Will 20w amsoil be ok to run in my 2000hp turbo lsx
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5,864 Posts
Hell I like the oil pressure just like it is. The LS doesn't have to worry about distributor gear wear like a wet sump SBC/BBC with high oil pressures. If the clearances are as tight as I think they are I would keep it high to ensure against touch down with loading that high and an oil wedge that thin. 10w-30 and let it rip.
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16,611 Posts
If it's always going to be at approximately 160-180deg F when you leave the line then I think 10-40w is good with those clearance.
If it's only going to be "warm" 140-150ish, then 10-30w will be good.
Basically no matter what oil you run, you should have a target temperature (for the viscosity selected) the oil reaches before making a pass. Since I usually expect to see 180-220deg F oil temps when I run True Street, I either use 10-40w or 20-50w in my car. I won't make a pass unless my oil temp is at least 180deg F. My clearances are similar to yours, I run a wet sump and see only 70psi or so when the engine is up in the rpm range.
If it's only going to be "warm" 140-150ish, then 10-30w will be good.
Basically no matter what oil you run, you should have a target temperature (for the viscosity selected) the oil reaches before making a pass. Since I usually expect to see 180-220deg F oil temps when I run True Street, I either use 10-40w or 20-50w in my car. I won't make a pass unless my oil temp is at least 180deg F. My clearances are similar to yours, I run a wet sump and see only 70psi or so when the engine is up in the rpm range.
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104 Posts
I just worry about 100plus oil pressure and pumping pan dry. I know the bushing resist oil the top but 100psi worry me. i hoped someone has ran this pressure in my setup. I hate to pull front k member to pull oil and change spring in pump.
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5,864 Posts
If you go down to 10W-30 it will come down a considerable amount. If that's still not where you want to be you can always try something like 5W-30. You could also go to a full synthetic but I would run at least 25gal of fuel thru it before switching to synthetic to avoid any possible ring seal issues. To me the full synthetic seems thinner than conventional oil with the same rating, especially when it gets hot.
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19,292 Posts
Yes it would.
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12,568 Posts
You won't pump a pan dry. I don't even know where this comes from. The lighter the oil the more wear you have on an engine. Lightweight racing oils are designed not to cling to parts either. You have to have things coated. You won't gain anymore than 10 hp using lightweight oil vs more maintenance cost. Someone will say I'm wrong but is fact
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16,611 Posts
Uh, not necessarily.
If we are talking a wet sump with OEM style pump, a high volume pump will typically move more volume. But the oil pressure indicates how much oil the pump is attempting to pump. It doesn't matter what type of pump is being used, 100psi indicates the pump is attempting to move more oil (and is doing so) than if the oil pressure is 60psi.
Basically the oil flowing is a combination of oil viscosity, oil pressure and clearances through the oil feed path (bearings, lifters, rockers, etc..). Add pressure and more oil will flow.
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49,794 Posts
My 408, runs 3.25 on mains 2.75 on rods and I run 5w30 mobile 1 with a melling 10335 and oil pressure hot is 25-30 at idle and 60+ over 2000 rpm, I have considered going to 5w20 mobile one, biggest thing, make sure bearings get adequate oil flow for cooling, best way to do that if the motor is tight, is to lower the viscosity, you see OEM's doing that now, tighter motors, lighter oils, electronic pumps to drop oil pressure more. the bigger clearances help keep oil out of the top end, and keep the mains and rods fed really well, a good windage tray and crank scraped and it works great.
and engine are lasting longer then ever with each year having successively high outputs.
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16,782 Posts
I bet that bad boy 408! makes over 4000 hp ya lol ?
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49,794 Posts
about 1400 on pump gas all in, shifts at 8500 and is street driven weekly and daily all summer with the air on in traffic.
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16,782 Posts
Cool beans have any vids of that bad boy ?
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49,794 Posts
nothing from last year, we spent the last 2 yrs breaking the valve train, had a balancing issue that ate up the mains, and nipped a piston , really loved pulling the heads off to fix ripped out threads though. I might post some up come spring. trying to get out to the track now that it isn't ripping the valve train up.Then again, the guy I partner with on it, likes to grudge it, so it is unlikely. If I get around to putting one of my other projects together I might post vids. If your planning to call me out, don't bother, I have done work for a ton of people on bullet, don't waste your efforts.
BTW I used to be a heavy oil guy, I have seen the light, and the engineering data, and it says, heavy oils aren't the greatest, that's a carry over from the old days when we didn't have multi viscosity oils with the type of additive packages we have now, and tolerance control was abysmal.
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24,617 Posts
I have 30 on the mains , 28 on the rods . I run 50wt ...... lol ...... not sure where all you oil pressure is coming from .
Must be an LS thing .
I only have 20psi at idle and 70 at speed .
High vol / high pressure pump .
I do get my pressure reading at the tee that goes to the turbo though ..... china wall
Must be an LS thing .
I only have 20psi at idle and 70 at speed .
High vol / high pressure pump .
I do get my pressure reading at the tee that goes to the turbo though ..... china wall
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16,782 Posts
Naaaaaaa no need to call you out hell I was even thinking of having you build me a new short block maybe with your cam , pistion, oil , and head designs I could make more hp
You'd ware your window out having to stick your head out to see if the rings are sealing..Naaaaaaa no need to call you out hell I was even thinking of having you build me a new short block maybe with your cam , pistion, oil , and head designs I could make more hp
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