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Discussion Starter #81
Chassis Dyno’s are not really the make or break. I’d see what it runs, record what the converter does and go from there.
What’s the timing set at? Is it locked?
What was AFR on the dyno at wot when it dropped off?
I'm going to ask my buddy if he can send me the dyno sheet for AFR specs. Timing isn't locked, but I have to check what the timing is set at to verify ( I don't remember off the top of my head).
 

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Start by degreeing the cam to spec. Or maybe better yet, post pic of cam card for some solid feedback on ICL install. Verify timing pointer and harmonic are truly showing zero at cyl 1 TDC. Get it running reasonably well with AFR close and timing set while monitoring gains. Then, put in a fresh set of plugs so you can see/read plugs to best understand what's going on in the CC.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Start by degreeing the cam to spec. Or maybe better yet, post pic of cam card for some solid feedback on ICL install. Verify timing pointer and harmonic are truly showing zero at cyl 1 TDC. Get it running reasonably well with AFR close and timing set while monitoring gains. Then, put in a fresh set of plugs so you can see/read plugs to best understand what's going on in the CC.
I will definitely post these specs ASAP. Thanks!
 

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I'm going to ask my buddy if he can send me the dyno sheet for AFR specs. Timing isn't locked, but I have to check what the timing is set at to verify ( I don't remember off the top of my head).
I would lock it out, and run atleast 36 maybe more. Sbc likes timing. I wouldn’t take anything apart yet, if you’re not real sure even where the timing was at
 

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Discussion Starter #87
I think I'm going to just get this motor to run properly, no matter what kind of power its making, and address a few other things on the car. Once I'm done sorting out other issues with the car, pull the SBC and just go BBC.
I've been doing some research and it just makes more sense to go BBC.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Start by degreeing the cam to spec. Or maybe better yet, post pic of cam card for some solid feedback on ICL install. Verify timing pointer and harmonic are truly showing zero at cyl 1 TDC. Get it running reasonably well with AFR close and timing set while monitoring gains. Then, put in a fresh set of plugs so you can see/read plugs to best understand what's going on in the CC.
Reviving this thread again. Frustrating.

I am starting to believe the cam timing is off. I am going to pull the oil pan and timing cover to see where it is at. The car just falls on it's face at about 4000 rpm. Something isn't right (besides the big intake, there is something else wrong). I will take pics as soon as I have the cover off this week, and I will probably have to order a degree kit as well with a piston stop (heads are on the motor).
 

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What valve springs do you have installed? Verified installation height?
Perhaps an ignition system issue?
Cam timing is a start, but I think something else is going on here.
 

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You can verify cam timing and double check TDC to timing mark pointer without disassembly. Then if it is correct you can move on to other diagnosis. Cylinder leakage, cranking compression, valve spring seat and open pressure, ignition timing, possibly swap carburetor can all be done without tasking it apart.
 

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Check fuel delivery. Specifically, that your pump & lines can deliver enough fuel for the projected HP.
 

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Are you running an HEI with the coil in the cap? When the coil is starting to fail, it can cause high rpm issues and take out the ignition module.
 
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