Yellow Bullet Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,554 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Im thinking about turbocharging my beater bmw 325i and throwing my spare 8.8 housing and ladder bars in it. The problem is the transmission uses a flanged output shaft and a 2 piece driveshaft with a slip joint and center bearing support. Would machining an adapter flange for the transmission and welding a piece of a glide output shaft to it work to use a "normal" style driveshaft with a glide/th350 slip yoke?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,053 Posts
what about everything else... Bmw uses the tunnel for the exhaust also...
Getting away from the 2 pc will be an issue since you will then have to increase the diameter of the tube now...making more issues...
Just have the rear section of shaft modified to put the proper weld yoke series to the joint or flange the 8.8 is using....

Your local driveshaft shop should know what to do... if not let me know
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,554 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Everything else? The exhaust isnt an issue. Ive built more than a couple bmw's. Theres plenty of room for everything. The stock shaft twists easily, re-tube it and the splines on the slip joint twist. By the time you probably build a complete custom 2 piece shaft it would probably be just as cost effective to build my motor adapter plate for a glide or th350 which is more work than I want to do for this shitbox.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,053 Posts
See now you never said in the original post there was a different motor...
Just that you wanted to turbo 325i

So this is a race car and not a bmw.... then there is no need for a 2 piece...

Gotta be specific in the post... so there is a t-350 trans and 8.8 out back ... just make a shaft with the t-350 slip
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,554 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
No no, I AM keeping the bmw motor. I would prefer to keep the 5 speed for the fun factor. The slip joint is in the stock shaft which sucks....hence my wanting to use a standard style shaft. I may just sell the car. I only thought about this since its already registered and emissions exempt. I was just saying if its going to get expensive I could just swap an auto behind this motor...but I dont really want to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,053 Posts
I have done bmw's before and the factory stuff does fine, i haven't seen them have issues really except for a guy that does drifting, his problem is hanger bearings.

I can't see how you twist the splines since there fully engaged, on bmw's the slips are only there to get the shafts in and out, that is the only purpose.
There should be no part of the splined yoke shaft exposed from the sleeve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,053 Posts
well like i said they seem to be fine, you can do that to a pto shaft also, doesn't mean it's the pto or pump is making to much power, mostly operator error.

When did that happen and what exactly were you doing....experiencing any unloading issues? that happens with the drifting cars, and the hanger can cause that if the rubber is screwed up and the shaft has to much play to shake itself.


That same shaft and material can be found in the SRT cars, heavier and more power, and there not twisting them.... so like i say they do just fine...even with some pretty good hits
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
I have made adapters to go from the beemer donut to a standard flange/yoke combo. Btw jon are you related to the carls east coast speed volks from rhode island?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
636 Posts
I am doing something similar to my BMW (thanks supershafts for the help btw). My problem was the ujoints were wore out and I didn't want to pay for a new shaft. I got an 8.8 shaft from one buddy and a front driveshaft from another buddy out of his chevy 4x4. I had one adapter made for the front tripod flange to 4x4 shaft, which I had modified to use only the 4x4 flange and slip joint. Another adapter to mount the 8.8 flange to the BMW rearend flange and the a bushing to join the 4x4 slip yoke to the 8.8 tube. I just dropped it off to be welded and balanced yesterday so hopefully by the weekend I'll have it back and get to put it in. So far the only hitch is that I will either have to grind just a tad on the 8.8 flange or space the front of the rearend down just a little for clearance in the rear crossmember. If anyones interested I can post pics when I get the shaft back.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top