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Any starting point to set them at?
Your set up variables will dedicate recommended baseline starting points. We would highly recommend calling in at 952-469-4130 and speaking with one of our tech support guys about your set up so they can provide good baseline settings.

You can also review our install/tuning guides that we have on our website (www.vi-king.com) under the technical tab.
 

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Hi - very informative thread. @Viking Tech or anyone, can you please take a look at my launch and provide some tips or next steps on how to get this thing to hook? Thanks in advance.


I have Viking shocks on all four corners. I bought them a while back I believe before the Crusaders came out so I am pretty certain they are Warriors with the 18 or 19 clicks of adjustment on Comp and Rebound.


On an f-body with 9" rear end, UMI Drag Bar, short tq arm, solid double adjustable LCAs, and stock springs out back. Up front is MWC tubular K member with stock uppers and spindles and BMR lower a-arms. I believe 350lb springs.


Th400 trans 3.50 gear PTC 9.5 converter leaving on tbrake at 3700rpm 8-9psi on a 76mm.



In this video the front shocks are full tight on extension and 4 clicks off full tight on compression. The rears on this pass are about 4 clicks from full tight on compression and 12 clicks from full loose on rebound. I had the rear rebound looser and it seems to extend really fast and unload the tires. Judging by the video and feel in the car, it seems to hook off the t-brake launch and right as front tires come off ground a little bit it unloads and blows tires off.


Any suggestions? Thank you!


Video here:
 

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The fronts sure don't look like they are full tight, more like full loose. Looks like it is topping out fast and then coming down fast....unloading the rear.

I think I have passed the limit of what these shocks were designed for. Viking has a Crusader shock with tighter valving for higher HP radial cars. I am going to see what the tires and travel limiters do and if I am still struggling I will look to update the fronts.
 

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I think I have passed the limit of what these shocks were designed for. Viking has a Crusader shock with tighter valving for higher HP radial cars. I am going to see what the tires and travel limiters do and if I am still struggling I will look to update the fronts.
If you are full tight on rebound (R knob turned all the way clockwise) then you are at the rebound limit of the Warriors with the way your chassis is set up. A good option for you if the tires and travel limiters don't help would be to use the Crusader series shocks with the AP "tie down" valving.

You could also try a firmer front spring rate to take some stored energy out of it, but ultimately the Crusader AP valving would be the best solution.
 

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If you are full tight on rebound (R knob turned all the way clockwise) then you are at the rebound limit of the Warriors with the way your chassis is set up. A good option for you if the tires and travel limiters don't help would be to use the Crusader series shocks with the AP "tie down" valving.

You could also try a firmer front spring rate to take some stored energy out of it, but ultimately the Crusader AP valving would be the best solution.

Thanks for your input. I have new tires mounted on the car now and I am halfway done with the travel limiter install. I will give that a try as well as more tire pressure and/or some slowing down of the rear extension to keep it from crushing the rear tire. I am not sure if you can see in the video but I am wondering if the rear end is opening too quick as well. I do see the tire getting crushed.



The front springs are 350lb currently. Will definitely be looking into front shocks regardless here in the not so distant future. I did double check and I have the fronts full clockwise on the R knob.
 

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Viking should I just use the starting spots for your rear shocks on a fox. Car is going to be on PBRs 2900 lb car making around 650-675 Should run around 6.0s 28x10.50x15 tire. IC of 33" 9.5 high and As of around 140%
 

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Viking should I just use the starting spots for your rear shocks on a fox. Car is going to be on PBRs 2900 lb car making around 650-675 Should run around 6.0s 28x10.50x15 tire. IC of 33" 9.5 high and As of around 140%
What transmission and rear gear? My car has almost exact same weight, power and tire, I can get you the settings that have been working for me this evening......cant recall off top of my head right now.
 

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Viking should I just use the starting spots for your rear shocks on a fox. Car is going to be on PBRs 2900 lb car making around 650-675 Should run around 6.0s 28x10.50x15 tire. IC of 33" 9.5 high and As of around 140%
For separation you will want to deviate from our tuning guide that comes with the shocks. Start with a medium/firm compression and a softer rebound.

We would recommend 6-10 on compression and 3-5 on rebound (from full soft). First focus on compression and make sure the car does not "dip" off of the initial launch. If it does continue to increase compression. Then focus on rebound and increase until it hurts time then dial back 1-2 clicks. Rebound can then be adjusted based on track prep. Increase for good prep, decrease for poor prep.
 

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For separation you will want to deviate from our tuning guide that comes with the shocks. Start with a medium/firm compression and a softer rebound.

We would recommend 6-10 on compression and 3-5 on rebound (from full soft). First focus on compression and make sure the car does not "dip" off of the initial launch. If it does continue to increase compression. Then focus on rebound and increase until it hurts time then dial back 1-2 clicks. Rebound can then be adjusted based on track prep. Increase for good prep, decrease for poor prep.
....interesting.
Would you deviate from your front shock tuning guide as well if using a separation philosophy?
 

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Midniteta, mine are 12 comp and 8 rebound. That's a baseline that we always resort to that will go down any decent track. but I have a turbo 30, so my slr is a little more "violent" LOL
 
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