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LOL...crickets...
Probably happened to just be on at that time checking things out. Most of his post are a day or two apart.
No worries here.
midnitea is correct! We appoligize for the delayed response. The fastest/best way to get a hold of us is by calling or e-mailing into the shop. Due to it being race season the tech guy on here is usually tied up working on our shop cars or is out of the office at the shows/races.

We sell everything at retail price as we do not want to compete with our dealers. All of our dealers are required to abide by our MAP (minimum advertise pricing) policy except for on approved holiday sales. If you have any urgent questions feel free to give us a call at 952-469-4130.
 

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midnitea is correct! We appoligize for the delayed response. The fastest/best way to get a hold of us is by calling or e-mailing into the shop. Due to it being race season the tech guy on here is usually tied up working on our shop cars or is out of the office at the shows/races.

We sell everything at retail price as we do not want to compete with our dealers. All of our dealers are required to abide by our MAP (minimum advertise pricing) policy except for on approved holiday sales. If you have any urgent questions feel free to give us a call at 952-469-4130.
Thank you! I appreciate the response. Really didn't mean anything by the "crickets" comment, just being a smart ass. I apologize.
 

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WE struggled to get the car to move off the line this weekend. Track was not good but a PBR tired car running tick slower then we used to made it to finals in pro and won super pro. . I could get it to no spin its nuts off.
Here is a couple of videos. Do I not havve enough extension going on in the rear? Need stronger front struts to keep them from extending so fast?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d4IXTvUIB2E

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fCWlf4nmACM

Do I need to get after it some more? Raise 2 step and then see if I get more extension on rear or loosen extension on rear shocks. Car is suposed to be around 140%as about 38 inches long according to baselines calculator.

In second video spins after front end comes up. 1st video we turned down 2 step and it went straight to tire spin.

Viking where would you recommend starting on the fronts with new Viking Crusader struts with 175lbs springs on this setup?
 

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I had Viking shocks on the rear of my 67 Camaro. Great quality product for the street and lower power applications. Once you get to 1000 or plus HP you need to look elsewhere. Customer Service is ok. If they get stumped they just quit replying instead of telling you your out of the range.
 

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Thank you! I appreciate the response. Really didn't mean anything by the "crickets" comment, just being a smart ass. I apologize.
No worries! Thank you for your interest in our products.

Viking where would you recommend starting on the fronts with new Viking Crusader struts with 175lbs springs on this setup?
12+ on compression, 5-8 on rebound. This rebound should be on the softer side so if the rear tire hook initially but then break loose as the front tires come off the track, add more rebound.
 

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Still cant get it to not spin. Was basically a no prep test. They never touched the track. Had zero stick to it walking on it. Car rear shocks are full loose on extension and 2 clicks from tight on compression. Front its pretty tight on extension and 12 clicks on compression. 2 step was set to 4300 rpm and tire was set to 17 psi. Do I need to loosen the front extension a little at a time? Looks like maybe go up a bit on air pressure in rear and go full tight on compression in rear?
 

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I think it needs a little looser in front and more separation in rear, but Im no expert. What tire? Im sure its here, but I didn't look back. Mine separates more than that just when I stall to 2800. your front end looks tied down (almost). Looks like it could be loosened a tad in the front to try and help it get on the back tire. But, more separation in rear might get it on the tire with the settings you are running.
 

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I think it needs a little looser in front and more separation in rear, but Im no expert. What tire? Im sure its here, but I didn't look back. Mine separates more than that just when I stall to 2800. your front end looks tied down (almost). Looks like it could be loosened a tad in the front to try and help it get on the back tire. But, more separation in rear might get it on the tire with the settings you are running.
Pro bracket radial tire. Rear is as loose as I can get it on extension. I think as was around 140 and IC was around 34" Not sure ill have to look back on my notes in the trailer. Seemed like if I left any lower then that on the 2 step I didnt get any separation. Maybe raise front of lower up one hole and rear of lower one hole. Make as little higher? Front end was pretty tight on extension. I could loosen it up a bunch if need be
 

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For no prep surfaces like that you do need to back off on the rebound on the front struts to promote more weight transfer. The rear looks pretty flat. What valving do you have in the rear? If they are the Crusader AM valved shocks we do offer a softer rear drag rebound valving in the AJ valving. The valving needle and seat kit is $15 and you can change it yourself without having to send the shocks in.

