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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've seen similar software around for sale that makes paper templates for you on difficult tubing copes, never used it before. I've always made my own paper templates by hand with trial and error on the copes that wouldn't fit in my notcher (it only goes to like 55*). These paper templates work really well if you don't have a tubing notcher also. Anyway, I stumbled on a free program. Would have come in really handy about 6 months ago doing my cage, but I have a really steep cope on the wishbone I'm fabricating tonite and this worked perfect!

Check it out!

http://www.metalgeek.com/cgi-system/php5.cgi/static/cope.pcgi#dan

Craig
 

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Neato. I've always used a sharpie and my one good eye which is now my bad eye.:D I'll have to try that thing Craig, Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Neato. I've always used a sharpie and my one good eye which is now my bad eye.:D I'll have to try that thing Craig, Thanks.
I hear ya....I got metal in my good eye the other night :smt093 Have you discovered the silver sharpie markers yet Jake?

Craig
 

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I hear ya....I got metal in my good eye the other night :smt093 Have you discovered the silver sharpie markers yet Jake?

Craig
Yea I have some of the silver sharpies but still like ole black.:D
 

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I've been using the silver sharpies for a couple years now but if you don't clean the tubing really well they are done. I'm using the silver pencils now they work good.
Heck I got a couple of those I havent even sharpened yet. Maybe I should do that and try them. I like fun stuff.:D
 

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there,s a sliver pencil out now that i want to get , it,s illuminates when you are welding or cutting with plasma/torch it was in a recent trade magazine at work

and ya i use silver sharpy,s all the time they work great on DOM aslong as its oilfree , i also use a MARKAL silver pencil and it works well
 

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there,s a sliver pencil out now that i want to get , it,s illuminates when you are welding or cutting with plasma/torch it was in a recent trade magazine at work

and ya i use silver sharpy,s all the time they work great on DOM aslong as its oilfree , i also use a MARKAL silver pencil and it works well
I would like to try one of those pencil's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah you have to wipe the oil off the tubing or it ruins the silver sharpies quick. I haven't found a way to clean the tip yet when it gets that way....maybe I'll try a shot of brake clean next time. It'd be nice to be able to see the marks when welding, I'm going to check out that stuff from Nissen too!
 

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Yeah you have to wipe the oil off the tubing or it ruins the silver sharpies quick. I haven't found a way to clean the tip yet when it gets that way....maybe I'll try a shot of brake clean next time. It'd be nice to be able to see the marks when welding, I'm going to check out that stuff from Nissen too!
you can order online , i juts tried but being from Canada they don,t have a online form that i can use , i e-mailed them asking if i can order thru them or if they have a supplier local to me
 

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I used to help an old guy that built his own midgets way back in the 50s he made a tool that consisted of a sleeve that fit over the tube. On this sleeve there was a whole bunch of welding rod held to the sleeve with a wide radiator clamp and some heavy grease that had a thumb screw on it. You simply held the tube you was trimming up, or one like it to the existing tube with a bubble protractor, slide the welding rod to hit the existing tube, tightened the clamp and take tool and slide it on the tube you want to cut and trace around welding rod. Don't go too short on the welding rod. It works like the tool for coping fancy moldings in wood work. If anyone makes one, store it on a tube. The welding rod don't slide good if bent. This will give you dead nuts accurate shape of cut you need.
 

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I used to help an old guy that built his own midgets way back in the 50s he made a tool that consisted of a sleeve that fit over the tube. On this sleeve there was a whole bunch of welding rod held to the sleeve with a wide radiator clamp and some heavy grease that had a thumb screw on it. You simply held the tube you was trimming up, or one like it to the existing tube with a bubble protractor, slide the welding rod to hit the existing tube, tightened the clamp and take tool and slide it on the tube you want to cut and trace around welding rod. Don't go too short on the welding rod. It works like the tool for coping fancy moldings in wood work. If anyone makes one, store it on a tube. The welding rod don't slide good if bent. This will give you dead nuts accurate shape of cut you need.
they make a tool like that http://www.vansantent.com/pipemaster.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I've tried the PipeMaster and wasn't real impressed. Maybe on mild steel that you're going to MIG, but wouldn't work worth a shit on moly that you need a real tight joint. It'd get you close but itd still take a bunch of tedious hand fitting to get a nice joint.
 

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What really peaves me is I use these cool little 2'' long by 1-1/2" sanding drums on my air tool but they are on national backorder from Jet and I cant seem to find anymore. I've got 2 left right now. I usually use the notcher to get me in the ball park and fine tune the notch with these drums especially when the notch lands on a bend and you need to do a radius notch.
 

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What really peaves me is I use these cool little 2'' long by 1-1/2" sanding drums on my air tool but they are on national backorder from Jet and I cant seem to find anymore. I've got 2 left right now. I usually use the notcher to get me in the ball park and fine tune the notch with these drums especially when the notch lands on a bend and you need to do a radius notch.
What do you use to turn them? Ive used them too, but turning them with an air grinder just detroys them. Turn down PSI, or do you use like a variable speed electric unit?
Kyle
 

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What do you use to turn them? Ive used them too, but turning them with an air grinder just detroys them. Turn down PSI, or do you use like a variable speed electric unit?
Kyle
Maybe thats whay I go thru them.:D:D I usually try and limit them with a finger under the trigger and using them carefully as not to burn/cut thru the on an edge of tubing.
 
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