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Discussion Starter #1
just got the staging assist wired up on the roadster. anyone got any idea where to start for a baseline?. the software opens up with parameters maxed out. I just don't want to screw something up.
 

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Not being a dick, but the instructions and overview from Holley give a really good starting point and approach on how to tune it, you could start there and probably get it correct in your driveway.

So many variables.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
you are not being a dick, honk. I understand where you are coming from. too many people just don't RTFM. however, I did.

finally got in touch with the holley tech guy that I trust. he explained what the overview said. but, I already understood that. I was just worried about the other adjustments listed. mainly frequency. he said that it really didn't need to be adjusted since I was using the relay that the system was built around. so now I am ready to start tinkering with it.

I tend to err on the side of caution when I am unsure of things. I tear up alot less shit that way.
 

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mainly frequency. he said that it really didn't need to be adjusted since I was using the relay that the system was built around.
Frequency is a function of the solenoid being used and has nothing to do with the relay. Generally speaking once frequency is set you don't ever touch it again but you need a decent starting point. IF the supplier of your trans brake solenoid doesn't have a good frequency for you to start with I would suggest putting in 20hz as a baseline.

Staging assist is not a one size fits all situation so you may need to play with settings for a while before you get it working how you like.
 

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you are not being a dick, honk. I understand where you are coming from. too many people just don't RTFM. however, I did.

finally got in touch with the holley tech guy that I trust. he explained what the overview said. but, I already understood that. I was just worried about the other adjustments listed. mainly frequency. he said that it really didn't need to be adjusted since I was using the relay that the system was built around. so now I am ready to start tinkering with it.

I tend to err on the side of caution when I am unsure of things. I tear up alot less shit that way.

Sure feels good when you ask a "dumb" question but end up saving yourself a ton of headache right?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Frequency is a function of the solenoid being used and has nothing to do with the relay. Generally speaking once frequency is set you don't ever touch it again but you need a decent starting point. IF the supplier of your trans brake solenoid doesn't have a good frequency for you to start with I would suggest putting in 20hz as a baseline.

Staging assist is not a one size fits all situation so you may need to play with settings for a while before you get it working how you like.
I will try that.

so far, per Ty, I left the frequency at 999 and played with the duty cycle as the holley overview says. until I get the duty cycle below 60% it does not move. but at 60% it is very violent. my car has a bracket race style brake, not a pro tree brake. will frequency help me smooth it out any?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
couldn't wait til tomorrow. had to try it tonight. 20hz was the magic number and 50% on the duty cycle. she eases forward slow and smooth now. a big thanks to Ryan W.
 

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Frequency is a function of the solenoid being used and has nothing to do with the relay. Generally speaking once frequency is set you don't ever touch it again but you need a decent starting point. IF the supplier of your trans brake solenoid doesn't have a good frequency for you to start with I would suggest putting in 20hz as a baseline.

Staging assist is not a one size fits all situation so you may need to play with settings for a while before you get it working how you like.

20 hz is too high....
start art 10hz...
then 1% = .001

typical .017 to get a good brake to creep
if it doesnt move by 50%
change hz to 5 and start at 75% and work down

at 5hz.. 1% = .002

a lot of transbrakes dont creep and you will find that it doesnt move till .125 or .150
 

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Discussion Starter #9
S2H, it is creeping nice and slow at 20hz and 50% right now. do I need to change it?
 

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if its working....you dont need to change it

but just for reference...
20 hz means each pulse = .050 seconds
20 hz means each 1% = 0.0005 seconds
so your 50% means you are using a pulse time of .025 per pulse

similar results would happen at 10hz and 75% duty because it equals the same time off of .025
but it would roll forward slower because the pulses would be at a slower interval
 

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So if I wanted mine to calm down/be softer I would just need to lower hz and up the duty cycle?
I’m at 16hz and 85% right now...one bump and I’m staged but its a lil on the edge of being violent for me
 

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So if I wanted mine to calm down/be softer I would just need to lower hz and up the duty cycle?
I’m at 16hz and 85% right now...one bump and I’m staged but its a lil on the edge of being violent for me
some trans brakes are not smooth and never will be....

Frequency 16 0.063
Time per 1% 0.0006
Duty ON 85 0.053
Duty OFF 15 0.009


what you are at now is the same as 10hz @ 91%


Frequency 10 0.100
Time per 1% 0.0010
Duty ON 91 0.091
Duty OFF 9 0.009
 

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some trans brakes are not smooth and never will be....

Frequency 16 0.063
Time per 1% 0.0006
Duty ON 85 0.053
Duty OFF 15 0.009


what you are at now is the same as 10hz @ 91%


Frequency 10 0.100
Time per 1% 0.0010
Duty ON 91 0.091
Duty OFF 9 0.009
Thanks, I’ll put that in next time and see if it’s any softer...my converter is really tight so I’m sure that doesn’t help either.
 

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Thanks, I’ll put that in next time and see if it’s any softer...my converter is really tight so I’m sure that doesn’t help either.

to me... that time seems Unusually short....
which means its probably not actually pulsing the transbrake properly....
which means you are getting a bigger bump from it than the .009
its probably acting more like a wave pattern that adds up over a few pulses because the pulses are faster than it can actually physically move
think of it like a progressive slip amount that finally gets to the point where it lets go and then it re-grabs...

try it at 10hz and 85% to start... if it doesnt move, go lower a few percent at a time
if it moves too much, take the percentage larger
each 1% will be a .001 second...and a lot of brakes seem to like it in the .015~.022 range
 

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to me... that time seems Unusually short....
which means its probably not actually pulsing the transbrake properly....
which means you are getting a bigger bump from it than the .009
its probably acting more like a wave pattern that adds up over a few pulses because the pulses are faster than it can actually physically move
think of it like a progressive slip amount that finally gets to the point where it lets go and then it re-grabs...

try it at 10hz and 85% to start... if it doesnt move, go lower a few percent at a time
if it moves too much, take the percentage larger
each 1% will be a .001 second...and a lot of brakes seem to like it in the .015~.022 range

It’s setup with the Holley, pwm setup, besides that idk what anything else means as far as how it works or setup...
 

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I find it incredible that yet again the Holley information provided and the information from professionals that set up hundreds of cars differs so much.
 

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I find it incredible that yet again the Holley information provided and the information from professionals that set up hundreds of cars differs so much.
I suspect this is due to the wide variation in the hardware being used...transmissions...torque converters...trans brakes...etc...

Andrew
 

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SO just seeing how many using the V5 software with the bump has been successful with it under pressure rpm/boost using the "ease/creep" method? If so can you elaborate a little with what worked for you. Thanks
 

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some trans brakes are not smooth and never will be....

Frequency 16 0.063
Time per 1% 0.0006
Duty ON 85 0.053
Duty OFF 15 0.009


what you are at now is the same as 10hz @ 91%


Frequency 10 0.100
Time per 1% 0.0010
Duty ON 91 0.091
Duty OFF 9 0.009
I didn’t mess with the frequency, just moving from 85% to 87% made it go from a violent 5-6in jump (pre stage to stage), to a very soft 1in or so move, car looks smooth now.
 
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