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In the shop with my Vette
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Gang. I was just curious as I'm in the middle of this cam swap and wanted to check the cam thrust while it's apart. (Just out of curosity) and I noticed it's fairly easy to make the timing cover flex outward. Should I replace the timing cover with a cast one? Is there a good timing option that isn't 250.00? (Looking at the comp cams 2 or 3 piece) I can't afford a belt drive right now. What are you guys running who are using timing chains?
 

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Take some steel and reinforce it.Not really into the steel washer look but
 

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Last thing you want if your running a chain is cover flex! Spend the extra 85.00 over the stamped chrome pos.Why anyone would spend good$$$ building a race motor then try to save 350.00 on timing and valve covers and oil pan using Chinese shit is beyond me.bottom line you put cheap shit in a race motor you will eventually pay 5x the savings in breakage or time spent replacing with the right shit.were all on a budget but pick where you save $$ on cheap stuff carefully...ask me how I know!!! Bought a cheap sfi damper once,the 150 I saved over the ati cost me plenty
 

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WE use the Cloyes cover with built in button when Jesel belt drive in not in the budgit. .Before the Cloyes was available we would support the factory cover with a steel strap welded to front of cover setting internal endplay at .005-..008..Bill C.
 

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In the shop with my Vette
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Discussion Starter #8
Last thing you want if your running a chain is cover flex! Spend the extra 85.00 over the stamped chrome pos.Why anyone would spend good$$$ building a race motor then try to save 350.00 on timing and valve covers and oil pan using Chinese shit is beyond me.bottom line you put cheap shit in a race motor you will eventually pay 5x the savings in breakage or time spent replacing with the right shit.were all on a budget but pick where you save $$ on cheap stuff carefully...ask me how I know!!! Bought a cheap sfi damper once,the 150 I saved over the ati cost me plenty
Who said anything about valve covers and oil pans? I'm running moroso fabricated covers, and a fabricated aluminum steffs pan. Ten years ago when I took my stuff to the builder this what it left with (didn't go back to that guy) I'm not an engine builder so I didn't know any better. And im just now discovering it and asking questions so there isn't an issue in the future. If buying a 300 dollar cover is my best option whilst running the chain that's what I'll do. I just wondered If it was necessary.
 

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T/S 368E
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.

We had that issue many many years ago when we were young & dumb and as posted, buy the correct part!!!
Many of us took our stock block, "racecar" engine and swapped the solid out for a roller.
Just reusing the stock cover and running the piss out of it.
I didn't know any better, when I saved up enough dough, I bought something.
There was no internet in those days, so you did what you did.

Nothing wrong with asking ??, even around here where you get one good answer for every 5 stupid.

Good luck, have fun, & as always, race safe!!!


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Hi guys, just a "tip" here (for future builders), at least on the early Chevies. Most BB's will accept a cam thrust plate setup for use with a "stepped-nose" cam. These are fairly simple to do, makes assembling simple, no cam end play/no buttons!

The early SB's, not set up for any thrust plates like the later units, use to pose a different issue for us here until we devised a fairly simple method to set up these early blocks to accept the later thrust plates! Took a bit of figuring but we finally pulled it off!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. This modification can't be done in on an installed unit, needs to be performed during all the other machining on the blocks while they are still bare! Here's a "link" (SBC Stepped Nose Cam in Early Block? - Chevelle Tech) to some good reading. We rarely use cam buttons any longer and you can use ANY timing cover, it's no longer part of the roller-cam equation! We've been selling a fair amount of tooling kits to do the mod!
 

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Who said anything about valve covers and oil pans? I'm running moroso fabricated covers, and a fabricated aluminum steffs pan. Ten years ago when I took my stuff to the builder this what it left with (didn't go back to that guy) I'm not an engine builder so I didn't know any better. And im just now discovering it and asking questions so there isn't an issue in the future. If buying a 300 dollar cover is my best option whilst running the chain that's what I'll do. I just wondered If it was necessary.
Hitch was not bagging on you,just stating those 3 things is were alot of guys go cheap and have issues...its a cloyes 2 pc an is about 150.00...nice piece if running a double roller and not a belt.
 

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In the shop with my Vette
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Discussion Starter #13
Hitch was not bagging on you,just stating those 3 things is were alot of guys go cheap and have issues...its a cloyes 2 pc an is about 150.00...nice piece if running a double roller and not a belt.
Gotcha. I'd get a belt I'd I could afford it. I just piled on a bunch of upgrades right before I realised this was happening.
 

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look into the milodon cover. It has the reinforcement Y plate welded into it to help from flexing. I used it for years with no problems with a solid roller sbc.
 

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I just took a piece of flat strap and used the bottom 2 bolts on the waterpump for mounts . Another hole in the middle or right in front of the cam and used a third bolt to set the clearance .
 

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The inexpensive one piece cast front covers are plenty rigid and not expensive. Just don't use one that says "Pro Comp Electronics" on the inside. You will have to play with the thrust bearing to get your cam thrust right but that's part of engine building. The Gen 5/6 thrust plates are cool but the cam cores are hard to come by and they require a different timing set. You already have your cam and timing set.
 

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Last no name cast aluminum BBC timing cover I tried to use, did not fit the oil pan radius at all. Gasket would have probably leaked. Like to use one but not worth a lot of money to me.
 

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The cloyes 2 piece is your best bet if running a chain.
 

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I use the Cloyes piece, I had some bad luck with the roller bearing it uses. I still use the cover but made a new plate for a cam sensor and now just use a solid aluminum spacer to keep the cam from walking. IMG_20200727_141344382.jpg
 
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