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· T/S 368E
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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So my Wilwoods are ~30 years old and the rotors are grooved and glazed over.
They are the track only lightweight models.
It's ~3/8" thick, .375" IIRC.

How much is safe to clean up or is it a throw away part??
They are not even listed under rotors??
They have similar, but not the same.

We were going to take a touch off each side just to break the glaze, not fully remove the grooves??
These are the second set of pads on original rotors.


 

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I came up machining rotors. Honestly, once I started running high end rotors; DBA, Stoptech, etc, I just started replacing them, the cost is a wash for the time/ mileage they’ll last.

You could probably replace those for less than a single 2-piece rotor.
 

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What I have done is chock the rotor up true in my lathe, take my 4 1/2 grinder, and as the lathe is spinning (500-750 rpm) I break the glaze. I use a rubber pad with a 60 grit disc. I would not try and remove material, just get yourself enough of a crosshatch pattern to brake the glaze. I have done this to my 4 caliper rear set up after about the first 3 summers of abuse and it worked well. No issues or vibrations coming down from 162.
 

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What I have done is chock the rotor up true in my lathe, take my 4 1/2 grinder, and as the lathe is spinning (500-750 rpm) I break the glaze. I use a rubber pad with a 60 grit disc. I would not try and remove material, just get yourself enough of a crosshatch pattern to brake the glaze. I have done this to my 4 caliper rear set up after about the first 3 summers of abuse and it worked well. No issues or vibrations coming down from 162.
I've done this before, but not with a lathe. Mainly to remove any rust ridge.
 

· T/S 368E
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What I have done is chock the rotor up true in my lathe, take my 4 1/2 grinder, and as the lathe is spinning (500-750 rpm) I break the glaze. I use a rubber pad with a 60 grit disc. I would not try and remove material, just get yourself enough of a crosshatch pattern to brake the glaze. I have done this to my 4 caliper rear set up after about the first 3 summers of abuse and it worked well. No issues or vibrations coming down from 162.

The main reason we wanted to do this is to learn.
We now have access to a lathe and have been learning little projects, mostly doing trans stuff.


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Mine are as old as yours. I had a machinist in my area clean mine up on a blanchard years ago. I thought I talked to Wilwood and they told me that was how they should be machined. I think there is a minimum thickness spec on them too......
 

· T/S 368E
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Mine are as old as yours. I had a machinist in my area clean mine up on a blanchard years ago. I thought I talked to Wilwood and they told me that was how they should be machined. I think there is a minimum thickness spec on them too......

I haven't called them yet, but I didn't see anything mentioned??
I'm sure there are specs for that, like I said, we just want to try it.
These are the rears, much safer to learn on these than screwing up the fronts that do most of the work.


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What I have done is chock the rotor up true in my lathe, take my 4 1/2 grinder, and as the lathe is spinning (500-750 rpm) I break the glaze. I use a rubber pad with a 60 grit disc. I would not try and remove material, just get yourself enough of a crosshatch pattern to brake the glaze. I have done this to my 4 caliper rear set up after about the first 3 summers of abuse and it worked well. No issues or vibrations coming down from 162.
I did same thing earlier this year but with a stiff wire wheel and then hit it with a block of wood and some 60 grit. It worked well enough but those discs are hard as fuck.
 

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I did same thing earlier this year but with a stiff wire wheel and then hit it with a block of wood and some 60 grit. It worked well enough but those discs are hard as fuck.
Especially after we heat the phuck out of them about 50 times! lol
 

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I used to have Strange drag brakes (duals in the back) with the thin rotors and changed them to a set of Baer brakes with larger calipers, pads and a vented rotor. The main reason was it was too much trouble to throw the chute out every pass and repack it since I'm normally by myself. So stopping regularly from 155-160mph with a 3500lb car is tough on those small brakes and the rotors would look like hell. I don't remember the car losing any noticeable ET by changing to the heavier brakes.

One thing I was told by Baer is the Strange drag brake rotor is steel, not cast iron. Doesn't absorb the heat as fast as cast iron but is less prone to cracking but you get hot spots.

I imagine the machining the face of those steel rotors will be a little different then a cast iron rotor. I wonder how well those flex hone stones are on a steel rotor.
 
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I used these 3M discs on many of our fleet vehicles to deglaze the rotors when putting in new pads.
 

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Many options for DIY that would work. If you have to take them to someone you are probably better off just buying new discs.

I went through same thing a few years ago, took my 30year old Wilwoods to the local parts store to be turned and told them they were off an old hotrod so there was no thickness spec, just clean them up. As they were finishing them my machinist happened to walk in and told them to do a good job as they were going on my blown FED. Parts boy handed them back to me and said "no charge, I don't want a paper trail on these"
 

· T/S 368E
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
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Again, we just want to try the lathe on something different.
I am not sending them off, if we can't practice on them, I'm not doing it.


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Again, we just want to try the lathe on something different.
I am not sending them off, if we can't practice on them, I'm not doing it.


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Mr. I had mine machined 13 years ago. They looked horrible. A year later they looked just like they did originally. I have not touched them since.....I look them over when I have the wheels off for cracks and that is it. As long as they arent warped cracked or have any deep grooves in them I wouldnt worry about it.
 
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