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Thats what I’m doing at the moment with the cheap sniper 90mm plate kit ,I should be deep in the 10 next time out , I recently ditched the stock ls2 cam for a btr stage 4 cam , it made 50 more horse to the wheels through a looser stall on a stingier dyno, it ran 11.30 before the cam swap last time I went to the track on my first test hit and shredded a rear tire on the inner fender and I didn’t get to make anymore passes since ,that was in 90 degree Florida summer air around 2200da, with the new cam and fixing all the suspension issues ,with some better air it will run somewhere in the 10s on a little 100-125 shot .Im just waiting for the good air to roll in before I go back .Nitrous is where it’s at for that fast cheap horsepower!Im about to throw a 250 shot on my 68 next
 

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FHRITP
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Discussion Starter #62
Thats what I’m doing at the moment with the cheap sniper 90mm plate kit ,I should be deep in the 10 next time out , I recently ditched the stock ls2 cam for a btr stage 4 cam , it made 50 more horse to the wheels through a looser stall on a stingier dyno, it ran 11.30 before the cam swap last time I went to the track on my first test hit and shredded a rear tire on the inner fender and I didn’t get to make anymore passes since ,that was in 90 degree Florida summer air around 2200da, with the new cam and fixing all the suspension issues ,with some better air it will run somewhere in the 10s on a little 100-125 shot .Im just waiting for the good air to roll in before I go back .Nitrous is where it’s at for that fast cheap horsepower!Im about to throw a 250 shot on my 68 next
What did it weigh? 5.3? What heads? I gotta spend some money on the trans, it’s too soft on the shifts. Takes 600rpm before it actually makes the 1-2 and 2-3 a lot of times don’t even wanna shift
 

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3500 pound gbody with a 6.0 aluminum ls2 engine out of a gto,I have the same issue with my transmission,it takes forever for it to shift if I manually go through the gears , I actually get the best times just leaving it in drive and letting the transmission shift when it wants,ptc makes an excellent lockup converter for the price, I paid $500 for a 4000 lock up converter. I’ve went low 1.60s 60 ft with a stock longblock and this ptc converter .After I swapped cams I gained about 500 RPM in stall speed so this converter is pretty damn loose for what it is but it launches really hard And when cruising around on the street you do not notice it because it locks up in third and fourth gear when the throttle is under 40% acceleration.
 

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What did it weigh? 5.3? What heads? I gotta spend some money on the trans, it’s too soft on the shifts. Takes 600rpm before it actually makes the 1-2 and 2-3 a lot of times don’t even wanna shift
Stock 243 heads, fast 102 intake ,1 7/8 long tubes,3” exhaust with a xpipe,3.73 gear with a 4000ptc lockup,my times before the cam swap was around the same as yours (7.40s-11.30s)but spraying a 100 shot , hoping the btr stage 4 responds as good at the track as it did on the dyno. I know it will run deep into the 10s next time ,it had 2-3 tenths left in it before the cam swap in just weather alone and I only got one pass in last time so it should be running really well next time I am at the track if everything holds together and I don’t blow anything up lol.
 

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Went 8.30, 1.97, at 86mph lololol!! Leaving off idle and in drive. Scales at the track weighed 3560 with me in it. I wonder if 4:10, or even 4:56 would pick it up? IAT’s are out of control, I really don’t know what the best way to remedy that is N/A.
Your sixty foot is killing you. Do you have any type of aftermarket suspension, or is it all stock? You have a seven second car with a better sixty foot.
 

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FHRITP
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Discussion Starter #67
Stock 243 heads, fast 102 intake ,1 7/8 long tubes,3” exhaust with a xpipe,3.73 gear with a 4000ptc lockup,my times before the cam swap was around the same as yours (7.40s-11.30s)but spraying a 100 shot , hoping the btr stage 4 responds as good at the track as it did on the dyno. I know it will run deep into the 10s next time ,it had 2-3 tenths left in it before the cam swap in just weather alone and I only got one pass in last time so it should be running really well next time I am at the track if everything holds together and I don’t blow anything up lol.
So 7.40’s on a 100 shot? What did it run on motor? I understand these things will take a good bit of nitrous on stock parts. If I gotta pull mine out again it’s going back in with a 6.0.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Ha! Bam! That's pretty respectable. What did your MPH do?
Ah not crazy just 92mph. It has caltacs, mono leafs and Calvert shocks on the back. Front is all stock other than drop springs lol. And, I’m running a basic street tire nitto 555 so 1.69 ain’t terrible. Ima leave that tire on it until it don’t work any more to see how far I can go with it. I run about 25psi in them, and they work ok granted I’m not hitting it real hard with the tight converter. I suspect if I can foot brake it close to 3000 it’ll really pick up. Right it’s pushing through at 2200
 

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So 7.40’s on a 100 shot? What did it run on motor? I understand these things will take a good bit of nitrous on stock parts. If I gotta pull mine out again it’s going back in with a 6.0.
I know it will handle a lot more nitrous but mine is a street car with full interior ,power everything and I drive it 200 miles round-trip to the track with the AC on so I’d rather try to keep it alive longer .My little kit will allow me to add another 50 hp if I feel the need but I still have to use all of what I’m spraying now before throwing more at it

Best time on motor was 11.90s @ 113mph 1.62 60ft with a stock longblock ls2 with a fast intake and a stall really ain’t that bad,11.30s @ 119 (stock longblock)on the 100 shot with a Ultra safe tune .It was the only pass I did on Nitrous since I had it dyno tuned because I shredded a mt pbr tire from the mini wheelie and immediately drove home because I didn’t want to get a flat 100 miles from home so i know for sure it had a few more tenths in it from just weather alone and I never sprayed it in first gear yet because I was having traction issues with out the spray. I got all that sorted out now and recently stuffed the biggest btr cam possible with out running into clearance issues in a stock headed ls2 so it should really wake it up at the track next time I go.

