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Discussion Starter #1
anyone on the bullett from the nashville or lebanon, TN area that knows a GOOD carb tuner. Im sick of dealing with these so called jackhole self proclaimed engine tuners. i do all the work on my junk except carb tuning, have tried countless times but cant never seem to get it just right.
 

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Have you tried Chris Cobb at Dyno Tune in Paris TN? And I'll be glad to talk you though some changes if you can posts specs of your vehicle, engine, and carb.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I see, whats up with that? I know im noob here and all but damn.
 

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you don't need a good carb tuner or otherwise for what you have and what you're doing, all you need to do is baseline your carb and fuel pressure and you can tune from there.

If you don't know how to set your fuel pressure, floats, idle and mixture screws correctly, just ask.
 

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Most here were trying to help, there are a couple in every forum that thinks there is one and only one way to make things work. Chris just had to clean it up as moderator, keep it on a path to help you. If you have any other questions ask away and we will try to help. One thing is you keep going back to the carb, was it better at some point and someone messed with it, or did the changes occur when you swapped heads and intake?
 

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anyone on the bullett from the nashville or lebanon, TN area that knows a GOOD carb tuner. Im sick of dealing with these so called jackhole self proclaimed engine tuners. i do all the work on my junk except carb tuning, have tried countless times but cant never seem to get it just right.
If I recall correctly, in the (deleted) information you said it was a little quicker in the 60’ but slower in the quarter. I wonder if it has too much spark advance. Most improved cylinder head combustion chamber designs don’t need as much spark lead as older stuff. Have you tried moving the timing around to learn the least timing it needs to run the best? Using too much timing will encourage a tuner to jet the carb too rich or too lean because the wrong AFR will slow the combustion and that will improve power. The maximum power AFR, usually near 12.5 to 12.8/1, has the highest combustion rate and so requires the least spark advance.
 

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Yes.......but he didn't have all the data to support it was actually better.......as Ed pointed out.

Low compression........heavy vehicle will need a bunch of timing to leave....but down track there are gains by taking timingout........
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, what i was thinking is after the better flowing heads (speirs 215cc import aluminum head) and better intake(eddy rpm air gap) were installed with over 100#'s of bed wood removed the truck should have shown more than marginal improvment?
Last fall: [email protected] with 1.80's 60' time.
Last weekend: [email protected] with 1.74 60' time.
 

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Ok, what i was thinking is after the better flowing heads (speirs 215cc import aluminum head) and better intake(eddy rpm air gap) were installed with over 100#'s of bed wood removed the truck should have shown more than marginal improvment?
Last fall: [email protected] with 1.80's 60' time.
Last weekend: [email protected] with 1.74 60' time.
Do you recall what the weather was like when it went 7.89 at 84 and what was the weather this past weekend down there?
 

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I would like to see 2 runs per tune change, "IF" it spins the tire, it will pick up a False Higher MPH and throw you off.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
All i can tell you about the carb is it worked before the swap, was tuned by a so called carb man because it would not rev past 5K after the swap. Now it will spin to 7K as it did before.....BUT the idle slowly drops at Random times not just when cold or hot or after a hard run or cruising, Just whenever it wants to. I dont know if this will help but when started cold it fires really quick everytime. You can drive it 1 mile turn it off, set a min restarting requires pumping the gas till it fires 5 sec. or so then reving it up a few times to make it sustain an idle. That is why I want to take it to someone who can tune carbs, I Openly Admitt I know the basic about carbs, I am by no means a carb man.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
7.89 weather was hott high 80's and humid, last weekend 70's almost cool very pleasant.
 

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Ok, what i was thinking is after the better flowing heads (speirs 215cc import aluminum head) and better intake(eddy rpm air gap) were installed with over 100#'s of bed wood removed the truck should have shown more than marginal improvment?
Last fall: [email protected] with 1.80's 60' time.
Last weekend: [email protected] with 1.74 60' time.
again, without weather and track data for each of the above passes, it's speculation comparing the 2 runs.

All you can do now is baseline and tune what you have now AT THE TRACK and without a weather station you still can't compare runs from one week to the next no mind from 7-8 months ago.
 

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The start/restart issue almost sounds like a internal leak, like a PV, if it fires right up cold and idles fine, no heat, its rich. But should start like its flooded warm restart, clear it out couple of times to stay running........
 

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The start/restart issue almost sounds like a internal leak, like a PV, if it fires right up cold and idles fine, no heat, its rich. But should start like its flooded warm restart, clear it out couple of times to stay running........
^^ what he said ^^

If it starts good when it is cold and is problematic after it has warmed up, it sounds like the carb guy richened it up. If a carb is correct for fully warmed up it will be cold-blooded if you are not using a choke. Don’t beat the carb guy up (if tuning carbs was easy even special__ed could do it), ask him for the information about what he did and what you need to put it back toward what it was before he worked on it.

Again, improved cylinder heads almost always need less spark advance than “normal” (whatever that is).
 
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