle mixture is good and your tuneup and you will be good to go.

 

Vote for staying with Brad Penn. Use the 70 weight in blown alcohol hemi truck pull engines and does not milk up like many others. Reason is uses Pennsylvania crude as part of its base stock and others do not. That base will not combine with alcohol. Alcohol will separate out after setting and you can pour it off the oil or vice versa.

 

On my blown alky SBC, I use Valvoline VR1 60 wt with a quart of Lucas Oil Treatment, no oil pressure or bearings issues.

 

Use only Brad Penn now with alcohol injection. Does not seem to get as milky as others.

 

Amsoil Dominator 15w50 I'll drain it about every 20 passes or so and change the filter, get the nasty shit out and put it back in with some fresh oil to top off. I also run a vacuum pump.

 

Rotella 15w40 and Lucas Oil Treatment.

 

The Brad Penn oil is a good choice. Renegade also offers a race oil with the most zinc of any manufacturer, and it's designed for alcohol use.

 

I am using Lucas synthetic racing 10-30 for the last 2 seasons. I have seen no issues what so ever. Have used Brad Penn 20-50 and Amsoil Dominator 10-30 in the past and both have worked great with Methanol. I don't believe you could go wrong with any of the three. Racing oil technology now is so good that finding a bad oil is harder than finding a good oil. Any problems one might encounter is usually more to do with the tune up I.E. way rich, than the oil itself.

 

Been using Brad Penn for the last decade. No problems do to oil.

 

Same here no problems, blown BBC

Rick

 

Brad penn in my injected 555.

 

Brad Penn 10/30 here. I still have flat tappets. Not methanol but E85 which has some of the same issues. I get some condensation... only thing comes out of the breather tank is water but the oil stays dark green.

 

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'm adding a stand alone EGT system to work on my tune a little better and I'm at a point were I can build heat nicely but before going to alcohol I was kinda spoiled by the number of passes I could get out of my engines. I am going to step up my maintenance program and see if that helps. Years ago I ran a product called Pro Blend and was always very happy with the way my bearing looked on rebuilds. My local speed shop closed and for what ever reason I stopped using it. I see its still on the market so I may research it some to see what others say about it an alcohol use. Thanks again guys.

 

Im running Rons Injection and use the primer plus gas start/run around pits. My cylinders and oil are Clean as a Whistle Heat it up on gas shut it down on gas
Works very well
250 Runs so far change oil every 20-30 passes

 

I use Schaefer's 20-50, and change it every 15-20 passes.

 

Brad Penn

 

I use Brad Penn in mine..

 

Jegs with racer discount is the best price I've seen..

 

Is that less then $65 a case shipped?

 

Brad Penn or Schaefer,, The GREEN oil from Pa

 

www.lesfrickshun.com small pennsylvania company from out your part of the state (oil city)

$4.25 a quart for anything he makes
Tom Harry is the owner and a super nice and smart guy.
Give him a call. I like the personal service and I think he makes a better product than Brad Penn. Supporting a small business in my state makes sense for me.

I use his 15/40 in a 388 on alcohol
and his tractor fluid in my powerglide.

 

Brad Penn 20/50. Change every 20 passes or so.



Nik

 

I was using Brad Penn 20-50 but now am converting to Valvoline VR1 20-50 or the Valvoline Max-Life 20-50 both have tested very well in the tests I have seen better than the Brad Penn. Although my bearings have always looked perfect with the Brad Penn.
As for the milking of the oil two things to be aware of is if it is too rich especially at idle it will milk oil badly. The other thing is if you get oil temp up before you load the car at end of the day it will evaporate the water out quickly. I lean it out and watch water temp and as soon as water temp gets over 200*-210* the oil just clears right up.

 

Here's the Pro-Blend oil additive I used to use.

 

I use VR-1 in my motor.

I put 90-100 passes on it before changing it out.

As stated, The key is to make sure you get heat in the oil. I put an oil temp sensor in the pan and it was eye opening to how much effort it can take to get temp in the oil. Also keep in mind, water temp is not oil temp. Before I put my diaper on, I was surprised on how quickly the oil would loose temp. Even hot lapping, it was pretty quick to lose oil temp between passes. It was tough to maintain 150-160 degree temps. The diaper really helped stabilize the oil temp and once I get it there, I can easily hold 190-200 degree temps.

I also run an oil pan heater to help build heat in the oil before I start it. I never start it unless I am going to take it through a full heat cycle. I have never once milked the oil and I send my oil off every time to get it tested.

Also another thing, if you run a vacuum pump, mount the check valve on the pump or line to the pump. When you mounted it on a valve cover, when the valve opens it, allows outside air to flow through the motor. So you are constantly introducing moisture into the motor. Further, I have never seen one with an actual filter, so the dust and dirt in the air is being pulled right in your motor. It was interesting to see the difference in the fluid level in the vacuum pump tank between the valve cover mounted and vacuum pump mounted check valve.

 

All of this. I change out about the same 90-100 passes.

 

Brad Penn

 

I run Shaeffers Micron Moly SAE30 in my injected SBC...
It's designed for alcohol fueled engines...

Change it every 40-50 passes...
My 434 had over 800 passes on it before it's last freshen and still looked new inside...