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Discussion Starter #1
I hope someone here can help me out?

I purchased a used 9" dynalite drag race rear axle brake kit from a good friend of mine. $300.00
I had my 9 " built with Moser center section 40 spline gun drilled/ star flanged axles 5/8 studs.
When I attempted to mount the old rotors they were contacting the caliper bracket.
I have Big Ford New style flanges, I called Wilwood and was instructed to measure the flange to axle. Wilwood determined I required a different Brake hat (WIL-170-0764)1.41 in. offset.
Current hats were 1.71 in. offset.
Both hats look the same but the new hats are thicker where they sit on the axle flange kind of like a rim spacer built right into the hat. The flange on the axle that the rim sits on or centers is recessed in the brake hat.
$190.00 for new hats and Wilwood hardware, paid local chassis shop $30 to drill out the BC for 5/8 studs
mocked up the brakes everything looks OK???
Mount the rim ( Prostar ) doesnt center, 5\8 washers are now too long
I torqued the rims down and rear end locked up, WTF
I called Wilwood and they sugested I call Moser?

Should I use the old hats and maybe use a different caliper mount?
I have seen offset calipers but I think they are for different brakes?

Help
 

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If the hats from the wheel face to rotor mounting are dimensionally the same.. you would have had this problem with either hat you were using..

the caliper has to center on the rotor.

Is the caliper and wheel hitting each other?
 

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Why is the thing locking up? Try using spacers to tighten the hat to the axel with the rim off and see what is hitting what.
 

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I have seen Pro Stars dig-into stock calipers but never saw that with Wilwoods. Take the wheel off and use the thick aluminum spacers and tighten-down the hat as if you were mounting the wheel, see what is hitting what as Real McCoy said above. Make sure you have the correct spacers on the caliper so the rotor is centered between the pads while the hat is tight. I'm sure you have already done this though.
 

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What do you mean 'rim doesn't center, 5/8 washers too long' whatever you are talking about here is where the problem likely lies. It sounds like the caliper is centered on the rotor ok (thats why you needed new rotors, right?) and caliper is bolted proper; the calipers will work inside that wheel, the dynalite is a standard 4 piston caliper - you don't have one of the street version with an extra wide spacer for vented rotor and parking brake do you? Sounds like the problem is in the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If the hats from the wheel face to rotor mounting are dimensionally the same.. you would have had this problem with either hat you were using..

the caliper has to center on the rotor.

Is the caliper and wheel hitting each other?
Yes the previous hat I had purchased offset was too deep causing the rotor to contact the caliper bracket Caliper clears wheel and rotor fine

The new hats I ordered are 0.500" thick and push the wheel outwards, I will attatch a pic
 

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Discussion Starter #7
 

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Discussion Starter #8
 

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OK so everything works now except the rim sits outward more? Like the old hats were 3/8 think and these are 1/2 thick? If that is a big problem I'd just get the hats cut down to 3/8 think. You could do it in a lath or get by using a fly cutter in a mill if you had to. But I don't see why that would lock up the rear end.
 

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OK so everything works now except the rim sits outward more? Like the old hats were 3/8 think and these are 1/2 thick? If that is a big problem I'd just get the hats cut down to 3/8 think. You could do it in a lath or get by using a fly cutter in a mill if you had to. But I don't see why that would lock up the rear end.
Is it safe to machine the hats down?Reason i ask is I have those thick hats and they push my wheels out closer that I would like.


I would check if the caliper is rubbing the wheel when you tighen it down,I tred to put a set of stretched ralleys on my car and the caliper was touching the wheel and locking them up.
 

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If the old hats were 3/8 why would making the new ones 3/8 be a concern? Call Wilwood and ask might be a good idea if that was a concern.
 

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Did you have the hats tight on the axle flange when you set the spacing on the calipers?

Sounds dumb but i have seen it happen more than once when people get in a hurry or side tracked.

Thanks Brandon.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I removed the wheels, removed the calipers, installed the spacers to tighten the rotor down and discovered the fasteners that attach the rotor to the brake hat were contacting the caliper bracket.
I removed the caliper bracket and installed my dual caliper bracket and WHAM!!! it works , I did not need to use shims for the calipers and it looks OK now.
The only concern is ,
Do I need a centering ring?
Let me know if the wheel is too close to the quarter panel?

This is the highest the wheel will go.
The shock mount is at the top so the wheel can only get moved up higher.
 

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