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Discussion Starter #81
How much difference in leakdown do you see typically in say, .016" gap versus .020 in the top ring?
 

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How much difference in leakdown do you see typically in say, .016" gap versus .020 in the top ring?
You won't see any difference in leakdown with the top ring gapped at .016", versus .020" gap.
 

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Never noticed "torque plate installed" before on their instructions. Rings down 1" below deck seems unnecessary?
I don't gap rings with the torque plate installed. When gapping the rings, the heads nor the head fasteners are installed/torqued therefore the block and cylinder walls are "at rest". Once the long block is assembled and head fasteners are torqued, then the cylinder walls are round per the torque plate operation. Installing the torque plate will not have any affect on the final ring gap dimension, in my opinion.
 

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Never noticed "torque plate installed" before on their instructions. Rings down 1" below deck seems unnecessary?
Depends on proximity of the head bolt holes to the bore, Head bolt holes closer means more bore distortion, if you have a torque plate bolt it on and see for yourself and decide.
Of course if you don't look for it, it won't be there 😊
 

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i have never seen anything positive about a gapless ring, esp a gapless second.
it shouldnt lift a ring land, but it will unseat the top ring IMO.
I tried a gapless top, and even that was a mess for me. so we dont use them at all
BTW, if there was power in it, we would have done anything possible to use it in PS, and we didnt.
Just my feelings on it.
That's what I used to tell people when I worked at Childs & Albert back in the 1980s. I was constantly in trouble for it, but those rings never did anything but turn the oil scraper into a compression ring.
 

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My last combo had gapless top, napier second with diamond pistons in a 9.2 deck cleveland with 4" stroke and 6.2" rod, used oil like crazy. I've mentioned this before and got a few different suggestions/opinions but I will not be using gapless again.
Anyone care to explain why they don't work very well?
 

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In your case , I think your rods were too damn long, 1 Inch CD on a cleveland, not an ideal package.

I've used the total seal steel rings in gapless and std. there's no difference in power, but for dirt track stuff where they eat some dirt and you have to hone a couple thou. , it is nice to be able to reuse the top ring and not worry about gaps.
 

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Yes, I believe you probably told me that before. I switched to 6.0 rods from molnar with the correct offset but haven't decided on pistons/rings yet. So you've had success with the gapless top?
 

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They work ok for me, they're also nice for methanol. Honestly for a daily driver I like a 3/16 low tension oil ring 11-12 lbs .043 top .043 napier second, If you could fit a 3mm oil without a spacer that would be ok. The gapless top are about 50$ more so unless you have a reason to run them it may not be worth it.
 

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They work ok for me, they're also nice for methanol. Honestly for a daily driver I like a 3/16 low tension oil ring 11-12 lbs .043 top .043 napier second, If you could fit a 3mm oil without a spacer that would be ok. The gapless top are about 50$ more so unless you have a reason to run them it may not be worth it.
By spacer are you referring to when the oil ring gets into the pin hole?
 

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I’ve used the gapless top ring on the last 3 SS/Modified engines I ran. They worked fine, but you have to have the right hone on any ring to make any combo work. Don’t ask me what the right hone is. I was just lucky to have a guy do them that did know.
 
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