Yellow Bullet Forums banner

1 - 20 of 65 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,759 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is the solid roller 4-bolt 408/F2 deal out of my truck. Here is a cut/paste of the post from my build thread:

For those that say side slinger prochargers wipe out front main bearings.....I show you this. For those that don't know this thing drives an F2 with no crank support. A testament to my engine builder.







Here are two pics of the decks on the block. You can see it was hurt pretty bad. I guess the cool thing is that it was hurt like this when it ran 8.99. Would have loved for the go-pro to be under the hood while this took place.





Here is a pic of the worst cylinder damage. The damage is from it sitting with water in the hole (I had no idea it was this bad). This was realized when I couldn't get the plugs out of it cause they had seized up from the water. Hoping that the cylinders will clean up with a slight hone job and a set of rings. If not, I'll just get another 6.0 block as the pistons are fine.




Thanks to Kurt Urban for bearing with me on the phone. Gave me and my engine builder some good ideas on how to open the tuning window a bit and completely avoid the cooling system issues all together.

Most everybody is telling me that I run too much timing in this thing. On the 8.99 pass it made 26-27 lbs of boost and I had 20* in it. While I only have about 30 passes under my belt with this combo, it just won't hardly run a number with timing numbers comparable to what the turbo guys are running. I add a degree.......it picks up. I add a degree.......it picks up....and on and on till the head gaskets are totally compromised.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,161 Posts
Going 6 bolt now?


EDIT: Saw the middle text there between teh pics.

Think it'll be back out this year?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,034 Posts
What makes you say that Kurt? Not doubting you, just curious what you are seeing that im not?

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,844 Posts
The parting line will rarely show wear because of the shape unless OEM bearings are used, and they never edge wear like that unless the crank is bending. When they shine like that in the block the crank is very unhappy, not running in a circle or staying straight. The running forces are pushing the crank down, my guess is the lower shells will show edge wear also. If they look symmetrical the crank might be the only problem.


Kurt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,759 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I guess this was the best case scenario. Care to share the ideas?
Basically just a dry deck 1/2" stud upgrade

Take that over and show your engine guy those bearings, the crank is not happy.

Kurt
I'm taking it to him tomorrow. I'll let you know if/what he says

The parting line will rarely show wear because of the shape unless OEM bearings are used, and they never edge wear like that unless the crank is bending. When they shine like that in the block the crank is very unhappy, not running in a circle or staying straight. The running forces are pushing the crank down, my guess is the lower shells will show edge wear also. If they look symmetrical the crank might be the only problem.


Kurt
Funny you mention those things. The rear main (cap side) is worn just only on the very edge of the bearing to the point that it is showing orange. I just assumed that the bearing/cap location wasn't jiving with the radius on the crankshaft. I'll get some pics of the cap side and the rod bearings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,759 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Also, Kurt

I'm the guy you sent the email to today regarding the back order on the 1/2" head studs. Not sure if you put 2 and 2 together with my email address and stuff. You mentioned that the studs where about 2 weeks out. Keep me posted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,759 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Going 6 bolt now?


EDIT: Saw the middle text there between teh pics.

Think it'll be back out this year?
It should be back out this year. I say should but you just never know with these engine guys......lol

I'm hoping to make a truck race in October at RPR.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,759 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Also Kurt,

I assume that the crank isn't happy cause it is detonating (what causing it to rattle the heads so bad).
With the cooling system upgrades we talked about on the phone, just should alleviate much of that, I would assume. Motor should be much more happy all around, huh?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,844 Posts
The reason the crank is bending is hard to define, but the bearing is telling you it's time to check this out! It might be the same thing that's pushing the gasket, but make sure your engine guy gets his eyes on that as he might make some adjustments.

Kurt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,759 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Kurt,

While I was packing this thing up, I notice something very strange. The trigger wheel was showing some light where on the OD of it, and we had always assumed that it was an issue with it tearing up the alternator belt a couple of times and we assumed that pieces of the belt where getting thrown between it and sensor because the wear on the wheel was more of a light scuff (no gouging marks at all). Well looking at the pickup, it is obvious that it has touched the trigger wheel at some point. This has been one of those issues where we noticed the wear marks on the OD of the wheel, getting more and more noticeable as we ran it. But the truck never seems to have a misfire, so we didn't give it too much thought. I'm using your pickup mount that you sell on your website and the trigger wheel is very solidly mounted to the back side of the balancer. I'll try to get you a pic of the sensor and wheel mounting.

I run about .045" clearance in the sensor pickup. Now your bracket seems strong enough that it is not a vibration issue, and the crank is not bending .045" between the first main and the balancer(I assume it would snap before that) and the bearing aren't showing enough solid wear to indicate that the crank can or has been able to move that much. I make these statements, but it is obvious that something is moving around quite a bit. Any thoughts on this?

Also, here are the pics of the mains (cap side). My engine builder said that there is obviously some flex in the crankshaft and his thoughts were basically this: We are trying to make chicken salad out of chicken shit. My stuff isn't junk, but it's a far cry from what it should be for the power it is making (especially with a side mount blower as big as the F2). He was actually surprised that everything looked as good as it did for what it is. He was expecting it to look much worse. His thoughts are that these parts really have no business making this kind of power, but it's what I gave him to work with. So here we go.

Said pics:


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,759 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
In the first pic, #1 main is far left, then 2, 3, 4, 5

In the second pic, #1 main is the far right, then 2, 3, 4, 5
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,084 Posts
I wouldnt say it is uncommon for a trigger wheel to make contact with the sensor. It usually takes a fair bit of contact before any actual damage occurs to prevent it working correctly.

Ive seen it many times across many marques of car on OEM setups.

It's one reason they prefer to keep the trigger wheel within the crank/engine itself rather than far out on a front pulley. less chance of flex or movement.
 
1 - 20 of 65 Posts
Top