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OK, thanks.

A few I seen were neither.

I would bet the original guy did it to clear the oil pan.
My buddy with a '67 has a notched crossmember and runs a stock pan,
but the guy that did it, absolutely did it for a full race pan.
I don't remember anyone I know ever doing it for weight savings.

Why would someone cut up a crossmember for no reason.
It's a lot of work welding in braces so nothing shifts, boxing in the ends, making the tubes,
installing them and removing all the bracing and then the clean up.

It's not something you just slap together or you will cause issues down the line.
 
I would bet the original guy did it to clear the oil pan.
My buddy with a '67 has a notched crossmember and runs a stock pan,
but the guy that did it, absolutely did it for a full race pan.
I don't remember anyone I know ever doing it for weight savings.

Why would someone cut up a crossmember for no reason.
It's a lot of work welding in braces so nothing shifts, boxing in the ends, making the tubes,
installing them and removing all the bracing and then the clean up.

It's not something you just slap together or you will cause issues down the line.
Could be, was unsure what IF any weight savings. I just thought it was for dropping the pan in the car ?

Never had anything "fast", so I don't know
 
Could be, was unsure what IF any weight savings. I just thought it was for dropping the pan in the car ?

Never had anything "fast", so I don't know

That would be interesting idea.
Every car I've seen has been welded in, I wonder if anyone has made them removable??
Not sure if you can get the tubing low enough to drop the pan.
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
I just figured out how to use the multi-quote feature LMAO.

Me: Man you really raise a good point, I've never scaled the car. I plan to stay on a radial and I'm guessing I'd want to be 54-52% on the nose. So, I need to scale the car before I buy that rack.
I did the TRZ column in my Chevelle, but kept the stock steering box. Mostly because I need to be about 54% on the front to leave hard with a radial. I had just put a new front end on with glass fenders and a new hood, and seemed silly to spend a bunch removing weight off the front if I was going to just have to add weight to keep the front end down. I was also in need of a hip replacement at the time, and it helped getting in and out of the car. :)

Me: Yeah they are not as puncture resistant and wear faster, but I've had cars with mult sets of wheels before, it's worth doing again.
The difference between the MT SR front tires and a lightweight front runner is huge. I believe the SR radial is 29lbs, the Hoosier front I run is only 8lbs. The lightweight tires are not a good street tire, so having two sets mounted isn't a bad idea.
Me: Yeah keep those ideas coming!
If you look real hard there are a lot of places you can cut extra steel out of the car. I did 69 Nova for a customer with all steel except for a bolt on glass hood, it had factory bumpers, all glass windows, it was a 4 link but maintained the factory floor, trunk, and frame rails. With a parachute, wheelie bars, and a BBC with a old heavy P&S block came in at 3007#. But I had to do a lot to get it there, gutted the factory column except for turn signal switch, rack and pinion, even cut the steering box supports out of the inside of the OEM sub frame. You can get them pretty light, it just depends how hard you want to work.
Me: We talking 10 lbs total between both?
Can’t give a # on the rear windows, but I imagine it’s pretty considerable
 
Dang that's worth it. Local buddy said he just made a bracket from aluminum flat stock something like that.
It's usually pretty easy to fab a bracket for the 1/4 windows, the glass already has a couple of holes in it were the factory regulator attaches and there is a lip on the inside of the 1/4 where the window fits, just do not tighten the fasteners too much in the glass, you will break the glass, ask me how I know.
 
It's usually pretty easy to fab a bracket for the 1/4 windows, the glass already has a couple of holes in it were the factory regulator attaches and there is a lip on the inside of the 1/4 where the window fits, just do not tighten the fasteners too much in the glass, you will break the glass, ask me how I know.
Use Nylon nut and bolt, no problem.
 
I need to look into the tire weight difference between my 15" MT SRs and a similar bias ply tire. I would consider running a different set of fronts just for the track.
The MT Sportsman fronts are a decent compromise if you dont want to have to sets of tires and rims. Summit has real good info on their tires like weights and dimensions if you need to compare.
 
Mmmm will add a set of these to the list. You got me fired up Vinny to try to get this heap to 3000 raceweight.
😎😎😎 the Hoosiers are the lightest I’ve weighed, haven’t yet weighed the Moroso or the M/T. The Goodyears so far are the heaviest and definitely are more in line of what the tire is advertised as size wise. The others seem to run on the small side compared to what they’re advertised as. Picture is a 27x4.5 Hoosier VS a 27x4.5 Goodyear- check out the width difference. The Goodyears were a few pounds heavier each. I do think they are a better quality tire though.
 

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