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Thanks! Do you have any trouble keeping the copper gaskets sealed as far as coolant and return oil?
 

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I always loved that truck !!!
I remember when you were blow thru with the crutch system.. you had a light that showed an actual crutch that lit up when it was activated
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
I always loved that truck !!!
I remember when you were blow thru with the crutch system.. you had a light that showed an actual crutch that lit up when it was activated
That was pretty cool . A guy from The Turbo Forums made me that gauge panel . Still use it , but the "crutch" light is now a gear indicator .

The " crutch" was a name given to the Brent Davis BRPVs by Kevin at CSU . Brent made his own BRPVs after Kevin killed two of his engines . So the story goes .

He said , " my carbs dont need a " crutch " to work .

LOL ....... The Crutch carbs were KILLER !
 

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Awesome truck,I am in the process of building another motor and this one will be o ringed with a receiver groove on the heads. The mileage you have put on this in the past year and the times it runs are so impressive. The Clark gaskets did you do anything extra to seal them up? Do you have any issues with water leaking seeping?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Awesome truck,I am in the process of building another motor and this one will be o ringed with a receiver groove on the heads. The mileage you have put on this in the past year and the times it runs are so impressive. The Clark gaskets did you do anything extra to seal them up? Do you have any issues with water leaking seeping?
I use Hylomar blue spray . Let it tack up for an hour or so . Torque in three steps . Heat the block and heads with heat guns . ( takes time ) Get it hot enough that you can barely touch it . Let cool , re-torque next day . Loosen and torque one at a time .

Only issue Ive had with water was when the head had an imperfection , but other than that , no issues .
 

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Curious what your rear susp. setup is-I orig didnt flip my rear (86) and
used the lowering kit, using 2 leafs, CalTracs-in the process of flipping it
now, using a split mono, but need a shorter adj. shock.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Curious what your rear susp. setup is-I orig didnt flip my rear (86) and
used the lowering kit, using 2 leafs, CalTracs-in the process of flipping it
now, using a split mono, but need a shorter adj. shock.
Stock leafs with the helper spring removed . Axle is still below the spring , no axle flip .

Caltracs , and Strange double adjustable shocks in the rear , QA1 singles up front .

I was able to get the rear low enough with just using a drop hanger and shackle .

I used the Belltech hangers , but built a plate to rotate the spring eye as high as I could get it . The rear spring eye is also up near the bed .

Raising the front eye changed the way it left the line . Night and day difference . Changed the instant center for the better . Transferred the weight GREAT . Puts the axle close to the frame , but no worries at the track as the rear is separating .

Front springs are also stock . Cut one coil out . This was better than drop spindles as it gave the truck more front travel .

Rear is on airbags . No air leaves the truck level with the 31" tires .Needs air to keep level with the 28" street tires .

TRZ installed the anti rollbar . Tied in at the mounting points of the rear bars . Front sway bar is removed .

The Moser Dana60 has a Truetrac .

The spacing between the axle and caltrac bar seemed important also . Getting the bar near the lip of the wheel seemed to help . These are home made .
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Forgot to mention ....... You might be able to see in the video that the rear quarters are pulled out about 2" . Its the only way the slicks would fit between the stock spring location and the fender . Its a 31x10.5 with a 14.5 section width . I just cut the spot welds in the wheel well and spread them out . Then relocated the supports .
 

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Thanks
Interesting the stock springs are working that good, might just keep mine
for now, they dont give away the mono's, lol. I run 295's, taller than I orig,
intended, so I wanted to get the rear down another 1", but cant since I have
already pretty much done all I can, so notching and flipping is the best option.
I C notched it yesterday for when I flip it.
I have to buy new bottom plates for the CalTracs, and I have to do something
with the 4" exhaust-It goes from the turbo to the rear bumper, with one muffler
in front of the rear, and one after-I like quite, lol. Might split it into 2-2.5" over
the rear.
 

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^ My F150 is flipped/notched. Springs were low in the front,high at the rear. The front spring eye was lower than the axle housing. Suspension just doesn't work. Raising the front mounts ATM,almost finished.
 

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Forgot to mention ....... You might be able to see in the video that the rear quarters are pulled out about 2" . Its the only way the slicks would fit between the stock spring location and the fender . Its a 31x10.5 with a 14.5 section width . I just cut the spot welds in the wheel well and spread them out . Then relocated the supports .
Aren't you running pretty high pressure for a slick,18 lbs. or something like that.Are you running a stiff sidewall slick or tubes?
Also wondering if your cal tracs are higher in the back than the front.
could you also tell us what your rear shocks are adjusted to.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Aren't you running pretty high pressure for a slick,18 lbs. or something like that.Are you running a stiff sidewall slick or tubes?
Also wondering if your cal tracs are higher in the back than the front.
could you also tell us what your rear shocks are adjusted to.
Yes , I actually run 19 to 20 psi . Its a stiff wall Hoosier with no tubes . Our track is almost always radial prep .
Cant remember what the shock settings are off hand . Sorry
Heres a pic that might give you an idea of the angle . Its so extreme because of how the front spring eye is moved up so high .

20161023_0852321.jpg
 

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Yes , I actually run 19 to 20 psi . Its a stiff wall Hoosier with no tubes . Our track is almost always radial prep .
Cant remember what the shock settings are off hand . Sorry
Heres a pic that might give you an idea of the angle . Its so extreme because of how the front spring eye is moved up so high .

View attachment 55452
Did you try lowering the back of the Trac bar before you raised the front spring hanger.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Did you try lowering the back of the Trac bar before you raised the front spring hanger.
No the Caltrac bar at the axle was done first after getting some tips in the Caltrac thread for awhile . The bar arrangement at the spring has never changed .

Heres my dimensions .
caltrac.png
Raising the front spring eye ..... I was just looking to get the rear of the truck lower after cutting the front springs . Had change the perches to get the pinion angle right again , but didnt do anything to the caltracs . But obviously it did change the bar angle
 

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Love it, that turbo is screaming!
 

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There was a guy in Md who was making the axle bracket with 3 holes for
the CT's, but it was for flipped rears. Hopefully I finish mine up this weekend,
lot of work to get it 1 1/2" lower, lol.
 
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