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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The car is an 80 Coupe, silver over redfire. Race weight 2920 on motor with no bottle in the car. 3050 in nitrous/class trim, but can be run at 2950 on nitrous.





Trans is an ArtCarr 1000hp powerglide with 9" 5400 rpm converter
Steel driveshaft, 9" rear with 4.10s and 28x10.5 tires

Motor:
434ci Dart Sportsman based motor
4" Eagle 4340 crank neutral balance
6.25" Eagle 4340 h-beams with L-19 bolts
4.155" Diamond flat top nitrous pistons
Compression last year around 13.8-14:1
AFR 225s with ported Exhaust, titanium intake valves 2.08, extreme duty steel exhaust valves, titanium retainers, probe shaft rockers, 8.35" trend 3/8" pushrods
Super Victor intake with custom dominator flange welded on and some porting
1050 Dominator
2" supercomp headers to 3.5" collector to 6" long schoenfield mufflers on the headers

2010s best ET's were...
1.44 sixty, [email protected] 1/8, [email protected] 1/4 mile at 2930 lbs at 74-77* temp
1.42 sixty, [email protected] 1/8 with borrowed PS Dominator, 5400 stall
1.38 sixty, [email protected] 1/8 with my dominator same night, 5400 stall
1.34 sixty, [email protected] 1/8 on a 175 hit with 4000 stall
1.42 sixty, [email protected] 1/8 on a 175 hit with 5400 stall, but didn't hit the gas until the sixty foot mark

I never got a chance to spray it off the line with the loose converter because the hood flew up on the one attempt I made. It did go 1.37 to the sixty on the back tires on that pass before the hood flew up at half track.

OK, so for the updates this year...
The AFR 225s have been opened up on the intake side now to flow [email protected], [email protected], a pick up of 13 and 15cfm respectively. The chambers were opened up to 58cc, so compression will be around 13.6:1 or so.
The intake has been opened up in the plenum area and top of the runners a lot.
Nitrous Express plumbed in a Propower style spraybar into the intake plenum area right between the runners and custom drilled the holes to point towards each runner appropriately.
I also picked up a Nitrous Express Propower plate for the class that requires a plate and won't accept the spraybar in the intake.

I think I've decided to forego dynoing the engine on an engine dyno and instead installing a new main body on the carb and having Dan Davinci come tune at the track for me. Dan has been great working with me, even with my tight a$$ed budget. So for any of your carb rebuilding or tuning needs, I'd strongly suggest Dan Davinci and of course let him know I sent ya.

Re-using the Cometic MLS gaskets, sprayed each layer with two coats of permatex copper spray to help prevent mysterious oil leaks...





Had to trim the 1262R gaskets. Doesn't look great, and took a long time, but everything matches up well now where the gasket is not blocking airflow...






Some new goodies...thats the NX Propower plate and a custom spraybar in the intake itself. Looks like Evil Street rules aren't going to let me use the spraybar in the intake, so I had to pick up the plate too. I think the spraybar will be way more efficient since the holes are drilled and pointed specifically at each runner and the flow doesn't have to make a turn from the upper plenum down to the runners.





New solenoids...




 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No vacuum pump and I am kind of watching for a deal on an electric pump. I tried to trade a guy my pump and cash for one that was on a motor he was selling, but he wasn't interested LOL.

Hard to justify spending $300-$500 plus for those items when the HP gain is very minimal.
 

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You should be faster for sure. I have been 5.50 @ 3200# with all most the same set up. I was spraying 300 with a plate though. But 5.94 is off for your setup to me. My converter only goes to 4600.
 

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I also have a vacuum pump and electric water pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, hopefully I'll get the combo figured out this year!
 

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Thats what i was thinking to. Converter is to loose for nitrous.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I asked Alan at ArtCarr about spraying it with 300 and he said it would take it and would only gain 300-500 more rpms. It goes to either 5200 or 5400 on the transbrake on motor. Car sixty footing 1.38 on motor. When the converter only went to 4000, it would actually spin the tires on motor because it wasn't putting down enough power to keep them planted.
I was a bit afraid that it may be too loose, but if he's correct and if it does gain 500 rpms on the gas, that still gives me a 1500 rpm useable range between shifts. Its a 1.80 straight cut gear glide.

I think I'm more worried about the car standing up on the bumper and how to control that than I am about the converter. It did it once last year and I figured out how to control it, but it may be a different beast this year.
 

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When do you start racing in TX?

The Vacuum Pump should be good for some HP because it would improve ring seal.
It would be easier to install without the waterpump there. But you could always use a mandrel drive
or double groove crank pulley to get everything to line up.

Good luck this year!
I have 225's on my car as well with a stock block.
So far I've gone a 9.59 @ 142 on a 100 shot using a Big Shot Plate and foot braking it.

Who ported the intake?
 

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About what could you expect in et gain with the electric wp and a vacuum pump?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I hope to be testing in a couple weeks. The tracks area already open for T&T, the larger events start up in March.

I have some grudge races setup for March 5th. I believe my first event where I'm running in a class will be around March 19th or 26th.
 

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Yeah,I was surprised when you had that converter loosened last year.Seems awful loose on motor(mine only goes to 4200 on motor),but who knows-hope it works for you.I'm in a similar situation as I want to run a class with an ET Street or possibly a 275 tire with no bars,so I'm concerned about wheelstands and chassis tuning.Good luck!Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Man the thing was just a turd off the line on motor with that 4000 stall. I really only wanted to loosen it to about 4800, so it went a little too loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
car looks good Carl!

Damn that Red Jewel C6 in the right lane on your first pic was sexy at Pinks!
And I beat him with me on motor. I had 250 lbs in the car, went a 10.07 to his 10.32 I think.
 

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Man the thing was just a turd off the line on motor with that 4000 stall. I really only wanted to loosen it to about 4800, so it went a little too loose.
More nitrous with the 4000 converter and it would have ran good. You are going to have to decide on running nitrous or N/A. You can't be in the middle.
 

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Man the thing was just a turd off the line on motor with that 4000 stall. I really only wanted to loosen it to about 4800, so it went a little too loose.
Yeah man I would guess your blowing right through the rpm range your converter is designed to work effienctly. My car ran a 5.45 with mid-high 1.2 60' and on the motor the 60' would be in the 1.6 range!! There is NOT a converter out there that will take advantage of running on the motor and nitrous, its one or the other. If you want to go fast, spray 250+ thru it, new converter and maybe kill the rear gear to help with the wheel stand and take advantage of your newly found low end torque. It will be a TOTAL POOCH on motor but it will be more streetable and faster ;)
 

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IMO you will gain quite a bit just from the electric water pump and a good vacuum pump. also with with a 300 hit your tq converter will go way past 6000 rpm, and I know that will be way past your peek tq, you want it to flash right before your peek tq on spray.
Are you using a progressive controler or a 7351?
 
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