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Discussion Starter #1
Thinking out loud here. Between the intake and blower case (Roots style, from Dyers) for my new 438 there are two, 1/2" thick aluminum spacers. Essentially, to give the case enough space to clear the dizzy. Aluminum is horrible for heat transfer, not to mention these spacers are pretty massive. I've never seen it done, but why couldn't I take a 1" thick slab of the proper grade phenolic (CE minimum), cut it out to spec, and use that? Basically, it would be the same thing as a phenolic carb spacer. It would reduce heat, and save a bit of weight from the nose. I realize it will have a different thermal expansion rate from aluminum but I can't see an issue since they work so well for carb spacers. Delrin is an option, but the phenolic seems like a better route to me. Just curious what the rest of you thought of the idea.
 

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I think the concern is crush pressure and boost pressure. It can crack and their is a lot of force from the belt, vibration, pressure pushing it out and the blower up. May shatter
 

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I have thought of doing the same thing also, and would be interested in a 1/4 to 1/2 "thick.One above and below intercooler or a like the blower gasket but cut an o-ring on both sides. Cut this shape would work. Following post!
44309
 

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Discussion Starter #4
All the blower shops I've talked too have kind of scratched their heads, and said "huh, never seen it done but I can't think why it wouldn't work". Think its worth the experiment. I like the o-ring idea but not sure where I'd find one large enough and right shape. I'll be handing off my aluminum spacer to my buddy with a CNC to play with this weekend. The biggest issue is using the RIGHT grade phenolic. Linen based CE "shouldn't" have the cracking issue as mentioned above (especially with as meaty as the walls will be with this spacer), but its a valid concern. If it works out my buddy can cut one for anybody else that wants to give it a whirl.
 

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Moroso had phenolic spacer part # 64930 that was great for carbs. That material would work for sure and if you cut an o-ring groove you could still use a regular gasket if no o-ring. You could use blower gasket as a templete then figure the thickness also, I would be interested for sure in a 1/2" one. Keep me posted
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Will keep you posted. CE is the grade that is typically used for carb spacers. Pretty versatile and comparatively easy to machine. I'd REALLY like to use G10/FR4 because I think its the best grade for this application, but its basically bakelite and super hard too work with. Price isn't too bad for the CE, I can get a slab for the size I need for a little over two benjamins. 1/2" thick is far cheaper.
 

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That's great that it can be strong enough. I need to make adapter for my intake to my.heads and that's even better than trying to make it out of alumium. Keep us updated on it.
 

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Any updates on the spacer??
 

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Just curious. There has been no mention of an over heating issue and no mention of what gain is to be had with the phenolic spacer. Granted, it sounds like a good idea but for a street engine what is going to be gained?
 

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Just like anything every little bit helps. I was going to use a phenolic spacer under my inter-cooler to help temp and IAT temps, and hope for a 10-20 degrees or more difference.
 

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I would probably leave the outside square opening uncut just to increase strength as weight wouldnt be as much of an issue
 

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Does running a gasket between the pieces work as an insulator?
I guess it does, a spacer under a carb always helps HP more than just a gasket on single plan intakes. The dyno will tell us.
 

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Curious how this will work out. I buy 4’x8’ sheets of 3/8” and make concrete floats for my buddies. Never thought to put a chunk under my 8/71
 

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Dave
I think a street engine would benefit more from a phenolic spacer. A race motor has less time to heat soak, more fuel running for cooling. Street engines need to stay lean to keep plugs good, have more idle time between boost.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Only update so far is that I finally sourced that big ass chunk of phenolic, got it cnc'd, and am good to go. Just need to finish the engine up and put enough stress on it to really test it out. Two solid inches of phenolic between the engine and blower, with water/meth injection I really doubt I'll have heat issues provided the CE holds up. I've since found one other guy that has done this, and he's never had any issues, but he only runs 10# boost.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
And to answer the previous question of "why", Dyers supplied me with a 2" aluminum spacer so the 8/71 would clear my dizzy. The phenolic is lighter, doesn't heat soak like aluminum, so since I have to run a spacer seemed like a win/win to me.
 

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And to answer the previous question of "why", Dyers supplied me with a 2" aluminum spacer so the 8/71 would clear my dizzy. The phenolic is lighter, doesn't heat soak like aluminum, so since I have to run a spacer seemed like a win/win to me.
Keep us posted... I was wanting do two 1" thick spacers . One on top of inter-cooler & one under inter-cooler on top of intake to keep temps down. Street car.. Post some photos.
 
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Might be a good idea to put spacers for each bolt hole. That takes the stress off the phenolic. Same height plus a couple thousandths so its torques with a piece of aluminum between it all instead of plastic. The gasket will make up the little extra height. Good way tonloolnr itnis most modern intakes, valvcovers oil pans all use this method to keep secure without stressing the part.
 
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