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As the title says... I'm guessing the 1480 is bigger,but by how much? and is it worth the difference in a 3000hp application?
 

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Just the answer i was looking for.. Thank you kindly.:smt023
 

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Run the 1480's i have broken 2 1350's in the turbo car and one in a nitro coupe none of they were very fun experiences.Moran was the one that started the 1480 deal several years back.I believe he made 3 runs and broke 3 u joints in testing
 

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mmm,that's interesting to know Jim.Thanks for the info..
 

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I would go to 1410 1st, before 1480....everything for 1480 is heavy.
The difference between them 1350 and 1480 tq rating wise is 1000 ft lbs, between the 1410 and 1480 it's 500 ft lbs . The 1480 vs the 1350 across are 4.188 to 3.625...caps are 1.375 vs 1.188...the tg rating on the bearings of each of these joints are within 400 ft lbs from 1350 to 1480


How did Moran and yourself Jim break the 1350... Exactly when did it break, as soon as the power was applied, or did you experience tire shake, or hop..
What exactly did the joint look like, where did it break on the cross body
 

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I've gone with the 1480 option. I spoke to Strange and they agreed with Jim on the turbo deal. They didn't offer a 1410 option and i didn't realise one was done. Weight isn't really an issue for me.My legs/body however are,and i'm more comfortable with heavier duty driveline parts..
We've also got a converter so torque multiplication at the startline is a bunch more than a clutch car.
 

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Was just talking to the guy at Carolina Driveline about this last night. He was very big on the 1480 in heavier cars.
 

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I've gone with the 1480 option. I spoke to Strange and they agreed with Jim on the turbo deal. They didn't offer a 1410 option and i didn't realise one was done. Weight isn't really an issue for me.My legs/body however are,and i'm more comfortable with heavier duty driveline parts..
We've also got a converter so torque multiplication at the startline is a bunch more than a clutch car.

Strange doesn't know about 1410, because they aren't a driveline specialist...

Are they doing the shaft in CF or AL or steel...

The 10 lbs in the driveline is worth more then you losing enough weight to be able to drive the car at 15 lbs....not 150 lbs , but 15 lbs.... 10 lbs in the driveline is equal to hundreds of pounds along for the ride...


Was just talking to the guy at Carolina Driveline about this last night. He was very big on the 1480 in heavier cars.
Whats heavy?..... lots of china in that shop....and not the china that belongs on the dinner table
 

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Strange doesn't know about 1410, because they aren't a driveline specialist...

Are they doing the shaft in CF or AL or steel...

The 10 lbs in the driveline is worth more then you losing enough weight to be able to drive the car at 15 lbs....not 150 lbs , but 15 lbs.... 10 lbs in the driveline is equal to hundreds of pounds along for the ride...




Whats heavy?..... lots of china in that shop....and not the china that belongs on the dinner table
OK,but they sell a lot of driveline parts no.
They are not making me anything,i'm buying the weld yokes/uj's/trans yoke and ultra centre section. We'll make the propshaft from 3.5" x .083" C/M in the UK.
I understand spinning weight gets heavier,but i also understand broken UJ's and propshafts take out sprags,cars and limbs.
Appreciate your input..:smt023
 

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I would go to 1410 1st, before 1480....everything for 1480 is heavy.
The difference between them 1350 and 1480 tq rating wise is 1000 ft lbs, between the 1410 and 1480 it's 500 ft lbs . The 1480 vs the 1350 across are 4.188 to 3.625...caps are 1.375 vs 1.188...the tg rating on the bearings of each of these joints are within 400 ft lbs from 1350 to 1480


How did Moran and yourself Jim break the 1350... Exactly when did it break, as soon as the power was applied, or did you experience tire shake, or hop..
What exactly did the joint look like, where did it break on the cross body
dont know about moran..............but my turbo car broke the front one soon as i plugged 3rd its a 5 speed.it was so violent my drive shaft cover was attached to 1 1/8 x tubes on the floor.it broke the tubes from the floor of the car bent the tail shaft on the trans broke the tail shaft and shifter mount was going well over 100 mph by the time i got it stopped the drive shaft shaft cover and a part of the floor bars were hitting the double frame rails and something smashed the cell phone that was in my pocket.Also had to replace both upper frame rails and a cell phone lol.I had a u joint cap laying on my dash looks like it broke the trunnion off of the main body.the second time we were at Houston shifted into 2nd boom it broke the front and back at the same time so no damage. Next day i called strange because i was told they made moran a special run of 1480 rear end and trans yokes.They had 8 of each left.the nitro coupe same deal shifted into 2nd boom. until you have experienced the noise ,sparks not knowing if something is going to hit you i would run a 1580 if they made it lol
 

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OK,but they sell a lot of driveline parts no.
They are not making me anything,i'm buying the weld yokes/uj's/trans yoke and ultra centre section. We'll make the propshaft from 3.5" x .083" C/M in the UK.
I understand spinning weight gets heavier,but i also understand broken UJ's and propshafts take out sprags,cars and limbs.
Appreciate your input..:smt023
Yep, if the weight is that big of a deal, turn up the wick...:smt077

Jim
 

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OK,but they sell a lot of driveline parts no.
They are not making me anything,i'm buying the weld yokes/uj's/trans yoke and ultra centre section. We'll make the propshaft from 3.5" x .083" C/M in the UK.
I understand spinning weight gets heavier,but i also understand broken UJ's and propshafts take out sprags,cars and limbs.
Appreciate your input..:smt023

How do you know you are using 3.5"....

