The bolt in adapters from the frame to the rubber motor mount are different heights from SB to BB....might effect oil pan and header clearances. If it's a street car the heater core hose entries change from next to the motor to away from the motor....all these parts are avalible from Nova or Camaro vendors.

 

X2

 

Not sure on the nova but on the 67-69 camaro there were 3 different v8 mounts 307 327, 302 350,big block, the trans cross members were the same as far as heights. I would put the big block frame mounts in

 

Big block engine mounts and stands are tall and narrow, Small block are short and wide.

Either can be used, depends on what you are trying to accomplish

 

I have a 70 nova.I switch between a 355 and a 454.

My car has big block frame mounts.And they work with both the big block and small block.It does not change the transmission mount position.If you have no steering box I would bet a big block would fit with small block mounts.All the big block mounts do is raise the driver side up to move the exhaust away from the steering box.

One thing to consider is make sure you have a car oil pan.I had to notch my crossmember even with a milodon 7 qaurt pan made for a car.

 

Frame mounts

SB LH 3955183
SB RH 3955184

BB LH 3980941
BB RH 3980942

 

I have SB stands and mounts in mine, Lemon headers fit clearing everything comfortably.
I have a Moroso 7qt pan, frame had to be modified to fit.

If you use SB frame stands and mounts, you will more than likely have fitment issues with OOTB headers.

 

Even without a steering box?

 

I would use the big block mounts.It helps with dist. cap clearance and gets engine a little lower.

 

If the BB stands are taller, how does that lower the engine

 

As far as I know the passenger side frame mount is the same height.Its the driver side thats slightly taller.It not by much either.

 

Btw I have solid moroso engine mounts that work for either the big block and small block.

 

Small block mounts are the same height , big block is not . Right side is shorter and with the correct left side moves the engine over about 3/4 " . Trans mount is the same . I ran into problems with the upper control arm bolts hitting the header but they can be cut . If you are using the " Z " bar for a stick , the BB is also longer .

 

Yup I did have to cut the passenger front control arm bolt as well.I run el cheapo hedman 68190 headers.

 

My car like said has been converted to rack and pinion so no steering box, I have also changed control arms from stock to Smith Race Craft tubular upper and lowers.

I ordered a set of Dynatech Headers which have a 2 3/8 primary tubes. I have had great luck with their headers on all of our other cars, but sbc stuff.

Car still has heater core but I do not run the hoses to it.

The motor is a ZZ 502 with a moroso 7 qt pan on it.

So will it work with the mounts that are in the car or is it recommended I change frame mounts?

 

Just put the BB mounts in and you won't have to worry about any clearance issues. As stated by many...the SB mounts will work but the motor will sit differently and you may have clearance issues at the dist cap and headers as well as the angle front to back. I went from BB to SB in my 72. Motor dropped right in but I had multiple fitment issues at the dist cap (small MSD) , tranny (TKO 600) height and even the balancer at the sway bar. In other words everything was out of whack.

 

Do a Google search on B/B frame mounts, you will learn quite a bit. Had a friend that ran a NAPA store, I took all his GM rubber engine mounts out of the boxes and laid them on the floor to measure and find the best one for the B/B swap that was the shortest, it is the Holy Grail of engine mounts!

P/N 602-1104 Balkamp at NAPA. Years ago I also used Moroso solid mounts from time to time but did not save the number, if you want rubber biscut, this is the shit!
With these mounts I put a ZZ502 into my 1967 Corvette (that had a 427) and had no problem with hood clearance with the stock B/B hood. Dave

 

Agreed, use BB mounts-it moves the engine to one side, and headers fit better if designed for a nova with BB,
although with the steering box rem prob doesn't matter.
Also heater outlets change.

 

Do it right, change the heater core.

 

He'd have to change (or holesaw) the core cover too!...
But........it would look like a factory BB Nova, if he went to that extreme!...

 

My 71 Nova removed 6 and installed 454 using orriginal frame stands and used Hedman street header

 

Ok fellas, I ordered the BB frame mounts. I will see if I can get it all squeezed in there soon. Thanks.

 

Don't forget the transmission crossmember, it is different.
Formed oval tubing like a Chevelle instead of the standard Nova two flat stampings welded together, and the mount pad is offset to match the offset frame stands.

 

Which Moroso pan?

 

edit

 

Yes, I have had prolly 5 factory B/B Novas and that is all the factory did, they put a piece of sponge rubber on the inside of he firewall to block the two heater core holes (yes, that is all) and using the non-A/C heater core box just relocated the holes outboard the cylinder head on the box. I small plate was put over the 2 holes held with I think only one screw.

The plate is available from the restoration shops as is the different heater core.

Your V.I.N. will only tell you if your Nova is a V8, straight 6, or 4 cylinder ( they made Nova 4 cylinder cars and the 4 cylinder had an air cooled powerslide with a finned converter and holes in the bell case)

Besides the heater core the factory B/B cars had a bigger cutout for the radiator on the regular core support, you will see the line that you can cut to on the stamping. They also had a 3/8" fuel line instead of 5/16", 12 bolt rears and nutserts in the body above the rear for the special exhaust and crossflow muffler, the hangers were different also for that exhaust and tailpipes.

Got the Novas out of my system years ago and I am better now! Dave