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This is mostly a street car but I thought I'd ask.

I spent phuckloads of time, money, and aggravation setting my full weight Cobra up for road course until finally almost wanting to throw it off a cliff at an event. MM was there and Chris came over and helped me sort out some of my shock issues without trying to sell me on anything.

So a couple years later now it really paid of well for them, I was on the phone with him the next day ordering the basic shock/spring package. Went bits and pieces here and there and now have everything they sell short of the torque arm and roll bar.


So I was asking the other day to Chris about how although I love the road course and street driving, dragstrip is just closer to me. And I don't expect the car to be cutting 1.60s, but the 2.20s I have now are just...embarassing. Was there any way I could swap to an adjustable strut and have different settings for street/road course/strip.

He goes into telling me about how any conventional upper/lower control arm dragstrip setup relies on weight transfer blah blah blah and how that directly contradicts what I'm trying to do on the road course, but swapping to a TA I could have the best of both worlds.

Apparently, it doesn't rely on weight transfer at all, and would allow me to keep my stiff spring setup. Running your average 26 x 10.5 slick, he said 1.60s were not out of the question and he gave me a bunch of other customer numbers to call who had dual purpose cars.

Called a few and they all confirmed. I have no reason to doubt Chris I have not bought one product from them that did not work the way they said it would, they all made improvements, and they all fit like a glove, but I cannot get it into my mind how this suspension system is working without transferring weight. I have to completely pull out my upper arms...

Anyone running anything similar to this? Can anyone explain how this setup works or confirm/refute Chris's statement?

I realize my mid 11 car is about four seconds slower than most of the cars on here but I figure everyone started somewhere and hopefully someone has some experience with a TA.
 

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Nitrous Junky
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10,820 Posts
Well our cars came with them but..

A properly setup TQ arm can Road race and pull down sick 60s. My car is one of the slow ones also. I am pulling 1.4x 60s N/A. I got a few bug to work out and hit it harder. Hopfully 1.3x 60s.

I have seen TQ arm cars in the 1.2x range and being force to 25.2 cert
 

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I am going out there with quite a stretch. I am building a super light Fox with a torque arm. The car is not finished yet, but targeting low 8s. I did decide to go 25.2 on the cage just in case I go even more crazy.

Understand, I have a road race car and a drag car, not one in the same. Both run torque arms. The only thing I have heard to refute the road race to drag car myth with a torque arm is spring and shock. I am running a drag Koni DA coil overs front and rear on my drag car. I am running them with a very long, super light springs (barely enough to keep the front up). I debated having a dual purpose car and was planning to have two coilover setups to swap them. The rest of the torque arm stuff is interchangeable.

NVH is huge if you go with the watts link, and better but still not stock with a panhard bar.

The other thing to consider with a dual purpose car is the cage. For lower power like you have, it is not a big problem. An SCCA/NASA cage is quite different from a 25.5/25.2 cage. They are not intercheable. I was the main reason I went with two cars. I have the best of both worlds, and an empty wallet to prove it.
 
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