What is the rpm and the length ? 3.5" after a certain length isn't strong enough to handle 3000 hp.

You're worried about the joint and everything else doesn't matter...

Read below... now you'll understand weight and EVERYTHING else.... Weight works against you for speed, and against you for safety....

my turbo car broke the front one soon as i plugged 3rd its a 5 speed. it was so violent my drive shaft cover was attached to 1 1/8 x tubes on the floor. it broke the tubes from the floor of the car bent the tail shaft on the trans broke the tail shaft and shifter mount was going well over 100 mph by the time i got it stopped the drive shaft shaft cover and a part of the floor bars were hitting the double frame rails and something smashed the cell phone that was in my pocket. Also had to replace both upper frame rails and a cell phone lol.

I had a u joint cap laying on my dash looks like it broke the trunnion off of the main body.

the second time we were at Houston shifted into 2nd boom it broke the front and back at the same time so no damage.

Next day i called strange because i was told they made moran a special run of 1480 rear end and trans yokes. They had 8 of each left. the nitro coupe same deal shifted into 2nd boom. until you have experienced the noise , sparks not knowing if something is going to hit you i would run a 1580 if they made it lol

The cross section broke... once you are off the line the psi on the joint is far less.... far far less..... what is your 1st gear ratio, this way you can see that maybe pro mod guys have another issue and you're throwing a big heavy joint that is masking a problem....
Think about it.... 1st gear x hp/torque = now do that again for 3rd gear.... now ask why didn't that joint break at the line...and having to get _____ lbs moving, that is where it should break each and every time.

What exactly was the shaft, 3" 3.5" steel? how long was it ? what rpm are you crossing the line at ? Prior runs where there any vibrations before it came apart...when the shaft came apart just the joint was broken? the tubes weren't ripped apart at any section? twisted?

Throwing a heavy 1480 shaft and having that come apart will be even more violent then the 1350 shaft...

If you are worried about safety.... Build a CF shaft... any metal shaft coming apart is deadly to the car and YOU.... As you have experienced 1st hand.... There are plenty of other series joints after 1350, the 1410, 1480, 1550, and many others...

I would rather a CF shaft come apart at 19,000 rpm while i stand there and watch it splinter, then a steel shaft come apart at 5,000 rpm while im sitting beside it and there is a driveshaft loop in the car.....

Now you're going to add 2x the weight of that 1350 shaft , and if it breaks it'll have 2.5 times the energy....
 

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Yep, if the weight is that big of a deal, turn up the wick...:smt077

Jim
Yeah like 10 lbs in the shaft 1.5 inchs of centerline is going to be noticed by a 3500hp big block. Fuck it. I'll take a 500lb shaft so long as I know it won't jump rope or twist on me.
 

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OK,but they sell a lot of driveline parts no.
They are not making me anything,i'm buying the weld yokes/uj's/trans yoke and ultra centre section. We'll make the propshaft from 3.5" x .083" C/M in the UK.
I understand spinning weight gets heavier,but i also understand broken UJ's and propshafts take out sprags,cars and limbs.
Appreciate your input..:smt023

Good choice on the moly. Definately alot safer with your performance goals then aluminium.
 

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Yeah like 10 lbs in the shaft 1.5 inchs of centerline is going to be noticed by a 3500hp big block. Fuck it. I'll take a 500lb shaft so long as I know it won't jump rope or twist on me.

You still have no idea what 1 has to do with the other.....

You are so confused.....it amazes me....

10 lbs of weight is 10 lbs of weight you need to get moving...

10 lbs of weight in your driveline is = to THE SAME AS 200 lbs laying in the trunk, or the passenger....

So your race car has a 40 gallon tank then....

10 lbs of weight and the centerline of spinning mass are 2... entirely different things

You can't seem to understand weight and balancing issues...
 

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If you are worried about safety.... Build a CF shaft... any metal shaft coming apart is deadly to the car and YOU.... As you have experienced 1st hand.... There are plenty of other series joints after 1350, the 1410, 1480, 1550, and many others...

I would rather a CF shaft come apart at 19,000 rpm while i stand there and watch it splinter, then a steel shaft come apart at 5,000 rpm while im sitting beside it and there is a driveshaft loop in the car.....
How about when the end of a carbon shaft comes apart? We have had more issues with the bonding agents and the yokes on the fiber shafts we ran in the past. PST has some of the best carbon tube out there, yet it seems everyone's glues and yokes suffer. We have yet to broom a shaft, only broke multiple u joints, both front and rear. After having to pound every bracket that held the drive shaft can in place including the can itself, we put a steel shaft in. A carbon shaft is just as dangerous as a steel unit. Everybody claims that all carbon shafts broom when they break, but they don't always. I see where you are coming from, but on the other side of things I would much rather have a heavy shaft/u joint combo that will never break by my side...
 
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