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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
We have been running Nitto drag radials on my fathers weekly bracket car the past couple of seasons (275/60-15). As the car has progressed from a mid 13 second car to a mid 12 second car, I feel we have reached the limits of the Nitto when it comes to consistency. Looking to try a new DOT tire this season.
Keeping in mind that while local weekly track prep is pretty good, I am sure it is not in line with Shakedown at E-town type prep, I was leaning toward a wrinkle wall tire. I know that a quick time pro or an ET street will get the job done(I run a 10.50 car on the Hoosiers), but I I wonder if he can get by with something that may offer a bit more tire life being it is only a 12.50 car.
Would a regular Hoosier quicktime get the job done, or the M&H muscle car DOT drag tires? Would the MT drag radial offer enough consistency for a bracket car? Looking for opinions
 

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We actually did an evaluation of consistency on a local 12.0 bracket car here and had excellent results with our P275/60R15 ET Street Radial, part # 3754R. I don't think you'd be disappointed.

Thanks,

Jason Moulton
 

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The 3754 28x11.5 ET Street is close to the same size as the 275/60, it would be more forgiving on a greasy track. I ran those for years. Great tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The 3754 28x11.5 ET Street is close to the same size as the 275/60, it would be more forgiving on a greasy track. I ran those for years. Great tire.
That is the tire we were leaning to originally, just wanted to get some opinions
 

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Discussion Starter #5
We actually did an evaluation of consistency on a local 12.0 bracket car here and had excellent results with our P275/60R15 ET Street Radial, part # 3754R. I don't think you'd be disappointed.

Thanks,

Jason Moulton
Jason,
I know it is a pretty open question (so many variables like weight, burnout style, etc), but any idea how long the radials lasted on the 12.0 car? I am trying to factor that into the decision.

Thank You
Travis Brown
 

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Travis,

It is a pretty tricky question. Are you talking mileage or 1/4 mile runs. Being reasonable with the tires you should at least get a season out of them.

Thanks,

Jason Moulton
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thank You Jason,
I am just talking 1/4 mile passes. He trailers to the track as he lives over an hour away. No need for wear and tear just getting to and from the track. Especially with rain/ dew/ fog and darkness. He will hit an occassional cruise in, but it is a small town, so it would be a less than a mile trip. It would be hard to put 50 street miles on the car in one summer in his town!
A typical season would be between 120 and 150 passes. he does a quick 1-2 burnout, so if he can get a season out of the radials, that would be great.
Thank you for the help

Travis
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The Nittos have their place, They are affordable and they last. If I was building a 13.0 or slower car for my local track, I would use them again. It is just at my track, it seems like they reach their consistent grip limits once you get in the 12.70 range.
Are they on par with the Mickey's.. Absolutely not...but on a slower car the extra life and lower cost may make them a better choice

Good tire...but not right for my father's application anymore
 

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I know different tracks have their preference, my local track used to be hard core M/T guys, one by one guys finally started switching over to Hoosiers (full slick and the street class I was running at the time quick time pro's) in every case, consistency got better, car's were'nt fluctuating those obnoxious .01-.03 in their 60's that kill any shot at winnign a bracket race since it multiples for the worse down track. Not to mention all the cars picked up some ET/mph comparing track conditions and ambient conditions from the previous season and races leading upto the switch.

From the moment I got my car, it's had nothing but Hoosier quick time pro's mounted on it...even for street use. In my first years of racing, I only raced 15-20 events/season for the first 3yrs, AND drove the car ALOT on the street. One set of the quick time pro's lasted the entire season, I would sell them to the boys in canada for half of new price and put a new set on in the spring. Street driving I ran 20psi, racing I was at 10psi on the 28x11.5 DOT QTP's.

I TRIED two set's of M/T 29.5x9 full slicks with M/T tubes when I changed motors and was running in the low 11's. My r/t's went to the way side. All the M/T guys at the track told me it was in my head, I knew better since the tree has always been my ace in the hole. BUT, to give them a fair shot, I tried two sets in a row that season...by mid season, I was tired of losing and not making at leaset the final 4. Ordered up the DOT QTP's, and what do you know...my R/T's came back to deadly consistant and making the final 4 was a daily routine again.

