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I had a blower motor built by a shop down south and I'm just getting close to installing it was getting ready to fire it when some last minute changes unveiled a couple issues?

The heads are Dart Pro 1's (345cc) and I'm removing the stud girdle, Comp Ultra Pro rockers and guides in favor of a Crower Shaft setup. The reason for the change was to get a lower profile valve cover to fit as I have clearance issues along the firewall pocket and know the side benefit will be a more stable valve train. When stripping the valve train that came on the heads, we found something odd.

First thing was that 5 of the Manley .080 3/8" push rods were in bind where they meet the lifter cup? They didn't have free movement, didn't want to turn and seemed like they were bound in the cup. The lifters are Morel 4606 +300 solid rollers and we couldn't figure what could have caused them to be binding. When I tried pulling the push rods up out of the valley they at first started to pull the lifters up with them until the carriage bar held the lifter down and the rods finally popped loose? The lifters probably came and inch or so out of the bore before they separated and there was definitely a bind going on?

Subsequent inspection of the push rods shows there aren't bent or mushroomed, and the only thing odd looking about the push rods is that they have a slight ring from a wear pattern around the tips, but about 3/16" up from the tip which is right where the taper starts from the 3/8" tips?

I ordered new Manley push rods because we now require different lengths for the Crower setup and cannot figure why these were binding? Whoever setup the valve train at the shop that built the motor also took a shortcut as we found some studs that were not thread locked, and a few that appear not to have been torqued. I'm sure the girdle would have kept it down but imagine the surprise when we found this shit on a brand new 565 build.

Any ideas on what can cause the push rods to bind? Blower intake is on and I haven't pulled the lifters to inspect them, but the cups look OK from looking down the push rod valleys and I don't think Morel makes more than one diameter on the cups. They should be good to go with any 3/8" tip and I'm at a loss? Motor only has a reported 10 minutes run time at time of build to check for leaks etc.



 

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The intake needs to be pulled. If this is a full body lifter and you're having interference between the pushrod and lifter body you'll need to change to a cutaway style lifter.

You will likely hear that most would put 7/16 pushrods in that applications, and depending on the lifter style and rocker offset, may require a single or double taper.
 
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