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I did a search and couldn't find the right answers.

I just picked up a 230V ac/dc machine. It's been years since I used a stick welder.
I got a couple of questions.

When running in DC is it better to use REV polarity? Which rod will work the best?

I'm welding some frame parts on my 73 Convertible and then metal is thin in places, need to watch my heat. I have a cheap gasless mig that I'm not confident about the welds that's why I got the stick

thanks
 

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I like using 7018 DC rev. You have a bit of a time to start it, but it does make a nice weld
If you stop and start with the rod, you need to tap the rod onto something to break the cup
You could buy 3/32 rod 7018 is all position rod.. 7014 is easier to use, but I think it is only for flat position welding
 

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dear lord DO NOT stick weld anything on a chassis please! Get a TIG rig for the stick welder and TIG it if possible.
 

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Practice, Practice, Practice. if its been a while since you ran a 7018. if you run the 3/32 rod I run them at 86-88 amps but thats if I'm welding vert. up and its a small weld thats needed.
If you have some heavier metal you could go up to a 1/8" but just watch your puddle and watch for arc blow (thermal or Magnetic) I run my 1/8" 7018 vert up at 125 amps, and overhead around 108-110

Hope this helps.

Shannon
 

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dear lord DO NOT stick weld anything on a chassis please! Get a TIG rig for the stick welder and TIG it if possible.
I've seen some stick welds that have looked as good if not better then tig! But it is rare and I agree with using a tig but you have to work with what you have.

Shanonn
 

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dear lord DO NOT stick weld anything on a chassis please! Get a TIG rig for the stick welder and TIG it if possible.
NOTHING wrong with a stick in most applications if in the right hands... as far a structural (building) welding, I would trust a stick over a TIG and MIG ANYDAY
 

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For what you are doing, use a 6013 3/32 rod. 70 to 90 amps. 6013 is by far the easiest to start and stop with and for what you requirements are, it would be the best choice. Personally for the frame work your speaking of, if its out of position welding, I would practice with, and use, the mig.
 

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Head Phuckstick
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NOTHING wrong with a stick in most applications if in the right hands... as far a structural (building) welding, I would trust a stick over a TIG and MIG ANYDAY
x2!!! Phuck MIG! Tig/Stick is what I'm talking about!!! LoL

Shannon
 

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Apples and oranges. Both are all position, 7018 is low hydrogen, 6011 is not, 7018 has a higher tensile strength. Both would work fine, 6011 will be more forgiving in regards to cleanliness.
 

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Head Phuckstick
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6010,6011,6013 Are also fast freeze rods and spatter like crazy and like I stated earlier are a little harder to control because of them being a Fast freeze rod that can get out of hand because of that..

7018 will weld cleaner IMO and easier to start with if you are try'n to re-learn how to stick weld.

Shannon
 

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Head Phuckstick
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They Spatter on me when Im Welding the root in on pipe and thick wall tubing! So it could just be me. LoL

I forgot the brand, but I think the ones we use are the +4's

Shannon
 

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Uhmmmmm....theres no way a 7018 is going to restart easier than a 6013. The 6013 doesn't glaze over like the 7018 and require you to "break" the tip to restart. In an out of position situation, that can be a real pain in the ass. 6011 is a globular transfer rod that will absolutely make a mess with spatter and burn through. 6013 is a spray transfer rod that will be easier to restart, weld out of position, and produce a fine lookig weld. Yes, 7018 may have a little better tensile strength, but for what he said he was doing, it would not be an issue. I would still mig it though........way easier to control once you go out of position.
 

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Globular transfer and spray transfer are GMAW (mig) not SMAW (stick). E6011 is a fast freeze electrode. They work well in poorly cleaned weld joints and in poor fit up situations. It is aggressive as far as penetration is concerned. It can be used to put in root passes in open root welds. Pipe welding for instance. E6013 is a general purpose electrode. It does start much easier than E7018 and is more forgiving. 60K psi tensile strength. E7018 is a low hydrogen electrode with 70K psi tensile strength. It is a more difficult electrode to master but can deposit a beautiful bead of weld. Used mainly in structural welding and to weld out pipe after that E6011 root pass. These 3 electrodes can all be used in all positions.
 

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The 6010/11 does spatter, but keeping a tight arc will keep it at a minumum.

The 7018 is a high deposition rod, you will need to move faster, and is less brittle. If you weave it, pause in the corners. Youll know the weld is good when the slag peels by itself. To restart, just get a brick or cinder block and tap the rod to brake away the flux and expose the rod.
 

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Stick welding has it's place, and it's welding pipe and structural steel. I too have seen some great stick welding at the hands of my father however I would rather MIG and TIG my stuff
 

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Head Phuckstick
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Globular transfer and spray transfer are GMAW (mig) not SMAW (stick). E6011 is a fast freeze electrode. They work well in poorly cleaned weld joints and in poor fit up situations. It is aggressive as far as penetration is concerned. It can be used to put in root passes in open root welds. Pipe welding for instance. E6013 is a general purpose electrode. It does start much easier than E7018 and is more forgiving. 60K psi tensile strength. E7018 is a low hydrogen electrode with 70K psi tensile strength. It is a more difficult electrode to master but can deposit a beautiful bead of weld. Used mainly in structural welding and to weld out pipe after that E6011 root pass. These 3 electrodes can all be used in all positions.
Post of the month!

Shannon
 
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