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Too Strong, For Too Long.
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Keep the wheel speed up!!! Haze the tires... Drive it like you stole it... If it's turning the tires, you know what to do, Mitch. You are not on a radial, drive it like it's a slick, because it is. Test with stiff and non stiff tires.



Only you will be able to make this happen. you are in the drivers seat.



I think, you are dead hooking, and the engine lugs, as it gets it gets on the tires. Wheel speed!!! Drive it!!!




Tighten your shocks up and drive it like a hard tail dragster. It may give you a different look at whats going on.
 

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You do understand why moving the sissy bars down helps right? The sooner they hit the more it takes the hit off the tire. You can do the same with chassis adjustments and shock adjustments. A pic of where your bars are set and shock settings could help us help you. Is this a nos car or a n/a car? If it's a nos car you have to add more power of the hit or remove the hit on the tires with chassis and shock settings
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Lowering wheelie bars stopped the motor from shutting off on the launch? Wishful thinking.


Hutch
Your response baffles me???? I have had active pro stock guys tell me that smacking those big tires too hard will knock the wind right out of my engine.


You do understand why moving the sissy bars down helps right? The sooner they hit the more it takes the hit off the tire. You can do the same with chassis adjustments and shock adjustments. A pic of where your bars are set and shock settings could help us help you. Is this a nos car or a n/a car? If it's a nos car you have to add more power of the hit or remove the hit on the tires with chassis and shock settings
Yep, lowering the bars kept the car from trying to put the rear wheels through the track surface. 2 clicks less compression was done as well at the same time. BTW, both bars were lowered 1/2", to 4.5" L, and 4.0" R. After reading the paint left by the bar wheels, the right bar is coming up 1/4" for tomorrows first pass.


It is an NA car, so I am hitting it with a tad over 1300hp where the converter flashes.


The car is behaving very well with the new 4-link setting, and I am pretty hopeful that we can run at any track now with small wheelie bar and shock adjustments.


Your dead hooking the tire. Very very bad with big tire and power. The tires act like a bouncing ball.
Agreed. I could not believe that theory when it was first suggested to me. A lot of others scoffed at it as well. I could have saved myself a bunch of time, and a fair amount of money by acting on that theory first.

I bought the car turn key, and it was running fine when I first got it, but it did noticeably pull the motor down without disrupting the launch. My guess is that as the engine started loosing a little bit of power as the runs kept piling up, it reached the point where traction overpowered the engine.

I hope to get 2-3 runs in this weekend before loading up for the YB Nats. Then we will see if I can figure out how to make the car leave right on my first ever radial prep surface.:-D

Looking forward to it......:cool:
 

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A n/a car can make you what to hang yourself when this shit happens. I'm a nos guy and just add more power. Make very small adjustments from where it's at now and good luck. glade its going in the right direction.
 

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Pro stock guys sound like clutch guys. Here's the deal and listen to the car not the people around you.

If you bolted the car to the ground, put it on the limiter and let off the transbrake, would the car bog, quit, stumble? Hell no! It has a converter and should go right instantly to stall speed, end of story.

Your car hooks and quits. You found a way to make it not initially hook and half ass disguised your problem. If you think I'm out to lunch that's ok but I'm not saying anything that isn't happening.

Of all the things, is your battery mounted length wise and shorting on the hit? Seen that a few times.


Hutch
 

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Discussion Starter #73 (Edited)
Two go-lithium batteries mounted sideways. I put them in the car before this problem showed up.


Even switched them out for the old, full size XS batteries for a couple of runs...…..problem was still there.

I have yet to reach where the car should be as far as 60' times, but 6 passes in, with 4 of them being 1.10

Who knows, maybe this problem will come back?
 

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Two go-lithium batteries mounted sideways. I put them in the car before this problem showed up.


Even switched them out for the old, full size XS batteries for a couple of runs...…..problem was still there.

I have yet to reach where the car should be as far as 60' times, but 6 passes in, with 4 of them being 1.10

Who knows, maybe this problem will come back?



I think the combo has no problem with 1.0X 60s. I also think the chassis is ready to get you there, without spending anymore money.


Log books work well, before data loggers.:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #75
I think the combo has no problem with 1.0X 60s. I also think the chassis is ready to get you there, without spending anymore money.


Log books work well, before data loggers.:cool:
We are running off a notebook for now.

Car is slowly moving in the right direction. I still need to squeeze 3-4 hundredths more out of the car to feel comfortable making the cut at Cecil this weekend.

Got a couple of suggestions from the trans and convertor builder that should help.

From the results we have been getting the last couple of weeks, it appears that my convertor is a little bit tight, but it is the only one I have for this car, and we are leaving tomorrow for Cecil.

At least the car goes down the track without looking stupid now. The bouncing issue has not shown itself at all for the last 6 passes.

We are going to have FUN at Cecil whether we made the field or not!:cool:
 

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We are running off a notebook for now.

Car is slowly moving in the right direction. I still need to squeeze 3-4 hundredths more out of the car to feel comfortable making the cut at Cecil this weekend.

Got a couple of suggestions from the trans and convertor builder that should help.

From the results we have been getting the last couple of weeks, it appears that my convertor is a little bit tight, but it is the only one I have for this car, and we are leaving tomorrow for Cecil.

At least the car goes down the track without looking stupid now. The bouncing issue has not shown itself at all for the last 6 passes.

We are going to have FUN at Cecil whether we made the field or not!:cool:



Good luck Mitch. I look forward to seeing you, Thrasher, and Bob on the live feed.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Good luck Mitch. I look forward to seeing you, Thrasher, and Bob on the live feed.
Well, a lot of time and successful runs have gone by since I started this thread.

I still cannot say for certain what the root of my problem was, but we did have an incident occur at the YB race that might have been my issue all along.

While the car never once "hopped" leaving the starting line, on maybe the 3rd or 4th test pass we made, the car would not fire in the lanes. Tried several times with no luck. Drifted the car forward hoping to be able to get out of everybody's way, and was able to get it to fire up while I was coasting along.

Made a good pass with no issues. Back at the pits we found that the main post on the firewall mounted solenoid was broken inside the plastic body and would turn slightly. When it turned it would lose power. It was the side of the solenoid that fed power to the ignition box, and all electrical components inside the car.

Put a new solenoid on the firewall and all was fine again.

It would not surprise me if that was my issue all along....
 

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Saw this thread some time ago, just went through again. Glad you got it fixed. Guess I'd have to ask; was the solenoid a bolt in or pressed in? :p
 

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Pro stock guys sound like clutch guys. Here's the deal and listen to the car not the people around you.

If you bolted the car to the ground, put it on the limiter and let off the transbrake, would the car bog, quit, stumble? Hell no! It has a converter and should go right instantly to stall speed, end of story.

Your car hooks and quits. You found a way to make it not initially hook and half ass disguised your problem. If you think I'm out to lunch that's ok but I'm not saying anything that isn't happening.

Of all the things, is your battery mounted length wise and shorting on the hit? Seen that a few times.


Hutch
looks like Hutch was in the ballpark if the solenoid is/was the issue all along, electrical
 
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