The key with any of these slicks is not doing a john force burnout. I learned that if I saw smoke, I screwed up and got them too hot, this was the case all the way down to 1.3X 60's in my car below. I kinda stumbled onto it botching a burnout once and had the best 60' of the day, so the next day I tried tiny burnouts and I had my most consistantly best 60's the car ever had...started telling my buddies, and they experienced the same results. smoke looks cool, but it's wasting rubber and getting them too hot-plain and simple, the tire guys have their formula's figured out, so trust them.

The DOT's QTP's are all a medium compound, but they hooled well weather we raced when it was 28-30*F in the a.m. fall series, or when the track was blistering hot during the peakl summer months...in brutal cold, I would do a longer burnout but for the majority of the season..small and sweet was key to bracket racing success.

I'm not dissing M/T tires at all, esspecially since they're a sponsor, I'm just giving you MY and OUR real world experience trying the two brands. You will not be disappointed with the longevity and consistency of the Hoosier QTP's...even when you drive them on the street ALONG with racing every weekend.
 

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Curious, what can be done when the track is greasy to bring back 60'....? Running a 275/60 et street. Same senerio as original post....slow 12.70 car, past couple weekends 60' has been off....and with it goes the r/t. Unlike most that run that tire, I drive car daily ....some days seeing several hundred miles ....lol. just curious. Thanks
 

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If the class allows goto a DOT "approved" slick. Most all tracks have a street class that approves them so long as they're stamped on the sidewall. Any bais ply is going to be so much more forgiving than a radial slick. I understand the infatuation with them, but unless a person has the chasis/suspension dialed in and fully adjustible, radial slicks are going to really highlight any shortcomings in the car when conditions are'nt "just right".

I ran nothing but Hoosier quick time pro 28x11.5's for 8yrs, street strip. Could get a full season racing every weekend on them plus street driving (mind you it was'nt even close to a daily driver) so they last like crazy and provide ridiculous on track performance no matter the conditions. I dont know how your raadials react, but with my hooisers I kneew if I ever saw smoke I screwed up my burnout by doing it too long...ESSPECIALLY on hot days, the last thing you want is a super heated tire on a super heated track surface.

You can also try lowering your staging rpm to see if that helps, tire pressure as mentioned above (you just need seat time on non race day to experiment going +/- psi from what your used to and how the car reacts), put the pride away and forget about trying to be as fast as you can be and pull a degree or two of timing out. On race day you do what's necessary to win, so if intentionally slowing down is what's needed, so be it.
 

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I run a fairly light 84GT mustang. It's an 11.50 bracket/index car. Lately I've been doing street eliminator (dot tire class) and running 275/50 MT drag radials. I did this simply because they're the only tires I had at the time that are legal to run. The car is stupidly consistent...but it's a foot brake class and my car hooks well. (1.55 60' on the foot brake) All that's missing is a good driver...but that's another story entirely.

It actually seems better on the radials than the slicks on the foot brake. The trans brake is a whole different story...

I do see quite a few of the points leaders running a drag radial. The current points leader is running a Hoosier drag radial.

Just a few observations...take it for what it's worth. Also, 15psi seems to be the magic number for me, I run the 275/50's on a 8.5" rim.
 

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I run a fairly light 84GT mustang. It's an 11.50 bracket/index car. Lately I've been doing street eliminator (dot tire class) and running 275/50 MT drag radials. I did this simply because they're the only tires I had at the time that are legal to run. The car is stupidly consistent...but it's a foot brake class and my car hooks well. (1.55 60' on the foot brake) All that's missing is a good driver...but that's another story entirely.

It actually seems better on the radials than the slicks on the foot brake. The trans brake is a whole different story...

I do see quite a few of the points leaders running a drag radial. The current points leader is running a Hoosier drag radial.

Just a few observations...take it for what it's worth. Also, 15psi seems to be the magic number for me, I run the 275/50's on a 8.5" rim.
My car is around 1800 pounds or so....got 90 pounds in trunk. Footbrake car leaving @ 1700. 60' are usually 1.80 on 2bbl. Usually roll thru water, run the motor up to 4k or so and carry it out till it chirps....love drive in , run, drive home part of radials....but I have been down to 5 or 6 cars probably 6 times this year, and the 60' will change 3or4 , and r/t will go out the window.....lol.
 
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