Your response baffles me???? I have had active pro stock guys tell me that smacking those big tires too hard will knock the wind right out of my engine.Lowering wheelie bars stopped the motor from shutting off on the launch? Wishful thinking.
Yep, lowering the bars kept the car from trying to put the rear wheels through the track surface. 2 clicks less compression was done as well at the same time. BTW, both bars were lowered 1/2", to 4.5" L, and 4.0" R. After reading the paint left by the bar wheels, the right bar is coming up 1/4" for tomorrows first pass.You do understand why moving the sissy bars down helps right? The sooner they hit the more it takes the hit off the tire. You can do the same with chassis adjustments and shock adjustments. A pic of where your bars are set and shock settings could help us help you. Is this a nos car or a n/a car? If it's a nos car you have to add more power of the hit or remove the hit on the tires with chassis and shock settings
Agreed. I could not believe that theory when it was first suggested to me. A lot of others scoffed at it as well. I could have saved myself a bunch of time, and a fair amount of money by acting on that theory first.Your dead hooking the tire. Very very bad with big tire and power. The tires act like a bouncing ball.
Two go-lithium batteries mounted sideways. I put them in the car before this problem showed up.
Even switched them out for the old, full size XS batteries for a couple of runs...…..problem was still there.
I have yet to reach where the car should be as far as 60' times, but 6 passes in, with 4 of them being 1.10
Who knows, maybe this problem will come back?
We are running off a notebook for now.I think the combo has no problem with 1.0X 60s. I also think the chassis is ready to get you there, without spending anymore money.
Log books work well, before data loggers.
We are running off a notebook for now.
Car is slowly moving in the right direction. I still need to squeeze 3-4 hundredths more out of the car to feel comfortable making the cut at Cecil this weekend.
Got a couple of suggestions from the trans and convertor builder that should help.
From the results we have been getting the last couple of weeks, it appears that my convertor is a little bit tight, but it is the only one I have for this car, and we are leaving tomorrow for Cecil.
At least the car goes down the track without looking stupid now. The bouncing issue has not shown itself at all for the last 6 passes.
We are going to have FUN at Cecil whether we made the field or not!
Well, a lot of time and successful runs have gone by since I started this thread.Good luck Mitch. I look forward to seeing you, Thrasher, and Bob on the live feed.
looks like Hutch was in the ballpark if the solenoid is/was the issue all along, electricalPro stock guys sound like clutch guys. Here's the deal and listen to the car not the people around you.
If you bolted the car to the ground, put it on the limiter and let off the transbrake, would the car bog, quit, stumble? Hell no! It has a converter and should go right instantly to stall speed, end of story.
Your car hooks and quits. You found a way to make it not initially hook and half ass disguised your problem. If you think I'm out to lunch that's ok but I'm not saying anything that isn't happening.
Of all the things, is your battery mounted length wise and shorting on the hit? Seen that a few times.