If you plan on spraying the shit out of it than stay with the 5.3 , if it’s more of a street car and don’t want to spray a ton then go with a 6.0-6.2, The torque curve on the bigger motors are a lot fatter and Definitely more satisfying when u mash on it.Add a ptc 4000+ Lockup converter for 500$ and u probably won’t be able to tell much of a difference between the 2 anyways
 

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Discussion Starter #70
This thing is 100% street car, ac/heat, cruise, Bluetooth radio LOL!! I wouldn’t hesitate to drive it any more I refuse to have a gutted car that only sees the track. But, it is appealing to me to run a decent number with it now that I’ve made a few licks it’s close to being kinda fast for a heavy truck. I’ll prolly try to push for 6.99 and leave it alone I was already getting hassled about no cage. I have a billet circle D in it, when I get the trans out to be built I’m gunna get it loosened up some. I could take ALOT of weight out of the truck and go quicker but it’s just not that impressive to me any more to go fast in a tin can.

What nitrous kit? Is it a plate or a nozzle??
 

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You aren't gonna be happy til you start to break stuff, huh? :-D


For what it's worth, you should be OK without a rollbar until you run under 7.35 in the 1/8 mile or 11.49 in the 1/4 mile (per NHRA/IHRA). Take care. Tom Worthington
 

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This thing is 100% street car, ac/heat, cruise, Bluetooth radio LOL!! I wouldn’t hesitate to drive it any more I refuse to have a gutted car that only sees the track. But, it is appealing to me to run a decent number with it now that I’ve made a few licks it’s close to being kinda fast for a heavy truck. I’ll prolly try to push for 6.99 and leave it alone I was already getting hassled about no cage. I have a billet circle D in it, when I get the trans out to be built I’m gunna get it loosened up some. I could take ALOT of weight out of the truck and go quicker but it’s just not that impressive to me any more to go fast in a tin can.

What nitrous kit? Is it a plate or a nozzle??
scaled mine the other day... 3918 with me in it... lol PHAT!!
 

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Fix the tranny, get a Yank 4400 stall converter and some DRs.
 

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This thing is 100% street car, ac/heat, cruise, Bluetooth radio LOL!! I wouldn’t hesitate to drive it any more I refuse to have a gutted car that only sees the track. But, it is appealing to me to run a decent number with it now that I’ve made a few licks it’s close to being kinda fast for a heavy truck. I’ll prolly try to push for 6.99 and leave it alone I was already getting hassled about no cage. I have a billet circle D in it, when I get the trans out to be built I’m gunna get it loosened up some. I could take ALOT of weight out of the truck and go quicker but it’s just not that impressive to me any more to go fast in a tin can.

What nitrous kit? Is it a plate or a nozzle??


It’s a Holley sniper 90/92 mm gm Efi plate kit , pretty nice for the cost , paid 450 for the whole kit .It says you can spray 175 shot but you need the bigger solenoids if you want to go over 150. I Paid 30 dollars for a Ebay bottle warmer that works surprisingly good for what it is ,290$ for the leginfelter timing box,50 bucks for a pressure gauge and 40-50 bucks for a hand switch , and another 40-50$ for a fuel line to feed the fuel solenoid off the rail . Put it all together in about 2-3 hours , was by far the best bang for the buck out There . Another thing, i’m not sure what intake you have But going from the stock LS2 intake to a fast 102 intake with the same throttlebody and injectors picked up 2 to 3 tenths and 2-3 mph from that intake alone. If u are running a truck intake or a tbss intake it won’t pick u up that much but will still add 15-20 hp across the board ,depending on what intake you have it might not be worth the 850$ cost but if you got the itch and are throwing money at it anyways then why not .
 

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FHRITP
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Discussion Starter #76
I have a ls6 intake and ls2 TB. I also run 2009 TBSS ecu/tcm so I have flexfuel capability with just adding a sensor. How are you turning the kit on? Hand switch?? I think I’d want a window switch to be able to control it some. If that intake would pick the truck up .3 I’d throw down the $850 today!!!! That’s a bunch is it that much better than the ls6?
 

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Check out this manifold test,with a 102 intake this modified engine made almost 40hp over a ls6 intake . The gains will probably not be as dramatic on a 5.3 with less power but I’m sure you have a 20-25 horse difference between the two intakes on your engine .

LS two intakes are the worst of the oe intakes ,u may not gain as much as I did But you will definitely feel and see a pretty big difference in the way it runs, the 102 is a awesome intake

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.hotrod.com/articles/20-ls1-intake-manifolds-tested/amp/
 

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I’ll keep it in mind I see one cheap used
I sold my stock ls2 intake on eBay for 250$ , if yours is a real gm intake u could probably get 250/300$ for it and use that money towards a new or used 102 intake.Someone scooped up my piece of shit ls2 intake the same night I posted it .Only thing is idk if your rail will work with the 102 , ls2 rails fit perfect but depending on what u have u may need to buy a fuel rail that will work with it .The good thing about that intake is it makes more power everywhere in the curve not just up top , supposedly it makes more gains in the midrange than at peak so it feels like you are gaining a lot more then just 20-30 up top.
 

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OP, if you have to ask, I suspect you're not an experienced racer and the car probably hasn't been set up. I would guess your combo unsorted would run mid 12's.
 
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