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SB2.2 + pt106
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
www.4rsfed.com/notraction.wmv (give it a minute to load)

front single adjustable qa1s set to loose so the front pops up
rear has double adjustable qals compression at 18clicks of 24 and rebound 0 of 24
Drag radials
Caltracs on bottom hole
ideas on what to change? to get it to hook?
 

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Why is the rear shock rebound set at zero? Also, looks like the front end has very limited travel. Appears to be about 3" or so at the most. Looks to me as it starts spinning as the front end touches down.

My own guess is to tighten the rear rebound some and get more travel in the front end.

EDIT: upon watching again, it did appear to spin while the front end was up, but got worse as the front end came down.

What's the engine/driveline combination?
 

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SB2.2 + pt106
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Why is the rear shock rebound set at zero? Also, looks like the front end has very limited travel. Appears to be about 3" or so at the most. Looks to me as it starts spinning as the front end touches down.

My own guess is to tighten the rear rebound some and get more travel in the front end.

EDIT: upon watching again, it did appear to spin while the front end was up, but got worse as the front end came down.

What's the engine/driveline combination?


why is it the setting its at?? just a couple recommendations from other people, but its not working out too much it seems.

The setup in short simple form is 88mm gt57 turbo, 408 sbc, ptc convertor, turbo400 with brake, ford9" with 3.50 gears.

thanks for all the help guys
 

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welcome to the radial world... I have that same video of my car... a 7531 box or little black box that has Davis on may help...
 

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If you watch, it hits the tire then the shock lets it back off immediately, the rear shocks need to be stiffer on compression and more air in the tires the wheel moves big time in the tire, but does not plant it, the front end does not have enough travel, What’s been done up front, Most Drag Radial Problems are from the front end. Does it even have sub frame connectors, the fender is bending with all the flex you have going on. What kind of pinion angle do
 

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SB2.2 + pt106
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1,928 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you watch, it hits the tire then the shock lets it back off immediately, the rear shocks need to be stiffer on compression and more air in the tires the wheel moves big time in the tire, but does not plant it, the front end does not have enough travel, What’s been done up front, Most Drag Radial Problems are from the front end. Does it even have sub frame connectors, the fender is bending with all the flex you have going on. What kind of pinion angle do


its got 14# in the tire when its hot.

i see what your saying on the rebound.

Up front has QAL coilover kit that mounts to the factory control arm and uses a tapered spring to sit in the upper factory mount. It doesnt have all that much travel.

Car has Chris Alston subframe connectors and a 10point cage that has been certified.

Which fender is bending, i didnt see that.

Not sure on the pinion angle i would need to measure that.

Thanks for the observations!
 

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Big Block Killer
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off topic.....

That vid give me horible flashbacks of Sac Raceway

O.k. continue
 

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x2 on incorrect shock adjustment. The tire is not being controlled in the back period....
 

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Big Block Killer
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What the hell happened to the rest of my post?

Anyway, the car seems to hit the tires and then immediately unloads. Adjust the rebound on the rear so the car doesn't unload so fast.
 

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Look at the left front fender gap on the launch

You would be better off with a different spring and shock in the front, it also has some bump steer issues it toes out bad, do you have drop spindles on it?

I would put some TRZ control arms on it or the cheeper route is to put De-lum bushing in from Global West to get rid of the rubber up front you have to get some travel, raise the air in the tire to about 17lbs and tighten the shocks up in the back put about 5-6 degree's pinion angle in it you can work your way back on that
 

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I had some issues with mine doing something similer.

It would get the front end in the air too quick. and the tires would spin with the front end in the air.

I tightned the front 1 click and now the car plants the tire. front comes up on the spring then drives the front tires up in the air. has been working very well on a OK track.

Tim

Tim
 

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if you put the caltracs in the top hole it hits the tire harder.i was told by caltracs to go to the bottom if it wheel stands.i agree with the tighter shocks on the rear.i run the 315 m/t on mine and 17 to 18 psi.so far my car is quicker on the radial then slicks.
 

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SB2.2 + pt106
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks guys for the replys!!!!!

Look at the left front fender gap on the launch

You would be better off with a different spring and shock in the front, it also has some bump steer issues it toes out bad, do you have drop spindles on it?

I would put some TRZ control arms on it or the cheeper route is to put De-lum bushing in from Global West to get rid of the rubber up front you have to get some travel, raise the air in the tire to about 17lbs and tighten the shocks up in the back put about 5-6 degree's pinion angle in it you can work your way back on that


The car in the front has Tubular upper control arms from global west with the delalum bushings. IT has a stock lower control arm, and has delalum bushings in the lower one also.

Im calling calvert tomorrow to get some of their 90/10s and some moroso trick springs.

It has stock spindles on the car. with the qa1 bolt in coil over kit


Also where is the pin located in relationship to the leaf spring with someone in the car.
Is it on it, or is there an air gap?

their is 1 turn of preload on both sides of the cal tracs with me sitting in the car.
 
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