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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am running the small scirocco radiator mounted to the bottom of the radiator core support in a 92 camaro, Center of water pump is about level with the top of the rad. thermostat hsng. is in the normal location with a built in radiator cap on top of it. Using a CSR electric pump and it is seeming to cavitate or air lock and not circulate water more than half of the time. At first I was able to get the system to take more water and thought I would solve it but now it is full when checked 2 or 3 times but still won't circulate. I am using a DC Fluke amp clamp meter to tell for sure it is cavitating as the amp draw is only 4-5 amps on 16 volts and when it does grab water and circ. properly the amps go to 14-15. It has been suggested that the CSR pumps do this and I need to drill the pump somehow and add an air bleeder ??? Another friend suggested water wetter ??? What does anyone think. I can take pictures of the system layout if anyone wants to see more detail.

Doug...
 

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Have you tried the system filler neck on the thermostat of the intake like many dragsters use when their radiator is low like yours? I fought a similair problem with my old Beretta when the radiator was below the motor. I ended up with a Griffin radiator and filled it thru the radiator but the pump had to be running when I filled it. If you opened the cap without the pump running water came out. With the pump running the level was 2/3 inches below the cap. RM
 

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If the top of your radiator is level or lower then where your thermostat normally goes I would agree with Real McCoy and you should run the high filler neck on the intake manifold. As far as Wetter Water goes that to me is a great product and in my experience it helps reduce engine temperature.
The other thing I did on our dragster is drill and tap a 10-32 hole in the top raditor fitting that I use as a bleed when I fill the system. I then just put a 10-32 button head screw in with thread sealer and it is good to go.
 

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Another good spot for a system bleed is at the rear of the intake manifold on each flange. Drill & tap each for petcocks and open while filling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here is a pic. of the deal.......


 

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i remeber it helped to jack the front end up high when filling the rad on my charger because the rad was mounted low and had the same problem.just be sure to finish and cap it before letting it down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Added a air bleeder/vent to the top center of the impeller housing on the water pump. Let the air out and presto !! no more air lock. Used -3, 90 degree fitting and a -3 cap for now.

Going to connect this bleeder/vent with a -3 fitting and line up to the thermostat housing and just let it bypass a tiny bit of water all the time.

This last step may be overkill but I feel it will prevent ever needing to take a chance on it collecting air again and going into cavatation when the time is not good. Should be self bleeding too. Will post a picture When I get back from the race Sunday morning........
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
SNAPPED A PIC THIS MORNING, WORKS FLAWLESS SO FAR, " KNOCK ON WOOD "
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Damn dude is there a waterpump buried in there somewhere....

I run the car Saturday and all is fantastic now.......
 
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