It would be best to first try some of the things mentioned above with backing off front rebound, IC adjustment, etc. to see more separation at full soft on the rear shocks.
 

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For no prep surfaces like that you do need to back off on the rebound on the front struts to promote more weight transfer. The rear looks pretty flat. What valving do you have in the rear? If they are the Crusader AM valved shocks we do offer a softer rear drag rebound valving in the AJ valving. The valving needle and seat kit is $15 and you can change it yourself without having to send the shocks in.

It would be best to first try some of the things mentioned above with backing off front rebound, IC adjustment, etc. to see more separation at full soft on the rear shocks.
Rears are full loose on extension now. NOt sure the valving in the shocks. I don't think they are crusadors. They are the cheaper ones. Cant remember for sure. Had them for a while. Wasn't planning on it being a no prep but the damn track must of figured that.
 

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On no prep or low prep, My compression will be close to full tight and ext almost full loose. But I get my car up on the tire quick. mine hooks so much better with the 130 lb springs in the front, debated switching to 10s to lessen the "help" of the extra stored energy. but if I had a guy that knew suspension, I think you could make my car hook on a street with just some adjustments of the knobs. Im not that good, by the time I figure it out, its too late and we are in elimination rounds, so I just have to go with it.I had people tell me several times ,while I had trouble for a year, to check for binding. I was sure that wasn't the problem. But later found out that THATS EXACTLY what it was. I would loosen the front some, and try to get more separation in the back. Make sure you have enough shock travel in the rear to allow separation. Depending on track conditions, My rears will be set at compression, 12 from full loose, extension is 8from full loose. That's a baseline, that generally works anywhere except bad tracks. If the track is better, we tighten it up(both). fronts on a bad track have been full loose (just have to watch for changing track and weather conditions). Good tracks, in good air, my fronts will usually be from 2-3 from full tight. But I only have singles on the front. Id like to have doubles so I could slow the front rise, but for now, this works.
Last year, on practically no prep conditions, 38 degrees, my car almost got all 4 tires off the ground with the front 3 from full tight. I was about to give up on mine, but David Flynn aka flyin on here, helped me thru text. I went from blowing the tires off to almost on the bumper with his help in 1 pass. Once you get it right, you can mess with it and learn what its gonna take to get down almost any surface. main thing I cant stress enough, make sure nothing is binding. If you legit have 140% AS, then I would expect more separation at the hit. But Im definitely no expert. I still learn every time I go out.
 

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I have a buddy with me most of the time watching. We try to watch if it spins at the hit, or right after the hit to see what to do On rear shocks.
 

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I have a buddy with me most of the time watching. We try to watch if it spins at the hit, or right after the hit to see what to do On rear shocks.
THis is spinning every time after the hit. Plants good then like tire bounces back up. Ran out of time the other night. I only have to more clicks tighter on compression on rear shocks to use.
 

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Not sure if that's because your front is stopping so suddenly. But usually on mine I tighten compression if it spins after the hit(I think that's correct)
 

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Not sure if that's because your front is stopping so suddenly. But usually on mine I tighten compression if it spins after the hit(I think that's correct)
I have 2 more clicks I can go tighter on rear. Going to loosen front a tad and tighten rear next time out and try it again. Then maybe lower 2 step a little see if maybe its not as violent in rear
 

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The car looks way too stiff. Loosen the front on extension an tight on compression. rear should be full loose on a slick track. Lower your leave RPM as well. 4300 is pretty high. Your front springs might be shot as well the car is not working at all. How old are the tires?
 

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The car looks way too stiff. Loosen the front on extension an tight on compression. rear should be full loose on a slick track. Lower your leave RPM as well. 4300 is pretty high. Your front springs might be shot as well the car is not working at all. How old are the tires?
All springs, and tires are new
 
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