Yellow Bullet Forums banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,246 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I should add that I'm referring to the guys putting together aggressive street strip combos but not all out race combos... more the guys doing NA or a 370 with a plate kit kinda stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
724 Posts
still would choose the LS2 :)

strong foundation and much less weight...only a few extra hundred dollars to go that route as well...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
722 Posts
It was a price thing for me. I picked up my LQ9 block for $100.

My next build will most likely be an LS2 set up with the MID sleeves to push for a 4.125+ bore build with a short stroke to take advantage of some of the new aftermarket LS3 style heads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
I chose the LQ9 block which is bigger then the LQ4, but its also an iron block. I figured I could find somewhere else to lose the 80 extra lbs or find a way to compensate for it in the build. I am also doing an all drag motor so that played a part in my decision as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,246 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Been around this stuff so long I had forgotten the differences in the block designations:

The LQ9 is the higher compression 6.0 (10.0:1) out of a SS Silverado,escalade,VortecMax truck

The LQ4 is the lower compression 6.0 (9.0:1 I believe)

The 5.3 came in trucks,suburbans, and tahoes. Yes its still considered an LS motor. LM7

I think the LQ4 and LQ9 are the same bore size. The L92 is 4.065 bore though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,844 Posts
The 4 and 9 are the same block, just the comp difference. I have a few that I do with the iron block, it has better ring seal than the aluminum and the head gasket seems a bit better. I would like the weight loss, but the iron has advantage in a few areas on some builds. Cost is a big part that plays a role in some builds and drives the choice sometimes.

Kurt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,508 Posts
using a lm7 now, but soon as i get my hands on a alum 6.0 cheap, ill be on it like flies on shit! ive got less than a wk before this alum 6.2 longblock core i pulled is outta warranty call back time, then ill build something with it. my ls's go in dragboats, so every lb i can drop matters majorly!
 

·
LSXTTFMF
Joined
·
927 Posts
I'm currently changing setups from an iron 403 to a MID Darton sleeved gen4 aluminum block. It started life as a 5.3 but all the gen4 aluminum blocks have the same water galleys so when you sleeve them it doesn't matter if it's an LS2/3 or 5.3.

The only reason I wanted to go with the aluminum block is because of weight and the sleeves being slightly longer giving the piston more support at BDC aspecially on 4.0" stroke and bigger.

I'm going to try to push it to around 1200whp so we'll see how it holds up. I've been getting mixed feelings on MID sleeves but they seem to be working well in many other applications.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,246 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I'm stuck around 2006 on the MID stuff, is it pretty solid?

Are any of the new build guys using stock bottom iron blocks + cam, heads and maybe a power adder or are all doing forged pistons? How cheap are forged pistons for something in the 900 hp range, like $500?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,049 Posts
alum or LS2, you have to be leaving some kind of power on the table with stock sleeve alum. If you want to spend $3000 on a block, good sleeved alum ok, but under that, Id go with the iron for the stability. Sure stock sleeve might SURVIVE 1000 hp, but Iid bet the iron makes more than 10+ hp at that level than stock sleeve alum, worth the 80#s
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,120 Posts
Are you guys focusing on the LQ4 blocks mostly due to price? The extra 80 lbs is not worth spending more money?

Just curious.

John most of the engines i done last year and doing this year is iron stuff

due to my customers not being able to afford the ls2 alloy stuff due to price-

you guys are lucky as we have no second hand ls2 blocks only new from the dealer for just under 2k aus dollars-

most of my guys dont care about the extra 100 pounds as 90% dont really race anyway-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,134 Posts
Iron blocks are cheaper and stronger and like Kurt said cylinders hold shape better and head gaskets seal a lil better but we've done lots of 1000 RWHP LS2 as well but they are weaker and the cylinders go out of round fast.

You freshen an iron block and the hone comes right back in whereas on aluminum blocks the cylinders are always wacky. The MID is good if done by the right people and stress relieved before final machining on the sleeves.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,457 Posts
I'm personally using the iron block and like it best for all the reasons mentioned above, but if you want the aluminum spend the money and buy an ERL block.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
I have an iron block with stock bottom adding heads soon and pistons later. These LQ4 blocks are a dime a dozen and can handle some killer hp.
 

·
LSXTTFMF
Joined
·
927 Posts
I almost wish I had gone with another iron block! And I still may, sleeved aluminum blocks hold their value pretty well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,246 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
As an example onefast84, you're the new LS guy that I'm talking about. Are you thinking LS1/2/6 or LS3/L92 heads?

Are most of the new LS guys looking hard at the LS3/L92 heads?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,457 Posts
Remember it's not what you can afford to build, but it's what you can afford to maintain. If I spit a rod out of my $200.00 junk yard iron block it's a lot cheaper for me to be back in business then if I went with a high dollar aluminum block. Same with the rods that I bought. I can buy them individually.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top