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Discussion Starter #6
Wiring is very important. Our cars are not drag cars, but road race cars, where 45minutes of run time is just a warm up. We run 3 hour races with a 6 hour and a 24 hour endurance. Wiring that is capable and reliable is very important. Even if you adopt a few things from that read, you'll make your car more reliable.

We spend 30-60k$ to get to a race. One faulty system can end that race in a heartbeat. It's cheap insurance.
 

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Those are very similiar to the harness that "Sparkie" aka Mike Brown did for me with my BS3 harness.RIP Mike.

Tim
 

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Here are a few pics.









I cringe every time I'm at the track in the pits and see sub par wiring on nice cars.

Tim
 

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i got ahold of these awhile back,truly amazing but who can afford it? lol
There are plenty of low cost Mil spec circular connector options out there. Some places even loan/rent good crimpers if you don't have them or can't borrow some locally. Even the trick shrink boots aren't bad from catalog distributors like Mouser/Digikey/Newark etc.

Deutsch Autosport and Souriau are way out on the extreme edge and are for the ultra weight conscious builder. Unless your running PX/PS or some other weight critical deal there is a lot cheaper ways to save weight.

Tow fuel + entry fee + food and drinks etc being wasted because your shit won't fire at the track ( and 99% of the time that's where it becomes possessed, never does it backing off the trailer at home ) because of an electrical gremlin will usually cost more than a few decent connectors and some time spent in the shop over the winter.

If you are real crafty you might even find that a few of the very large distributors will send samples of this stuff for free if you go to their website, register and fill out their online request forms. Sometimes your "company" needs to evaluate a connection system for form,fit , and function for an upcoming proprietary program you are working on..

/just sayin.. wink wink..

It's worth the effort to de-fuckup your wiring. When you build it yourself you know it and if there is a problem you can find it and fix it quick.

If you take nothing else away from all of what they have in that article pay special attention to how they left a little loop of extra cable just outside the seated terminal to give some extra cable if a terminal needs to be replaced. You can't believe how little extra cable is available in atypical harness until you have to repair one.. you either have to rip the bundle open, run a whole new cable external to the existing bundle or put a shit ton of strain on the repaired terminal by stretching the cable to get it back into the connector. That is a good tip.

For you guys who like tech stuff - the part where they show the saltwater "wicking" into the cable is actually capillary action,one of the ways that trees use to pull water up 100 meters or more. It's a big problem/concern in the commercial wiring world. Another thing to ponder is the air volume trapped in a sealed connection system. Say you assemble it at 70 deg F and it's an under hood application that goes up to 250 deg f plus. Guess what the air pressure does inside that connector when everything heats up? It either holds and goes way up or sneaks by the seal.. or into the cable itself. Now say you drove into a puddle of 70 deg F water and splashed said connector. Pressure drops like a rock and can pull water past the seals or even up the cable from a hole or nick or an unsealed upstream termination. I've seen it happen in testing.. crazy stuff!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If you take nothing else away from all of what they have in that article pay special attention to how they left a little loop of extra cable just outside the seated terminal to give some extra cable if a terminal needs to be replaced. You can't believe how little extra cable is available in atypical harness until you have to repair one.. you either have to rip the bundle open, run a whole new cable external to the existing bundle or put a shit ton of strain on the repaired terminal by stretching the cable to get it back into the connector. That is a good tip.

For you guys who like tech stuff - the part where they show the saltwater "wicking" into the cable is actually capillary action,one of the ways that trees use to pull water up 100 meters or more. It's a big problem/concern in the commercial wiring world. Another thing to ponder is the air volume trapped in a sealed connection system. Say you assemble it at 70 deg F and it's an under hood application that goes up to 250 deg f plus. Guess what the air pressure does inside that connector when everything heats up? It either holds and goes way up or sneaks by the seal.. or into the cable itself. Now say you drove into a puddle of 70 deg F water and splashed said connector. Pressure drops like a rock and can pull water past the seals or even up the cable from a hole or nick or an unsealed upstream termination. I've seen it happen in testing.. crazy stuff!

"Service loops" save your ass later, and add GREAT strain protection.

What do you do about those water/wicking/airpocket issues? Add a breather tube or just roll with it?
 

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90 percent of the people on this board do not need a harness like that but you can build a nice fuctinal harnes and keep the cost down you dont need dr25 shrink a good mil spec with out the dr name will work fine you can get crimp and fourm pins for the duech conectors and use a w crinper if need be but i do hate to use the non mill spec wire its just so much nicer to work with there is a guy the does alot of wireing on the import cars seems to do nice work and his marke up is not threw the roof look up speed theory on face book his name is joel
 

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Service loops done the way have pictured is the work of an artist. To get them to look that nice is very tricky. Some day my Duramax harnesses will hopefully be that nice.:rolleyes:

Great links Louis!
 

