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Discussion Starter #1
I have a Rule 2000 bilge pump in a aluminum tank, for the engine water. First time starting her last night, Never did it go over 130-140* but it seemed like a hot tub back there. At what temp. does that pump stop working. i know they are made for salt water, but i dont know if they are made for HOT water. It also seem like to much pressure, i prolly need a smaller one. and should i bring a spare?

Need help please?
 

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ls1 s/s notch on 28s
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do you got a valve on the end of the pump to control flow?how long where you running the car for? have ice water in it?..if you think about it you really dont have hot water in there long anyways
 

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You may need to slow flow down, The pump should be fine many have been used for pumping out hot shower water, hot bildges.


This is a nice pump .

Rule 1500 G.P.H. Gold Series Bilge Pump (if you are buying a spare)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
do you got a valve on the end of the pump to control flow?how long where you running the car for? have ice water in it?..if you think about it you really dont have hot water in there long anyways
No, i have no valve, which side di i put it. TO the engine, or on the return side, and do i use a ball valve?

I think it did good for how long had it on, and i think it will be fine at the track, it just seemed like the pump prolly couldnt take to many times.

No i didnt have ice in it this time, but at the track i will prolly dump alittle in it befor a run.

Then i was thinking of building a removeable radiator to cool it back down between rounds, so i dont have to spend $30 in ice a run to cool it back down.
thanks for the info
 

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1. you need to have ice in the tank,
2. you need a ball valve or any shut off valve in the line going to the motor, this will help you adjust the flow so you can get the engine temps during a run at the desired temps
3. you need a min -10 vent to the back of the car, so incase you blow a head gasket, the pressure has somewhere to escape
4. that pump will handle it no problem, it does not get that hot in the tank when you have ice in it, and youre not running it that long

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #6
1. you need to have ice in the tank,
2. you need a ball valve or any shut off valve in the line going to the motor, this will help you adjust the flow so you can get the engine temps during a run at the desired temps
3. you need a min -10 vent to the back of the car, so incase you blow a head gasket, the pressure has somewhere to escape
4. that pump will handle it no problem, it does not get that hot in the tank when you have ice in it, and youre not running it that long

Rob
The -10 line, where does that tie into the engine. I have the in coming line going to the water pump holes, and out the water neckhole.

 

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ls1 s/s notch on 28s
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-10 line from the water cell..that way if you pressurize the system from a hurt motor the air can exscape out the -10.

you dont need to do a line seeing yours is in the bed..just install a -10 an let it air to the atomisphere
 

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Discussion Starter #8
-10 line from the water cell..that way if you pressurize the system from a hurt motor the air can exscape out the -10.

you dont need to do a line seeing yours is in the bed..just install a -10 an let it air to the atomisphere
Nice, that explained alot.
 

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Anyone have any additional info? I have a rule pump that seems to be breaking down at the end of the run. I like to get my oil temps up before any runs are made and the water temp gets warm. Fill it full of ice, make the run and the pump works at the end of the run, I shut the pump off, and wont restart again. Cooling the pump back off seems to help but then it will only restart randomly. The next day the pump works just fine 100% of the time. Is it possible I am heat soaking the pump durning warmup?
 
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