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I turned my solid Will Woods 20 years ago when the pad went metal on metal. Still have those brakes from the old car on the new car. The shavings came off in curls. Totally unlike machining a normal rotor. They have some grooves now. I just swap in new pads. They seat on the first pass. Stop fine from [email protected] I also foot brake up to 3300. I'll bet there are 2000+ passes on them. No issues. The vented front rotors have been replaced a few times due to heat cracks. Changed pads on them multiple times as well. Never touch the rotors. Just clean everything up on the caliper and slide them in.
Doug
 

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Again, we just want to try the lathe on something different.
I am not sending them off, if we can't practice on them, I'm not doing it.


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Take them to your local machine shop and have him put them in the flywheel grinder. ;)
One of the biggest problems with brake rotors is people don't know how to break them in right and basically ruin them in the first few stops.
 

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I can't put it any better than this:
That's the problem with drag car brake systems. For correct/optimum performance the pads/rotors should be bedded in. However, how do you do this with a drag car? I have a street/strip car that allows me the opportunity to find a road nearby to do the bedding process but I honestly don't see how many of the dedicated drag cars can follow this process.

The only thing I can think of is for a racer to show up at the track when the gates first open and use the return road to try and bed them in doing the best they can to follow the process.
 

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I'm not trying to be a smart ass but what do guys do that have full boogie race cars that can not be driven that way to break in a new set of pads?
That's the problem with drag car brake systems. For correct/optimum performance the pads/rotors should be bedded in. However, how do you do this with a drag car? I have a street/strip car that allows me the opportunity to find a road nearby to do the bedding process but I honestly don't see how many of the dedicated drag cars can follow this process.

The only thing I can think of is for a racer to show up at the track when the gates first open and use the return road to try and bed them in doing the best they can to follow the process.
I get it. I was just pointing out that not being able to bed them in properly is probably what leads to most of these issues. Once you "glaze" the rotor, all bets are off and your 2500.00 custom disc brakes are working at about 25% capacity as far as stopping power. Not understanding the importance of bedding the brakes is one thing, but knowing might help motivate someone to try and find a way. Just trying to help.
 

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I get it. I was just pointing out that not being able to bed them in properly is probably what leads to most of these issues. Once you "glaze" the rotor, all bets are off and your 2500.00 custom disc brakes are working at about 25% capacity as far as stopping power. Not understanding the importance of bedding the brakes is one thing, but knowing might help motivate someone to try and find a way. Just trying to help.
I get it but I was just curious if there was another way. I just ran into this very same problem as I had taken my car off the street couple years ago. I just recently went through the entire brake system with a caliper rebuild, all new pads, and new MC. I chose to put a months worth of auto insurance on my car and drove it to a local cruise which was just enough to bed the pads in.
 

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Could a break in be done with race car on jack stands in the shop?
There would be no way to load the pads and rotor enough. Think of a 3000# car going down the road at 60mph and trying to stop it as fast as you can without locking up the brakes. Even 30mph. Just not going to happen on jack stands.
 
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