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Discussion Starter #1
I welded mine solid except for a couple pin holes. I am testing the welded seal with soap water and air pressure. Is it imparative to get that seal air tight ? They are pretty small now. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I put one nice tack, let it cool and tested it. It was bubbling around the tube everywhere, didn't think that was any good, so I kept welding and testing it. I didn't do it for strength, only seal. I figured it can't be good if it can suck air anywhere.
 

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I don't fully weld any of them. Just to hold it in place.
 

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I use to braze them with a torch 100% around. Then I tig welded them 100% with silicone bronze rod. I always tore the pump apart prior to welding. I never tested anything for leaks. The oil would seem to be heavy enough to overcome any minor leaks cause in 40 yrs I never had any issues. I put a Moroso pump in my new motor due to worries about cracking pick up tubes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think I got it. No more bubbles and spins nice and loose. I was afraid if air is leaking out, then it could cavitate if it got too low. I'll look into that moroso unit just to see. Which one did you buy Real McCoy?
 

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Buddy of mine did this and the pump cracked away where the pickup was welded in. Depends on the pump obviously but if it's a cast pump not a good thing to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Buddy of mine did this and the pump cracked away where the pickup was welded in. Depends on the pump obviously but if it's a cast pump not a good thing to do.

That would just be my luck.:mad: I think I will look closer at the moroso unit...I don't want another engine failure for 5 years minimum.;)
 

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I'll look into that moroso unit just to see. Which one did you buy Real McCoy?
I bought the gerotor billet aluminium pump. For a bracket type motor I'd just get a standard volumn Melling racing pump which is a better case than their new standard pump. Braze the right pick up for your pan and let it eat.
 

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Master Fabricator
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I tigged mine with 3 nice tacks using SB. I can see if you weld all the way around the tube can lose strength and brake off under racing conditions due to vibration and fatigue.

With the tacks, you keep most of the tube strength and prevent it from falling off.
 

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Brazing is the way to go. Less heat, more forgiving, typically does not crack... seen many welds crack along the pump, remember you're weldling cast iron... and even with the bracket, it too will crack and you know what happens next.
 

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I use to braze them with a torch 100% around. Then I tig welded them 100% with silicone bronze rod. I always tore the pump apart prior to welding. I never tested anything for leaks. The oil would seem to be heavy enough to overcome any minor leaks cause in 40 yrs I never had any issues. I put a Moroso pump in my new motor due to worries about cracking pick up tubes.

Seems to me that TIG would be the only LOGICAL way to go (i.e. heat control) , with the sili-bronze rod you mentioned.... :cool:
 

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EFI/N2O JUNKIE
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I had the tube and the weld stay nicely attached to a pump once, but the rest of the tube broke right-off next to the weld. I would not recommend having someone weld the tube completely around after that happened to me.

I have seen tubes brazed onto the pump that never had a problem.
 

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My dad was a pipefitter/welder for 26+ years and is currently a welding inspector. He has worked on alot of different metal types depending on the job without failing a single weld on 100% test procedure for a nuclear reactor (out of a auditorum sized room full of welders only himself & 1 other guy made it through the job w/100% test conditions). Now that I got that out of my way (in an attempt for you to hopefully see validity in his procedure) I will explain how he told me to bolth braze the p/u on and how to mig weld the p/u on. He prefers to braze the p/u onto the pump rather than weld it on. After you remove the oil pump top (SBC example) remove your oil pump pressure spring and install your p/u where you want it. Then use a rosebud to get the housing up to 800 degrees before you try to introduce any brazzing rod (apply your heat evenly over the surface). Apply your brazzing rod evenly around the p/u and wipe away any excess just like if you were sodering pipe together. Welding it with a mig is almost the same procedure as braising it in but you don't need to heat the top up as much. Just get it up to 400-450 degrees and then focus your heat around where your pick up is for a few seconds and when you see it starting to glow orange weld it up. I have done this bolth ways and haven't had a single one crack yet.
 

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My dad was a pipefitter/welder for 26+ years and is currently a welding inspector. He has worked on alot of different metal types depending on the job without failing a single weld on 100% test procedure for a nuclear reactor (out of a auditorum sized room full of welders only himself & 1 other guy made it through the job w/100% test conditions). Now that I got that out of my way (in an attempt for you to hopefully see validity in his procedure) I will explain how he told me to bolth braze the p/u on and how to mig weld the p/u on. He prefers to braze the p/u onto the pump rather than weld it on. After you remove the oil pump top (SBC example) remove your oil pump pressure spring and install your p/u where you want it. Then use a rosebud to get the housing up to 800 degrees before you try to introduce any brazzing rod (apply your heat evenly over the surface). Apply your brazzing rod evenly around the p/u and wipe away any excess just like if you were sodering pipe together. Welding it with a mig is almost the same procedure as braising it in but you don't need to heat the top up as much. Just get it up to 400-450 degrees and then focus your heat around where your pick up is for a few seconds and when you see it starting to glow orange weld it up. I have done this bolth ways and haven't had a single one crack yet.
I'd be curious to see what your father says about TIG welding it. Seems like TIG would be obviously the best way to control the heating process. Ask him...........
 

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Doesn't bond properly to CAST iron, sorry to burst your bubble.......
I guess I'm going to need a more thorough explanation as to WHY
 
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