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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm using Jake's D3 transbrake in my 4L80E. I want to wire it so that the activation button doesn't have to be pressed each time I want to go in reverse, so I was looked at splicing it into the 12v reverse light supply coming off the NSS. I've identified the correct wire to splice into, but I also want to put a safety switch on it so that the transbrake won't function at all unless the toggle is set to ON. I already have these DC 32v fuse block holders installed in the car for other items, so I was just going to tap into those.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When using 2 relays like in the image, the reverse light wire should be isolated by the relay, so the only time there will be 12v present (and the reverse lights come on) is when the shifter is in reverse.
 

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@jakeshoe offers this valve body with a "no button" reverse option
Or at least used to
I always prefer a hydraulic-only apply for reverse. That way if you ever find yourself with a transbrake apply issue/relay issue/etc you aren't stuck without reverse

That said...LOADS of valve bodies (including some of mine) require the transbrake for reverse and it's really just fine...I just prefer hydraulic only whenever possible and some designs make it nearly impossible or just very impractical
 

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My experience caused me to add another switch inline headed to the TB terminal. My 12V from the reverse lights was also wired to the TB. Was in the car for 7 years and hundreds of passes without issue, and the bump box is wired with the Holley flyback voltage module. A few months back I was running first round, with mehhh track prep, and I was on a radial tire. There were tire chatter marks all over the first 80' of the lane. No good spot to position the car. Left on the guy and got to the top of first gear, and started into some violent tire shake. I short shifted 2nd, and at that moment the rear wheels locked up solid.......at about 70mph!. It was like driving my dads chevette in the snow and yanking on the parking brake, only, I wasn't expecting this! Car slid about 250'. I managed to keep it off the wall, but we had to put the rear wheels on skates to get it back to the trailer. Getting it in the trailer was just as fun! We believe the tire shake rattled the micro switch just enough to send a momentary 12V to the TB. Hutch said at that speed, once the band touched the drum, it literally welded itself on. The holley monitors 12V from my TB button, and I never touched it once we saw driveshaft rpm, so we know the 12V didn't come from the button. I now have a second switch in between the reverse light micro switch and the TB, so I can isolate the reverse lights from the circuit when at the track. Another change I made was to remove the led reverse lights, and put the old style bulbs back in. Our thinking is that if there is any residual voltage in the reverse circuit, the lights should help remove that.
 
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Not a great video, but you get the idea........you can see how shit the starting line is at the very end.
 

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We use just a dash mounted back lit 20 amp rated toggle switch that supplies independent 12v to the TB solenoid, click the switch on when you want to reverse, off when you've stopped reversing. The back lit switch stops you from forgetting to switch it off.
 
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