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Looking for opinions on the various cheaper 408 Kits.
Eagle with SRP pistons
Callies Compstar with Wiseco
Texas Speed with Wiseco
K1 Technologies

NA build with LS3/L92 Heads, on Alcohol

What would be your target Compression Ratio?
 

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I used a Callies budget kit on my last build. Compstar crank, Compstar rods, Bullet CP pistons and Clevite bearings. It measured out nice and is holding up nicely at the 900-950 HP level. One thing I would recommend is make sure you get the optional billet reluctor wheel.
 

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As others mentioned, billet wheel welded on. I learned that one the hard way.

Compstar crank and rods, wiseco pistons, clevite bearings, I'm happy with it all.
 

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As others mentioned, billet wheel welded on. I learned that one the hard way.

Compstar crank and rods, wiseco pistons, clevite bearings, I'm happy with it all.
I'd love to think that was true 100% of the time. I had the 24x wheel pressed off my brand new Eagle crank and had a billet one installed and welded on. Very long story short, I ended up having to put an external crank trigger on it cause that nice billet piece wasn't so nice.

It was absolutely no fault of the billet wheel itself, or even the crankshaft for that matter. So I'm not trying to deter anyone from going the internal trigger wheel route. Just check the run out on it and make sure it is on there good and straight before assembling the motor. 0.025" run out isn't gonna get you past 6000 rpm on something with big power.
 

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You might take a look at Molnar Technology for rods and cranks. Very smart guy runs it. He used to work at Oliver and is former owner of K-1. His designs are recent and uses good forgings for the price. He works mainly thru engine builders and machine shops, but is accessible to the average guy looking for a better quality pieces than Eagle or Scat. He will build balanced rotating assemblies.
 

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I'd love to think that was true 100% of the time. I had the 24x wheel pressed off my brand new Eagle crank and had a billet one installed and welded on. Very long story short, I ended up having to put an external crank trigger on it cause that nice billet piece wasn't so nice.

It was absolutely no fault of the billet wheel itself, or even the crankshaft for that matter. So I'm not trying to deter anyone from going the internal trigger wheel route. Just check the run out on it and make sure it is on there good and straight before assembling the motor. 0.025" run out isn't gonna get you past 6000 rpm on something with big power.
After I had my billet wheel welded on, I checked runout and I know that I was well within the safe range for it but I cannot remember the number anymore. I originally got the crank with a bent oem wheel so they shipped another free of charge. Had that installed and it loosened up in 90 miles and found out that it only had .003 interference fit ( I think it is soposed to be .007) so Callie's sent me a free billet 24 tooth that I had welded. I think that I was under .007 runout in the end but it's been years.
 

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Mine was really a freaky stupid issue. I had a local shop install the billet wheel. Matter of fact they did it while I waited and was able to watch the whole process. They de-burred the landing surface on the crankshaft to make sure there were no high spots. Heated the new billet wheel and installed with the correct tool. chucked it up in the lathe and the fucking thing had 0.040" of run out. The dude acted like he didn't know why it was fucked so I pointed out that heating the wheel with an acetylene/oxygen rig might not have been the best choice especially since he barley moved the flame around and just heated the fuck out of one local area. When I saw him doing this I kept my mouth shut. I'm not the kind of guy to show up with parts and instruct the shop on how to install them. That is their business and should know best. Well, it was so fucked, he pulled that wheel off and started off with another new one. He was a little better with the cutting torch to warm it up this time. Chucked it up and it still had about 0.025" runout. He assured me that 0.025" run out was well within spec and that they have never had any issues with other wheels with this much runout. This lead me on a 6 month quest to figure out why my new Holley EFI system would freak out and completely shut off around 6000 rpm when the blower was hooked up. There is a ton of info I wrote about on this site looking for help and no matter what was recommended (I tried everything) and could never get it to act better or even different. I was able to even get Holley involved in the matter and they couldn't see anything wrong with my tune up. It's impossible for me to constantly drive this thing around the block to test and get data logs as this is a race car with a solid roller cam, an F2 Procharger and open headers. so I decided to pull the motor and put the thing on an engine dyno. I didn't run the motor with the blower on the engine dyno and boom first pull.....clean to 7500 rpm with no issues. So, I took the motor home, slammed it back in and ran it around the block with the blower belt off and it ran perfect. There the belt on and bam, dead at 6000 rpm.

Completely fed up with the whole situation, I decided to install an external MSD 4-magnet wheel on the front of the motor with one of Holley's hall effect sensor. Took the truck out with the blower belt on it....and bam clean pulls to 8000 rpm.

My final opinion on the problem is this. .025" run out on the internal wheel might be fine in something that doesn't make a ton of power. However, when I had the blower hooked up, it was making enough power to start flexing the crank (turning it into a wet noodle). This minor flexing with a wheel that was already on the edge of too much run out was just enough to create a situation where the run out was suddenly being "flexed" outside of the workable specs.
 

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Wow, what a mess. The engine shop that I used heated the wheel in the oven before using that tool to locate it before welding. Then he rebalanced the crank for free. I'm just a slow Na motor, can't afford to go big power for many years but will keep this info in mind.
 

