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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking to buy a few thick pump gaskets for a C4. Does anyone have a "supplier" for these? I called a few places and they wanted as high $20 bucks a pop.
 

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I machine the pump surface and use stock gaskets and have no problems. I have not seen the needs for the thick gaskets but maybe I don't get C4's to that level.


Hutch
 

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PA has them but dosn't give them away.

I need to look into getting some made. I am sure they can't be that bad to have made

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have three left. The supply has dried up so I am working on tooling up my own.
i called dynamic, they were $18 a piece, I was wanting to buy 5 or more, but can't justify the price. I might try some hylomar or something on a thin one.
 

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Hughes Performance has the thick C4 pump gaskets... talk to Pete.
 

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i called dynamic, they were $18 a piece, I was wanting to buy 5 or more, but can't justify the price. I might try some hylomar or something on a thin one.
Don't use any slime on them or they will fail for sure. Flat surfaces , go over them with a stone both sides and torque the bolts properly.


Hutch
 

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I've used 3M spray adhesive on the pump gaskets. Worked well
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Don't use any slime on them or they will fail for sure. Flat surfaces , go over them with a stone both sides and torque the bolts properly.


Hutch
I have been chatting with a few builders lately and they all seem to be using the thick gaskets. They looked at me like I had 6 heads when i told them i use the cheap, thin ones.
 

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If the surfaces are flat and the gasket remains compressed it should be fine. If you have a warped cylinder head and a shitty block surface that has high spots at each head bolt , do you put a thicker head gasket on it?

I must be an idiot with 7 heads.


Hutch
 

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I've never used a thick gasket either or sealer . Make sure as Hutch says , flat faces , good threads and flat around all the bolt holes too, torque to specs all good .
If you use guide studs to install the pump, have a look how much the gasket will move around. You'll see at the bottom pump ports that if the gasket is down the sealing edge is tiny. If the gasket is moved upwards slightly on the studs you get full sealing on the lower edge.
 

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Exactly as Gregaust said - it's not the thickness of the gasket, it's the small amount of gasket material around the ports. I've seen some that were much thicker in this area than others but have never been able to pin it down to a certain brand.
 

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While you are at it . . .. flat sand the tail housing gasket surface too. I've never seen one that is flat. Usually machine rough marks on the surface for the gaskeet-o to case sealing
 

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One customer used a copper gasket with Loctite 309 green color on his pump. The stuff midrated into ports with tails of stuff near half inch long. Very difficult to remove the pump
 

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The cast iron gaskets are better than the teflon! lol. Seriously, I have the gasket cadded up are there any beneficial changes that should be made to the hole sizes? Some bigger or smaller than stock?
 

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If anyone wants the gaskets made I have an offer.I can have my part timer make you the die for 150.00.And the gaskets would be approximately 3.00 each in quantities of 100.
 

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While you are at it . . .. flat sand the tail housing gasket surface too. I've never seen one that is flat. Usually machine rough marks on the surface for the gaskeet-o to case sealing
Excellent point, i dress all mine smooth too, stops that drip forming :cool:
 

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never ever had 1 leak,in 30+ YEARS
515 locktite cures all Pump sealing issues
thick grey pump gasket to thin oem type does not matter as well as ext/housing , excellent on output seal
flange area as well.
 
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