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Does the angle of the drive shaft matter coming out of the trans in relation to the pinion angle? Or is it all in the rear as long as the ujoint does not bind at the trans. I have solid motor mounts and a rubber trans mount if that matters.
 

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You want to start with the transmission output/crankshaft centerline and the pinion pointing directly at one another. Basically no angle whatsoever in the u joints. Then, you adjust the pinion down to you your desired pinion angle in relation to the driveshaft not the ground.
 

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I just gotta say,the topic of pinion angle has to be the most confusing topic in racing.after years on the bullet,years on other forums and 25+ years at racetracks and around racecars, i hardly remember any two explanations,procedures or theories agreeing with another.Is it because pinion angle doesnt really matter aside from making sure it doesnt go positive in relation to the driveshaft?
 

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It matters, it does seem to be very missunderstood.
I've always understood it helps driveshaft life. Never understood people thinking it helps traction lol... I know people use pinion angle as reference point when changing instant center. Otherwise it's useless information like all the attachment points on a 4 link
 

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I've always understood it helps driveshaft life. Never understood people thinking it helps traction lol... I know people use pinion angle as reference point when changing instant center. Otherwise it's useless information like all the attachment points on a 4 link


I dont know anyone who uses it as a point of reference on IC, I would be one that will say it effects the traction of a car, and I dont even understand what you are getting at the end:smt102
 

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I dont know anyone who uses it as a point of reference on IC, I would be one that will say it effects the traction of a car, and I dont even understand what you are getting at the end:smt102
Adjusting effects traction because your changing the instant center( say 4 link) when you rotate housing. What happens you cause more bind in the driveshaft doing it this way. You can keep the same pinion angle and change the control arm location getting same effect if able to do so.
 

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Adjusting effects traction because your changing the instant center( say 4 link) when you rotate housing. What happens you cause more bind in the driveshaft doing it this way. You can keep the same pinion angle and change the control arm location getting same effect if able to do so.
In theory I can understand where you're coming from but if you adjust the PA from 0* to 2* down lets say, realistically how small of an adjustment does that do to the upper bars? 1/8th? I can't imagine the IC moving much but thats just me. I tried moving mine from 0* to down 3* and saw no change in 60'.

-Mark
 

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What pinion angle do you currnetly run on your malibu. From looks of avatar whatever it is its working.
2.5* right now. I use a digital angle finder:smt102

Like its be posted 100 time in here, there are two Camps on this and no one is moving. There are guys that move it and see a change and there are guys that have not and will tell you it cant change anything then when they do,,,, it was not the pinion angle that changed it. ;):smt102
 

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In theory I can understand where you're coming from but if you adjust the PA from 0* to 2* down lets say, realistically how small of an adjustment does that do to the upper bars? 1/8th? I can't imagine the IC moving much but thats just me. I tried moving mine from 0* to down 3* and saw no change in 60'.

-Mark
You're right but some really try and move the angle around. The Pinion angle should be close as possible 0 but its not possible using stock engine locations etc... I set mine 1.5 degree and have adjusted Engine/transmission height best i could in relation to rearend.
 

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2.5* right now. I use a digital angle finder:smt102

Like its be posted 100 time in here, there are two Camps on this and no one is moving. There are guys that move it and see a change and there are guys that have not and will tell you it cant change anything then when they do,,,, it was not the pinion angle that changed it. ;):smt102
YUP! At least a 100 and I am of the belief it has no traction benefit.
 

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The pa at the trans end needs to match the pa at the pinion side, on leaf spring cars the pa at the rear needs to be down more cause of axle wrap under load.. Pa is`nt a significant tuning tool but has to be correct {along with yoke engagement into the trans} in order for the rear suspension to work properly.
 

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So it seems ideally you want the crankshaft/trans centerline to be parallel with the pinion centerline at max driveshaft rpm. and ideally you want between 1/2 degree and 3 degrees angles on each side of the driveshaft to achieve this.

Sound right??
 

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The driveshaft/ u-joint manufacturers generally recommend a small <1* offset to the u-joints to promote cycling of the needle bearings (think valve spring rotation) as a dead straight line between output shaft and pinion would tend to drive the needles into the thrust and drive sides of the trunion and bearing caps respectively. In track only drag cars this is less important than street driven vehicles but it is still a maintenance concern.

The note on leaf spring cars and the amount of static pinion angle is generalized and does not represent what seems to work with the typical Cal-trac or similar set up which has almost no 'wrap-up'. My set-up is hardly optimal, but at the moment I also have about -2.5* static pinion angle with the car at race weight, me in it.
 
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