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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for something that allows me to take the valve covers on and off fast. I have bolts now and its a PITA to line up the gasket and push the bolt in there.

Looking for a SBF. I have ford motorsports valve covers if that makes a difference. Tall ones.

I would like them to be black. I try to stay away from chrome.. but if I have to I'll do it.
 

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Check out my buddies website. His name is Grant. He is good shit and has a pretty slick setup out now. You mount the studs in, and use his nuts to tie them down. Only need a 1/4" extension and ratched. No more sockets.

http://www.madcomachine.com/

Tell him Matt Kuehn(keen) with the Chevelle sent you.
 

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You can take a set of v/covers and use the gasket maker to get the gasket to stick to the cover and once its dry its not going anywhere
 

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Many years ago we had valve cover fasteners made by Dzus. The studs had the curved slot in them and the "nuts" were spring loaded with a phillips
end to install/remove them. I think that I still have one of the nuts in my tool box, but haven't seen them anywhere else for years. They were quich and easy to use.
 

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these are the fastners that Matt is talking about
 

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I use ARP studs and nuts. I dont use the washers. just one more piece to drop in the motor. I also glue my cork gaskets to the valvecovers they last forever that way
 

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stainless 1/4-20 1" long socket set screws and sereted 6 point flange head nuts. Might cost ya $10-20 max.
 

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these are the fastners that Matt is talking about
Thanks, Yes these are the ones I am talking about. Grant races circle track and they run quick change rear ends. Changing gear sets and other parts that they change on a regular basis is much easier now as they just use a 1/4" impact to run everything on. It is all the torque they need. So run it on with the gun till it stops and you are good to go(on the gear covers, carbs, and some other random places.)
 

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Simple and effective. I have used a 4 in. stainless shoulder bolt with one inch of threads with a nut jammed on it. I polished the top of the bolt to take off all the markings and make it look good. Works great and is good for fast removal and replacement....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
stainless 1/4-20 1" long socket set screws and sereted 6 point flange head nuts. Might cost ya $10-20 max.
What does a serrated 6 point flange head nut look like? I'm doubting lowes would have something like this?

Great idea. My concern is the little space of the nut. Only one way to find out. I saw ford racings one, but they are chrome.
 

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i always thought the t-bolts were real easy as long as you have the studs loctited in the head. ford motorsports or ford racing or whatever it was called used to make them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i always thought the t-bolts were real easy as long as you have the studs loctited in the head. ford motorsports or ford racing or whatever it was called used to make them.
Thing with tbolt is I can't use them on the passender side bc of the intake.

Here is a picture of my engine bay.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Going to see if lowes has them in black..if not looks like I'll get the trick flow studs with flange nut.
 

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What does a serrated 6 point flange head nut look like? I'm doubting lowes would have something like this?

Great idea. My concern is the little space of the nut. Only one way to find out. I saw ford racings one, but they are chrome.
This is a serated flange nut.

They are 10 whole cents each from these guys and sold in boxes of 50 nuts. So $5 for nuts, and maybe $2-3 for studs
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://shop1.mailordercentral.com/marshfasteners/images/SerFlNt.jpg&imgrefurl=http://shop1.mailordercentral.com/marshfasteners/products.asp?dept=445&usg=__po6NMFkJAghr5vArnri6N58gyO4=&h=384&w=512&sz=21&hl=en&start=1&itbs=1&tbnid=J1IBrZUKr80dOM:&tbnh=98&tbnw=131&prev=/images?q=Serrated+flange+nut&hl=en&gbv=2&ie=UTF-8&tbs=isch:1
 
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