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Mine was really a freaky stupid issue. I had a local shop install the billet wheel. Matter of fact they did it while I waited and was able to watch the whole process. They de-burred the landing surface on the crankshaft to make sure there were no high spots. Heated the new billet wheel and installed with the correct tool. chucked it up in the lathe and the fucking thing had 0.040" of run out. The dude acted like he didn't know why it was fucked so I pointed out that heating the wheel with an acetylene/oxygen rig might not have been the best choice especially since he barley moved the flame around and just heated the fuck out of one local area. When I saw him doing this I kept my mouth shut. I'm not the kind of guy to show up with parts and instruct the shop on how to install them. That is their business and should know best. Well, it was so fucked, he pulled that wheel off and started off with another new one. He was a little better with the cutting torch to warm it up this time. Chucked it up and it still had about 0.025" runout. He assured me that 0.025" run out was well within spec and that they have never had any issues with other wheels with this much runout. This lead me on a 6 month quest to figure out why my new Holley EFI system would freak out and completely shut off around 6000 rpm when the blower was hooked up. There is a ton of info I wrote about on this site looking for help and no matter what was recommended (I tried everything) and could never get it to act better or even different. I was able to even get Holley involved in the matter and they couldn't see anything wrong with my tune up. It's impossible for me to constantly drive this thing around the block to test and get data logs as this is a race car with a solid roller cam, an F2 Procharger and open headers. so I decided to pull the motor and put the thing on an engine dyno. I didn't run the motor with the blower on the engine dyno and boom first pull.....clean to 7500 rpm with no issues. So, I took the motor home, slammed it back in and ran it around the block with the blower belt off and it ran perfect. There the belt on and bam, dead at 6000 rpm.

Completely fed up with the whole situation, I decided to install an external MSD 4-magnet wheel on the front of the motor with one of Holley's hall effect sensor. Took the truck out with the blower belt on it....and bam clean pulls to 8000 rpm.

My final opinion on the problem is this. .025" run out on the internal wheel might be fine in something that doesn't make a ton of power. However, when I had the blower hooked up, it was making enough power to start flexing the crank (turning it into a wet noodle). This minor flexing with a wheel that was already on the edge of too much run out was just enough to create a situation where the run out was suddenly being "flexed" outside of the workable specs.

the 24x pattern is a hall switch, so it goes high and low by the teeth, if the track is a bit off, it can cause the sensor to flake out, and I think the design is fucking stupid as well, the best way to fix it would be to use a pull up and a standard sensor and a single track 24x wheel with a late moedl 58x sensor, I have done this on a few lt1 conversions, works like the cats ass.
 

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Mine was really a freaky stupid issue. I had a local shop install the billet wheel. Matter of fact they did it while I waited and was able to watch the whole process. They de-burred the landing surface on the crankshaft to make sure there were no high spots. Heated the new billet wheel and installed with the correct tool. chucked it up in the lathe and the fucking thing had 0.040" of run out. The dude acted like he didn't know why it was fucked so I pointed out that heating the wheel with an acetylene/oxygen rig might not have been the best choice especially since he barley moved the flame around and just heated the fuck out of one local area. When I saw him doing this I kept my mouth shut. I'm not the kind of guy to show up with parts and instruct the shop on how to install them. That is their business and should know best. Well, it was so fucked, he pulled that wheel off and started off with another new one. He was a little better with the cutting torch to warm it up this time. Chucked it up and it still had about 0.025" runout. He assured me that 0.025" run out was well within spec and that they have never had any issues with other wheels with this much runout. This lead me on a 6 month quest to figure out why my new Holley EFI system would freak out and completely shut off around 6000 rpm when the blower was hooked up. There is a ton of info I wrote about on this site looking for help and no matter what was recommended (I tried everything) and could never get it to act better or even different. I was able to even get Holley involved in the matter and they couldn't see anything wrong with my tune up. It's impossible for me to constantly drive this thing around the block to test and get data logs as this is a race car with a solid roller cam, an F2 Procharger and open headers. so I decided to pull the motor and put the thing on an engine dyno. I didn't run the motor with the blower on the engine dyno and boom first pull.....clean to 7500 rpm with no issues. So, I took the motor home, slammed it back in and ran it around the block with the blower belt off and it ran perfect. There the belt on and bam, dead at 6000 rpm.

Completely fed up with the whole situation, I decided to install an external MSD 4-magnet wheel on the front of the motor with one of Holley's hall effect sensor. Took the truck out with the blower belt on it....and bam clean pulls to 8000 rpm.

My final opinion on the problem is this. .025" run out on the internal wheel might be fine in something that doesn't make a ton of power. However, when I had the blower hooked up, it was making enough power to start flexing the crank (turning it into a wet noodle). This minor flexing with a wheel that was already on the edge of too much run out was just enough to create a situation where the run out was suddenly being "flexed" outside of the workable specs.


i think i remember reading about your struggles before, or others with similar. good info to know!! :smt038
 
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