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Discussion Starter #1
Hi gus I have been building a street strip 55 chev for a bit and am getting set to order a whipple 510r for a big block chev has anybody put 1 on with the whipple intake and if so is it the same placement as a typical 871. I want to make sure I get the right drive for it. I am in canada and it would suck to get the wrong stuff sent here. I need to keep it as tight to the motor as possible so I can run a good sized rad and fan /shroud been talking to whipple and bds but so far haven't got an exact this is what you need
 

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You ever get this sorted?

Pro Stock Performance in Edmonton builds a lot of blower motors so something as common as a BBC drive may be easier to locate in Canada to save all the border hassles.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I recieved my 510r and got a bds manifold and sure enough the by pass valve hits the distributer if I turn the bypass upside down and do some notching I may be able to get by if I get msd small distributer I could go crank trigger and crab cap but then I loose the mechanical advance I could get the bds 1 inch forward adapter plate but then I have a manifold to bds adapter to whipple adapter to blower not where I want to be. more with the added height as it is already taller than a roots so after all this typing I am asking if someone has similar experience and had anyone done this using another blower manifold also if I use the whipple manifold I have been told it is not a good choice without the intercooler because of fuel distribution and also it is three inches further ahead which I have been told by bds will mean moving the lower pulley ahead which is not good as far as rad fitment. I am seriously looking at making my own adapter but could really use some help from people who have run this blower on a big block chev need to work it out soon I only have about 2 weeks to return the bds intake if that's the route to go thx Dana ps I could run no bypass but I hope to street drive this a fair bit
 

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This will help you if its vacuum can hitting the distributor . You can unbolt the bypass
and rotate, this puts the vacuum canister on the passenger side.
You will have to make a new bracket to hold the vacuum canister and make a new lever for the valve. If you post your email I can send you a picture of how it looks after this modification .
Will it clear after doing this? I dont know , I had to do this because of the vacuum can hitting the fire wall. If its the can that hits you can do what I did and get it to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thx for the reply actually one of the first things I tried was rotating the valve but no good the aluminum mounting flange hits. May be we have different bypasses.my email is [email protected] any pics would be appreciated. also since I first posted I have checked a wiend manifold and it would be in the same place. I am off to the drags tomorrow and will be looking for a blower shop manifold to see if its different . And I'll be dammed if I can figure out how to post pictures I'll post some when I do
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I do not have the drive yet I am working out the positioning first I would rather not use a spacer as I have channelled the body and that coupled with the taller whipple is going to position it high enough as is. Looks like I will either use a crank trigger or use the bds shift forward 1 inch adapter to the whipple adapter which will raise it 5/8 inch higher but as I've said I'm not thrilled with adapter to an adapter. I am currently waiting for bds to send me drawings of their adapter to make sure it will work. If I make a new adapter it's not as simple as it sounds as the whipple adapter has threaded bosses in it similar to valve guide bosses to bolt the thing together it would take a bit of matchining nothing hard but time consuming and expensive . I was hoping someone else would have used a different manifold that works but that does not seem to be the case and as I've said the bds and wiend seem the same and I have not got my hands on a blower shop one
 

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I can get you a measurement on tbs manifold. I might be able to get it tomorrow. The weiand manifolds have generally been one of the lower ones from what I remember.
 

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It appears that there is sufficient material on the TBS Competition Manifold that you could drill & tap to relocate the blower forward without an adapter plate.
 

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Someone posted a photo (few years ago) of the whipple bypass on a thread on here it was machined down (notched) to clear?? 3DTIM maybe??
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Gtashief it's the front to rear measurement that counts mine is 1.5 inches I believe from the front blower mounting hole to the furthest forward intake mounting hole if you can get that it would be great thx. flusher I'm not sure about this but I believe a competition manifold does not have a provision for a tstat not good for the street as far as I know
 

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flusher I'm not sure about this but I believe a competition manifold does not have a provision for a tstat not good for the street as far as I know
My mistake about the thermostat, but the rails where the blower stud holes are drilled & tapped appears to have sufficient material to relocate the holes. You definitely can not do that to every manifold though, Weiand for example. Just trying to give you alternatives.



I do not have the drive yet I am working out the positioning first I would rather not use a spacer as I have channelled the body and that coupled with the taller whipple is going to position it high enough as is. Looks like I will either use a crank trigger or use the bds shift forward 1 inch adapter to the whipple adapter which will raise it 5/8 inch higher but as I've said I'm not thrilled with adapter to an adapter. I am currently waiting for bds to send me drawings of their adapter to make sure it will work. If I make a new adapter it's not as simple as it sounds as the whipple adapter has threaded bosses in it similar to valve guide bosses to bolt the thing together it would take a bit of matchining nothing hard but time consuming and expensive . I was hoping someone else would have used a different manifold that works but that does not seem to be the case and as I've said the bds and wiend seem the same and I have not got my hands on a blower shop one
Looking at https://whipplesuperchargers.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=244 , I now have a better understanding of what you are saying. If I were in your situation, fitment being of utmost importance, I would make one adapter plate that replaced the Whipple plate AND that same plate would position the blower exactly where I wanted it.

The features you describe as "similar to valve guide bosses," though a nice attention to detail, I do not believe are critical to fit, form, and function. Assuming you would be working on a conventional mill or with typical home hobbyist tooling, the design could be simplified to better facilitate production. Even conventionally, if you wanted those features, you could rough them square with a ball end mill and shape them with a die grinder.

I would replace or reduce the tapered transition, into the intake manifold, with a generous radius. Sharp corners seem detrimental to flow in this area. I have never liked the sharp corners in anything with the word "adapter" in the name. You could mill this conventionally or by hand with a 4" grinder and die grinder.

Mate this to whatever manifold you feel best suits your needs.

I think your real limitation is going to be the crankshaft pulley; the stack of pulleys, balancer, crank trigger et al. Depending on how far forward you push the blower, for distributor clearance. Combine that with the shortest drive snout, it's possible that you might need a pulley spacer. Mocking it up will let you know exactly where you stand.

I think you can handle it, it's not as hard as you think it is.

Good luck,

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Flusher thx for the reply if you picture the adapter the opening is tapered for flow and the bosses I talk about are there to thread the bolts into it's kinda hard to describe it I played machinest for a year so I have a good idea of what I'm up against I know it can be done just a pain to do i was just hoping someone else would know if a different manifold will work
 

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A TBS setup that has a thermostat provision was at our shop yesterday. I took some quick measurements for you. Above the #1 cylinder,:

The front manifold bolt to the front blower bolt is 1.375"

With an ATI damper and a single groove pulley, the timing cover surface of the block to the back of the belt is 4"

NOTE: the rear of the belt was against the V-groove pulley.

From the front cover of the blower to the back of the belt is 2.75"

There appears to be enough material on the manifold to relocate the blower studs forward 3/4" to 1"
 
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