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I have welded the wall between the two center cylinders after blowing a head gasket, did the blocks too. Just preheat and use the correct rod.

One time came right home form the track took it apart and it was still warm. Welded it up - ground/filed it flat put the used head gasket back on and raced the next day.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just interested in making the chamber smaller, trying to do a little experimenting. Would tig welding with nickel rod warp the head to bad or should I braze it?
 

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all that I can tell you is that since you have to ask,..





.....then you best get started on the ten year learning process to learn how to cast iron stick weld with a torch....

...and maybe a little about metalurgy in school..

you asked what is the BEST...


cast iron that common cylinder heads are made out of is not an easy metal to weld.
shrinkage during and after weld is a big issue that causes cracks.

a non melting of base metal process such as BRAIZING is possible for SMALL changes...
and it is relatively easy to put in there...
but issue is,..brass or bronze will melt at engines running combustion temperatures...

...at least you are thinking....
 

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Furnace welding. what a process!. too much trouble & only if you have to.

fortunately there are many heads available now which mean that you don't have to go through this lengthy process.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I didnt figure you could braze it with it being in the combustion chamber. Well I guess this will be above my head. I thought Ive read something about powdered metal welding, any insight on this? Thanks for your input.
 

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Go Phuck youself
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Furnace welding. what a process!. too much trouble & only if you have to.

fortunately there are many heads available now which mean that you don't have to go through this lengthy process.

I weld my iron heads using a propane grill to heat the head to 550 600 preheat weld for afew mins. back in the grill. When all done back to 600 shut it off covered and come back tomorrow. Sometimes once isnt enough. If a head is ported ist harder as thinner walls and thick webbings dont cool the same and will crack untill your on round three of welding. Head will stay flat within afew thou.
 

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AGREED..
welding a cast iron matrix head is part magician and black art...

mostly, ........it is a lost art...


but if you intend to spend a bucket of money, then it can be done by a good diesel head repair facility... but you must be PATIENT....

it takes TIME...!!!!


I do not know what your plan changes are to the chamber,...but it all has probably been tried by someone in the last fifty years....

as said,
there are fifty heads made out of aluminum that can be welded and changed as you like....
and the aluminum welding is a bit easier.....
 

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I use a cast iron stick (break off the shielding) and my tig. Some pre heat but not alot ( Not like furnace welding heat or spray arc). It works fine for me. I never understood intraducing alot of heat to weld areas. Hope Im not sounding to simple here.
 

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Ronald Reagans Ultra Ego.
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Spray Welding can be used, its relitivly cheap and easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I was thinking of taking a cleveland 2v head and welding the open chamber, but it may be easier to use a 4v head and close the ports. You guys are a good resource thanks. Again just thinking out loud, I'd like to see what i can do with some "junk"nobody wants lol.
 

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Why close the ports on a 4v head? If you insist on that approach, just get some Aussie 2v heads and run them instead. They have the small chambers and the small lousy 2v ports.
 

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Spray welding is by far the way to go if looking for consistent reduction in chamber size with the least amount of machining after the fact.
 

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YUP.

ION FACT,

I did this very same alteration to open chambered 2 V cleveland heads...
BY using a powedered metal- metal spray gun...I think that STOODY makes this setup...

only issue with those heads is that the spark plug is in the wrong place depthwise....

valve diameters are kinda small...
the various years were not all the same casting....
 
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