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Discussion Starter #1
I have a sbc with a YSI on it, the mounting bracket that came with the kit is way flimsey. so to help I put a head unit brace to the crank and that made the serpintine setup work good but it would slip when tryin to make higher boost. to get some boost numbers I put a cog setup on it, the problem is that Ive ripped up 4 cog belts now and havent made a full pass yet:smt093. I made some changes and put the head unit brace in place and thought that would help but Im still throwin belts. why did vortech put out a kit that will not hold a belt? the ford stuff is solid but the sbc stuff is horrible. Im gonna add another plate to the mounting plate like I seen a pic on here of, if that dont work I may be switching to procharger. its not like ive spared expense to make this work but nothing has worked yet. (rant over)
 

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I have a sbc with a YSI on it, the mounting bracket that came with the kit is way flimsey. so to help I put a head unit brace to the crank and that made the serpintine setup work good but it would slip when tryin to make higher boost. to get some boost numbers I put a cog setup on it, the problem is that Ive ripped up 4 cog belts now and havent made a full pass yet:smt093. I made some changes and put the head unit brace in place and thought that would help but Im still throwin belts. why did vortech put out a kit that will not hold a belt? the ford stuff is solid but the sbc stuff is horrible. Im gonna add another plate to the mounting plate like I seen a pic on here of, if that dont work I may be switching to procharger. its not like ive spared expense to make this work but nothing has worked yet. (rant over)
I had several problems like this. Ruined 5-6 belts.

Got it working finally.
1) Added 1 idle pulley (now two)
2) Doubled the bracket
3) shims between bracket and block. Took a while to get the right amount of shims so the belt stopped move around.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
what step made the biggest difference? the pic you posted was the one I seen that has the plate Im thinkin of adding, is that a aluminum or steel plate? why did you put spacers at the block? I have another idler pulley I could add with addtion of the plate. how do you adjust your belt tension? while I was on the dyno recently I was able to watch my belt under acceleration and it kinda move back and forth a lil bit while making a pull but when reving in park its solid. take it to the track and its over. how tight do you run the belt?
 

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Vortech has came out with a new dual plate upgrade. This upgrade will allow current gen II brackets to be upgraded so we can run 50mm cog drive set ups. Also has a good tensioner as well. Pretty much like what awes has in his pics above. PM me if your interested.

Chris Schmidl

C.Schmidl performance
Vortech Dealer
 

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Sell it, buy a procharger blowoff valve, precision 66mm gate, and a 91.5-94mm turbo and then you'll be worried about tire spin instead of belt slippage
 

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what step made the biggest difference? the pic you posted was the one I seen that has the plate Im thinkin of adding, is that a aluminum or steel plate? why did you put spacers at the block? I have another idler pulley I could add with addtion of the plate. how do you adjust your belt tension? while I was on the dyno recently I was able to watch my belt under acceleration and it kinda move back and forth a lil bit while making a pull but when reving in park its solid. take it to the track and its over. how tight do you run the belt?
The extra plate stopped the construction to flex, and the shims help with final tiny adjustment to get the axles (crank and blower) absolutely parallel (both needed. I kept throw belts and rip teeth with just the extra plate as the belt moved back and forth because of a very small un-parallelism.)
The spaces are there to produce a "frame structure" that will hold more stress when the belt try to bend the construction. The extra plate is 12-15mm aluminium (forgot exactly). Now it is rock solid.
The lower pulleys has a slotted hole in the plate and that is how I adjust tension.
I can twist the belt about 1/8 of a turn.

I see about 19psi at the hat, after piping and a A/W intercooler.
 

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I have a sbc with a YSI on it, the mounting bracket that came with the kit is way flimsey. so to help I put a head unit brace to the crank and that made the serpintine setup work good but it would slip when tryin to make higher boost. to get some boost numbers I put a cog setup on it, the problem is that Ive ripped up 4 cog belts now and havent made a full pass yet:smt093. I made some changes and put the head unit brace in place and thought that would help but Im still throwin belts. why did vortech put out a kit that will not hold a belt? the ford stuff is solid but the sbc stuff is horrible. Im gonna add another plate to the mounting plate like I seen a pic on here of, if that dont work I may be switching to procharger. its not like ive spared expense to make this work but nothing has worked yet. (rant over)
I remember your problems with the serp. setup on a yellowbullet thread last year. I posted the same problems that I had with vortech and the large sum of money and time to try and make that serp. a ysi (at peak rpm) on the street hold (22psi). It is a pain in the bass I was never so pissed at vortech and the product that after two years I sold it all and went procharger. Zero issues now 2yrs later on the procharger.

With me it boils down to the internal ratio in the vortech vs. the procharger. Vortech thinks that a tiny pulley on the headunit is better and Procharger uses a large pulley for increased surface area on the belt. Look at the roots blowers do you see those guys running a 2.8 pulley.


It seems to me that over the years vortech has lost alot of business on this issue.


I feel ur pain :smt072
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sell it, buy a procharger blowoff valve, precision 66mm gate, and a 91.5-94mm turbo and then you'll be worried about tire spin instead of belt slippage
thanks for the tip, I wanna see you get that ironed out first so I can learn from your setup along the way:smt066
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The extra plate stopped the construction to flex, and the shims help with final tiny adjustment to get the axles (crank and blower) absolutely parallel (both needed. I kept throw belts and rip teeth with just the extra plate as the belt moved back and forth because of a very small un-parallelism.)
The spaces are there to produce a "frame structure" that will hold more stress when the belt try to bend the construction. The extra plate is 12-15mm aluminium (forgot exactly). Now it is rock solid.
The lower pulleys has a slotted hole in the plate and that is how I adjust tension.
I can twist the belt about 1/8 of a turn.

I see about 19psi at the hat, after piping and a A/W intercooler.
what was you referencing to check the parallel of the head unit shaft vs the crank snout?
 

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what was you referencing to check the parallel of the head unit shaft vs the crank snout?
Not very sophisticated method:)
First I ensure my pulleys where 100% "square".
After that I put in some effort to ensure my crank pulley where not jumping around with an indicator clock. Not sure if I done anything wrong there to start with but it was actually wobbling a bit. See this post, sounds like "my problem"

Then a straight-edge between crank and head unit pulleys.
And lastly running the engine. Added skims until the belt stopped moving back and forth.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
thanks for the replies, I cant believe that vortech actually tried this setup out before they started selling it! Im gonna see what the new vortech plate kit cost, and either buy that or build my own plate to try to get this going properly. if that dont work all this setup minus my bv57 will be in the for sale section.
 
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