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Kick ass work! Agreed re the Service Loops, In fact I think they should be avoided for the most part as it can mess up the resistance levels of the wires if they are bent too tightly/kinked etc.
 

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90 percent of the people on this board do not need a harness like that but you can build a nice fuctinal harnes and keep the cost down you dont need dr25 shrink a good mil spec with out the dr name will work fine you can get crimp and fourm pins for the duech conectors and use a w crinper if need be but i do hate to use the non mill spec wire its just so much nicer to work with there is a guy the does alot of wireing on the import cars seems to do nice work and his marke up is not threw the roof look up speed theory on face book his name is joel
Thanks Matt!

Kick ass work! Agreed re the Service Loops, In fact I think they should be avoided for the most part as it can mess up the resistance levels of the wires if they are bent too tightly/kinked etc.

If you're using a good quality conductor, with a thin insulation comparable like /16 or /32, this shouldn't be a concern; and if you are actually 'kinking' while making the loop...you're not paying enough attention.

On topic, the links from RBRacing are great; there is even great resources direct from manufacturers if you know where to look; for instance Raychem has their entire Codes of Practice..pain to get but it's pretty neat. I'd also recommend the NASA Wiring Standards & Procedures for anyone looking for more information.

What I can say is motorsport wiring is more about knowing what to do in any situation during the production of a loom, rather than stacking up as much knowledge as possible. It is important to have guidelines and standards, however MIL and NASA standards are for a whole other realm of things; any form of motorsport will have other aspects that need to be compensated for.

At the end of the day, you can only learn so much from a book!

Not to thread jack..but anything I can do for anyone feel free to contact me, email is best - [email protected]. Wether it's questions or looking for materials, I'd be glad to help.

Joel
 

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Thanks Matt!




If you're using a good quality conductor, with a thin insulation comparable like /16 or /32, this shouldn't be a concern; and if you are actually 'kinking' while making the loop...you're not paying enough attention.

On topic, the links from RBRacing are great; there is even great resources direct from manufacturers if you know where to look; for instance Raychem has their entire Codes of Practice..pain to get but it's pretty neat. I'd also recommend the NASA Wiring Standards & Procedures for anyone looking for more information.

What I can say is motorsport wiring is more about knowing what to do in any situation during the production of a loom, rather than stacking up as much knowledge as possible. It is important to have guidelines and standards, however MIL and NASA standards are for a whole other realm of things; any form of motorsport will have other aspects that need to be compensated for.

At the end of the day, you can only learn so much from a book!

Not to thread jack..but anything I can do for anyone feel free to contact me, email is best - [email protected]. Wether it's questions or looking for materials, I'd be glad to help.

Joel
Joel its funny you just posted, as i just sent you a message on Facebook after I found your stuff there!

Wanted to talk you about some stuff!

Look for a message from : Frank Schinchirimini
 

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If you're using a good quality conductor, with a thin insulation comparable like /16 or /32, this shouldn't be a concern; and if you are actually 'kinking' while making the loop...you're not paying enough attention.
I should have been a bit clearer. I dont think i can make service loops that small, neat, and consistent and have run into troubles when Ive tried as the harness gets horsed around in/out in/out ( mamas got a squeeze box? ) anyways then had some weird resistance problems and found out that my little access loops were kinked and messing things up. Keep in mind too im hacking up harnesses for conversions and seldom start from scratch either so my remarks were for anyone else perhaps trying to attempt this on their own, not in regards to that tip top work in those pics. TIP TOP indeed
 

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Joel its funny you just posted, as i just sent you a message on Facebook after I found your stuff there!

Wanted to talk you about some stuff!

Look for a message from : Frank Schinchirimini

E-Mail Sent! Thanks Frank!

I should have been a bit clearer. I dont think i can make service loops that small, neat, and consistent and have run into troubles when Ive tried as the harness gets horsed around in/out in/out ( mamas got a squeeze box? ) anyways then had some weird resistance problems and found out that my little access loops were kinked and messing things up. Keep in mind too im hacking up harnesses for conversions and seldom start from scratch either so my remarks were for anyone else perhaps trying to attempt this on their own, not in regards to that tip top work in those pics. TIP TOP indeed
I hear ya, with a standard SXL, GXL, or TXL, and anything really used by a large-scale manufacturer; the wire is meant to be functional. So yes, if you're attempting to loop it could cause you some headaches.

Neat little trick, use a precision straight pick to create your strain loop (using a /16 or equivalent conductor).
 
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