Bar none that would be the Dart Little Chief. The only problem is that head requires a block, with the lifter bores specific to the little chief head. Which is not a big deal, as Dart is selling Iron Eagles with no lifter bores in them regularly, that do not have lifter 'bosses' in them, but solid rails that run front to back so the bore can be placed where you need it. That's kind of nice as I like to relocate the intake bores some anyhow on a wedge head.
From what I understand the Little Chief will soon be the revamped GM Splayed Valve head.... we should see something come of that in the next year or so with a GM part number on it... if that matters. I think something out of Austrailia is driving this. Not for sure though.
There's talk of 1100 horsepower with 400 inchs out there N/A. And that's not a Pro Stock effort either. 8)
2091, dont waste your money on an aluminum block for nitrous motors. Cylinders move, bore cant hold shape, makes less power, main caps walk and is not worth the money. Im stuck with my block as its a 9.500 deck and dont want to spend $6,000 on a new shortblock and rods....
Let me return to my original post.. Dont waste your money on aluminum blocks.. The only reason I still have mine is for money reasons.. Get a good Iron Eagal block as Chris said.. Besides they are 1/2 the price of aluminum blocks.. If you are dead stuck on an aluminum block, get a Brodix..
Got ya.. Brodix would get my pick.. Rodeck only makes a 9.025 deck, Donovan uses the same material type as Dart does.. Brodix uses a good grade aluminum, uses reinforcements in the valley area and you can order it full water jacket, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 or totally filled.. Rodney Lambert uses this block and they say they like it alot. Huber used the Dart junk like I did, then went to a Brodix then moved to a iron block.. The problems he was having is the same I was.. Main caps moving and blowing out main bearings.. The epoxy help this problem a lot for me and I was on the same mains all last year.. Just went thru a lot of pistons.. <<not nitrous related at all..
Thanks for the good info! I'll have to look into the Iron Eagle. If they're cheap enough, maybe I won't worry about torching the cylinder wall to the point of scrapping the block... Just want to make sure that I wouldn't be throwing good money after bad.
Brodix or Iron Eagle? - Brodix or Iron Eagle? - Brodix or Iron Eagle?
I know a guy who bought a small block Chevy bow tie block that was 4.135 bore, and sleeved all cylinders down and bored to 4.030, and I seen it go a tenth quicker then his standard 350 block, so I don't think sleeving it hurt him any.