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www.PelechBrosRacing.com
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Discussion Starter #1
In your opinion, what is the baddest SBC head available for a maximum effort nitrous motor in the low to mid 400 inch range?
 

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Bar none that would be the Dart Little Chief. The only problem is that head requires a block, with the lifter bores specific to the little chief head. Which is not a big deal, as Dart is selling Iron Eagles with no lifter bores in them regularly, that do not have lifter 'bosses' in them, but solid rails that run front to back so the bore can be placed where you need it. That's kind of nice as I like to relocate the intake bores some anyhow on a wedge head.

From what I understand the Little Chief will soon be the revamped GM Splayed Valve head.... we should see something come of that in the next year or so with a GM part number on it... if that matters. I think something out of Austrailia is driving this. Not for sure though.

There's talk of 1100 horsepower with 400 inchs out there N/A. And that's not a Pro Stock effort either. 8)
 

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www.PelechBrosRacing.com
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Discussion Starter #3
OK.. Thanks...

And what would be the baddest block (Aluminum and Iron) on earth to put under them?
 

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For Iron Block that would be the iron eagle for a big inch deal(big is a relative term, but I'd say 380+, and for a smaller deal I'd go for the Aurora block)

For aluminum you have a variety of options but it should be solid.(for a dragrace deal)
 

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www.PelechBrosRacing.com
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Discussion Starter #5
What would a few of the better options be for the aluminum block? Which do you feel would be the absolute best?

By a quick guess, do you think a solid aluminum would still be lighter then a water Iron Eagle block?

Thanks...
 

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2091, dont waste your money on an aluminum block for nitrous motors. Cylinders move, bore cant hold shape, makes less power, main caps walk and is not worth the money. Im stuck with my block as its a 9.500 deck and dont want to spend $6,000 on a new shortblock and rods....
 

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www.PelechBrosRacing.com
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Discussion Starter #7
Do you think a solid aluminum small block would've done any better in the application or do you think even a solid aluminum sbc wouldn't hold up?
 

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Yeah get one of them CNC Billet blocks.. Great product, excellent service and very friendly people... :-D J/K..

I put some Devcon epoxy in mine and it worked very well. I used 3# per side and it filled it about 1/3.. I am going to add another 3#'s per side for this buildup...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So then you're thinking a solid aluminum block would do the job, right?
 

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Let me return to my original post.. Dont waste your money on aluminum blocks.. The only reason I still have mine is for money reasons.. Get a good Iron Eagal block as Chris said.. Besides they are 1/2 the price of aluminum blocks.. If you are dead stuck on an aluminum block, get a Brodix..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The only reason I would interested in a aluminum block is for the replaceable sleeves... If it wasn't for the sleeves - and maybe weight - I wouldn't bother.

I didn't know Iron Eagles were really that high-end. But then again, I'm not really knowledgable when comes to SBCs - or anything else for that matter...
 

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Got ya.. Brodix would get my pick.. Rodeck only makes a 9.025 deck, Donovan uses the same material type as Dart does.. Brodix uses a good grade aluminum, uses reinforcements in the valley area and you can order it full water jacket, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 or totally filled.. Rodney Lambert uses this block and they say they like it alot. Huber used the Dart junk like I did, then went to a Brodix then moved to a iron block.. The problems he was having is the same I was.. Main caps moving and blowing out main bearings.. The epoxy help this problem a lot for me and I was on the same mains all last year.. Just went thru a lot of pistons.. <<not nitrous related at all..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the good info! I'll have to look into the Iron Eagle. If they're cheap enough, maybe I won't worry about torching the cylinder wall to the point of scrapping the block... Just want to make sure that I wouldn't be throwing good money after bad.

Brodix or Iron Eagle? - Brodix or Iron Eagle? - Brodix or Iron Eagle?

Hmm....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah - but I thought iron blocks are never right again after being sleeved. Or are they?
 

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Not really sure.. Never had one re-sleeved before.. But the aluminum stuff take a while to settle into place after re-sleeving and needs about two good hones after some hard passes to settle...
 

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I know a guy who bought a small block Chevy bow tie block that was 4.135 bore, and sleeved all cylinders down and bored to 4.030, and I seen it go a tenth quicker then his standard 350 block, so I don't think sleeving it hurt him any.
 

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Bar none that would be the Dart Little Chief.

There's talk of 1100 horsepower with 400 inchs out there N/A. And that's not a Pro Stock effort either. 8)
very interesting !!

if that's the case then i would guess 1200+ with 450 ish CI is doable
 
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