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When making brake lines do I go 1/4 inch or 3/16 on the rear. Its a strange master cylinder on a G body with retrofit factory rear disc on it. Currently using 3/16 but wondering if it needs bigger line. I also have a wilwood adjustable proportioning valve inline going to the rear.
 

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FYI, if you think or calculate that you need more fluid, your answer is not a bigger line. It is a master cylinder with a bigger volume

3/16 is perfect
 

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Prop valve might work better in the frt. Pizza cutters don't stop well locked up. I'd go without one to start.
 

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A proportioning valve is very car specific because the master cylinder, brake type and weights are all different.

The rules are this. Lock the front up but not the backs, and it goes straight. Lock the backs up but not the front, and the car is swapping ends real fast!
 

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A proportioning valve is very car specific because the master cylinder, brake type and weights are all different.

The rules are this. Lock the front up but not the backs, and it goes straight. Lock the backs up but not the front, and the car is swapping ends real fast!
how the phuck do you figure that?you drivin in reverse
 

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how the phuck do you figure that?you drivin in reverse
I've slid across the finish line a thousand times and as long as it's just the front skiddin' you're golden. I swapped brake lines front to back once on advice of "you need the bigger tires doing more of the braking". Sounded good, until I turn a guy loose hard and end up in his lane. Switched it back pronto.
 

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how the phuck do you figure that?you drivin in reverse
Once a tire locks up, its drag goes to almost nothing (reverted rubber hydroplaining)

Lock the fronts up while the brear tires still have traction and the greater drag rears stay behind the lower drag fronts.


Lock the rears up, and the front still has massive traction due to weight transfer and the rears have no traction to keep force the car straight, and the fronts will try to go to the opposite of the traveling direction (higher drag always trys to go to the back).


Try it in a car with a hand E brake on a wet day. Get in the brakes hard and stay on them while pulling the E brake and lock the rears. The car is going to try to swap ends, and fast until you gain traction on the rear tires by releasing the E brake.





This is why getting on the brakes when the rear tires are spinning from too much HP is always going to put the car into the wall. The car comes around almost instantly and once pointed a the wall people realize the brakes caused the issue and they get off the brakes, the rears gain traction amd the car regains control, but in a very bad direction.
 

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makes since,wasn't thinking of a total lock up just the fronts doing more than the back and the back wanting to come around
 
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