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Discussion Starter #1
Hello:


Guy's; do any of you know if I could remove the existing Crank studs in my 440. Then replace said studs with longer studs, and add a Main stud girdle to my 440? I want to know if I would need to re-align Bore the Block? Or would the main-stud Girdle, be a Bolt-In deal?

Thanks for any feed-Back. . - . - . - .The Big Guy
 

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im gonna say its gonna tighten up a bit. Get a bore mic and check it as is at proper torque then again with the new stuff.
 

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After you get the new stuff on check your dimensions. If you don't like them you can line hone the block. You won't have to line bore.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, it's a M-O-P-A-R. i HAVE BEEN THINKING ABOUT MAKING MY ENGINE MORE RELIABLE. The very thought, the mere notion of dropping say my crank-shaft out on the ground at speed, quite Frankly, freaks me OUT! This fear that I have regarding a mechanical melt-down, a failure of my drive line at Speed. This (THOUGHT), This thought has had me re-think my drive-line set up. Originally I had thought that I would add a second Gear-Vendors over-Drive. That way I was thinking that I could run deep Rear-End gears while still being able to run 200 M-P-H. But the thought of by spinning the Drive-shaft at Hyper-sonic R-P-M's, and then having a failure of my drive-shaft at 200 M-P-H frankly has me a bit unnerved.

I am currently thinking about running a 6-Speed manual transmission so that my car will have the Mechanical advantage that it will need to run both fastly, and quickly.

Any Thoughts?
 

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a dial bore mic is only going to tell you if the housing bores are ROUND

but on many Chryslers the issue is that the saddles do not stay in alignment

the ONLY mannor to really know if in all directions the block is stable or at least as good as they were when the other fasteners were used is to make a pass with a alignhone mandrel.
align hone will allways give you a more smooth surface for the insert to be able to pass out heat from the bearing...
 
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