Yellow Bullet Forums banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,618 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
What are the benefits of pulsing vs steady state welding 14-20g stainless steel, what kind of settings work well? There was a video posted on one of the stainless header builders web site that said for 16g tubing to use 90 amps, 10% on the low and 30% on the high side. Pulse speed depends on how fast you want to travel.
 

·
Professional Troublemaker
Joined
·
14,446 Posts
Can't give you specific settings, but pulse is the way to go. Gives you greater margin of error and less "sugaring".
Posted via Mobile Device
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,554 Posts
I prefer steady and working the torch/filler. If there happens to be a gap or welding a thick flange to thin metal I will pulse the pedal. I almost always pulse aluminum as I feel it gives a better control of the perimeter of the weld puddle and I can weld alot faster than a steady pedal which is pretty much the opposite of how stainless behaves for me. I use a mid 90's syncrowave 250.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,254 Posts
I prefer steady and working the torch/filler. If there happens to be a gap or welding a thick flange to thin metal I will pulse the pedal. I almost always pulse aluminum as I feel it gives a better control of the perimeter of the weld puddle and I can weld alot faster than a steady pedal which is pretty much the opposite of how stainless behaves for me. I use a mid 90's syncrowave 250.
EXACTALLY!
This is how I do it and with the same machine!;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,618 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
When welding stainless, what is the longest bead you should try to shoot for? I've heard you want to do an inch, move to a different section than do another inch to keep the heat out of the tube.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,536 Posts
Thin stainless flat material, or tubing? If its flat you can't hit it with long beads or you'll warp the crap out of it. On stainless round tubing for exhaust I have no issues with warpage. If I really take my time on my fit ups, I've never had any issues just fusing both pieces with no filler material. No breakage issues ever.My 275 squarewave Lincoln does't have a pulser either



Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,618 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
When I weld SS tubing it seems like if I try to do lets say a 1.5" bead the weld loses its color but if I keep the stringers under an inch they retain the normal colors.
 

·
Mstr Of Useless Knowledge
Joined
·
3,446 Posts
On the thin stuff I use the pulse if I am not having to use filler rod... no gaps! I use a Miller Dynasty 200 at work and I have a older Syncrowave 250 at home..... Does anybody make a pulser for my old Syncrowave?.... I'm sure it won't do 400 hz, but I would like to have one or make one.... Sorry didn't mean to hijack...;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
498 Posts
I'll pulse with my foot. my machine will pulse automatically but I very rarely use it. Nothing wrong with it just never got used to it. May sound funny but I always weld to music. Something with a decent back beat. The rhythm helps. I weld alot of .065 SS tube and like to keep around 65 amp. I'll only get that hot at the start of a puddle. I use .043 filler rod. Remember SS hates heat. You want just barley enough heat to start puddle and keep moving. Fit up is crucial and fusing the two pieces together is ideal. Fuse tack in at least 3 places and weld away. You can tell if you have too much heat in your weld by the color of your weld. Gray is WAY too hot. Silver to Pink is Perfect. Blue is all right but getting close to gray. I use Solar Flux B to back my welds to prevent sugar. It's way cheaper than purging and lasts forever. Mix with alcohol till a light pancake batter consistency and spread on the inside of both pieces. If and when the alcohol dries out just add more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
498 Posts
On the thin stuff I use the pulse if I am not having to use filler rod... no gaps! I use a Miller Dynasty 200 at work and I have a older Syncrowave 250 at home..... Does anybody make a pulser for my old Syncrowave?.... I'm sure it won't do 400 hz, but I would like to have one or make one.... Sorry didn't mean to hijack...;)
How old is your S/W 250?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,554 Posts
On the thin stuff I use the pulse if I am not having to use filler rod... no gaps! I use a Miller Dynasty 200 at work and I have a older Syncrowave 250 at home..... Does anybody make a pulser for my old Syncrowave?.... I'm sure it won't do 400 hz, but I would like to have one or make one.... Sorry didn't mean to hijack...;)
Miller made an add on pulser box. They pop up on ebay quite often.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,024 Posts
I have a 175 squarewave and pulse with my foot also find that it welds similar to 4130 molly it does not melt away like mild steel does
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
I weld alot of .049, .065, and 8th. And on the 49 65 i set the Miller 300 dx on 30 to 35 amps and hardly ever use all of it. On the 49 i had a friend watch the machine while i was welding and he said i stayed right around 23 to 25 during welding. And all of the stuff was tested to 350psi for 20 minutes in water tank. i had to certify on what i was welding, 100% penetration etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
On the newer inverters you can set them to pulse really quickly, it's really slick for thin ss. I'll set the pps over 110, mess around with the peak and background amps, and then you can run it just like a typical bead. Also, the pulsing action helps the corrosion resistance, it "stirs" the puddle to push contaminants to the surface.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top